bland

Beautiful!

Thanks for the tip. I downloaded that e-book from Tandy .

Thanks, it's kind of cool. It is a first for me so still trying to work some things out. It just looks a little off maybe it will look better when I get a buckle on it.

I'm working on a pattern for billets for a rough out belts and have some questions. How do I determine the correct length of billets to balance the belt. Is there a ratio between the billet end and the buckle end.

Many of the saddle manufacturers can put mule bars on trees. You can get Herman Oak single sides from several suppliers Weaver, Springfield Leather and many others. I believe you can get Wicket and Craig leather in single sides directly from them. Here is a past post with some of the saddle tree manufactures on it. It is an old post and prices have gone up but the tree makers in the post are still around. There are others as well.

What do you have left?

I say go for it. While, Bruce is probably correct it may tear like a postage stamp. Communication is key. Let the customer know that it is distinct possibility and watch for any signs of it. Have him contact you at the first signs Let him know you would be happy to make him a new fender, take a pattern of the fender and tooling. If he sees signs of it tearing he can give you a call and order the fenders. Gives you time to build the fenders and him riding his beloved saddle.

I own a couple of machines now and I have been quite happy with both. A 441 clone Cobra class 4 and a Juki 1508 NH. I had no experience with leather sewing machines when I got the Cobra and had a few struggles the learning curve was quite steep. I thought I could just make adjustments and go from heavy to light materials quickly and easily. Not so much the case. Thankfully for this forum and a good dealer with great customer service. I learned quickly that one machine does not do it all easily. I can do fine tuning but no radical changes anymore for me. The class 4 is set up for heavy work only now. I bought the Juki from a local sewing shop where I knew a little more of what I was looking for now that I had my heavy machine. I opted for a flatbed machine that would still sew some significant veg tan leather as well as some softer chap and upholstery leather when required. My advice is if you don't have a lot of experience working on or with industrial sewing machines it is worth getting one from a reputable dealer who will give great customer support and some expert advice. Who will know what needle size and thread size you will need. Ask a lot of questions, based on the kind of projects you will be doing (small backpacks, etc.), how much you will be using it, what features you want, shop space requirements and etc. You will probably have to pay $1500 to $5000 depending on your requirements. I believe your profile says you in California you might give Leather Machine Co a call and maybe visit with them as they are in Ontario, CA they have a variety of machines and if you are close by you may be able to save shipping costs. There are probably other industrial sewing machine shops in California as well that would be happy to help you. P.S. Local dealers might even have machines you can try out to see what you like best.

Do you have more pictures?

Makes sense now. Thanks for your help.

Found this clip in the oil sump of my Juki 1508NH while I was doing some maintenance. Can't really see where it goes. it is pretty light weight and about the size of a quarter. Does anyone know where it belongs on my machine? Thanks.

I just came into some older tools from a saddle maker. There were a few home made ones mostly bevelers, quite a few old craft tools and the ones in the photo. Just curious if someone knows who may have made them.

They look like leaf liners to me.

Very nice Ryan, the tote is incredible! It is far beyond my capabilities. For the sake of a critique there is one thing that draws my eye away from the beautiful carving. It is the lacing, especially at the corners as they are not covered well. Maybe you could go through the 3 holes around the corner twice using a flatter and wider lace. Another option is to use a double loop lacing or Mexican round braid as I think it would help set off your braided handles. Anyway, great work as always!!

It depends on the look you are going for. You can stitched them in and/or riveted them in. Line them or not. If you use saddle skirting don't line or use lighter leather and line. I like an overall thickness of 10 to 12 oz. Others may like a different weight.

I know I couldn't get a uniform thickness with a razor blade. Some shops near you may have a splitter and would be willing to do the job. The time and frustration you save yourself from will be worth it.

You might try posting this in the leather sewing machine forum. There are some very helpful people that follow that forum. Good luck. http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/50-leather-sewing-machines/

My 2 cents-- dye the outside border where your stitching goes resist the rest and antique with Fiebing's paste.

Well, I finished this quite a long time ago but never got around posting what I came up with. I was not real happy with the final product. So, it is a bucket with a retention strap.

That is quite a project for a first in 40 years.

Thanks to all!

This is all good input thanks to all. This won't be a daily carry. It was his brother''s that past recently. Probably 99% of the time it will remain in the case. More than anything it just needs to be black and hold the gun. Dwight, thanks for your input, I really like making it a bucket to put it in. Probably with a thumb break. I like the idea of a closed toe but have never done one. Are you talking about a plug in the bottom of the holster with a drain hole in it? Do you just box stitch it in with 90 degree edges or 45? If you have any pictures of ones you have done that would be appreciated. ChiefJason, I have been thinking about an avenger style or just a belt tunnel on the back as not to put too much pressure on the accessories. On this one I don't think cost is much of a concern. Bolt, I think I will build up a blue gun with some PVC or craft sticks to form it but not be too concerned with getting a lot of definition on this one. Since it is a Glock I can probably just tape a block of wood to the front of the blue gun. Jeff, like I said not a daily carry so, I will not be using Kydex. I will however use some of your pattern making instructions and yes Simmons is a better marketer than musician. I had an acquaintance go on a KISS cruise this year with all his family. I didn't even know there was such a thing. Oh, well. Have you ever made a pattern for something like this? Thanks and keep the ideas coming!

I need some help with some design ideas for this gun. It is a modified Glock 19.

Very nice!!

So these are the guns left? Not too interested in all the mags but for the right price I would take them. What is your best lot price? 1- S&W Shield 1- S&W M&P Compact 1 - Glock 19 1- Glock 26 1- Springfield XD Compact 1- Sig 238 1- Ruger LCP 1- S&W J Frame 2- Glock19 Mags 2- Glock 26 Mags 2- S&W Shield Mags 1 Ruger LCP Mag