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That is a pretty broad subject and wide open to different possibilities. There is a lot of variety in the horse tack arena. Simple to fancy. Western or English. The list goes on and on. There are several videos out there to make all manner of tack. Tandy has some free patterns in their leathercraft library and probably some videos. Springfield leather has some patterns and videos... I'm not sure if I have seen a free video out there that was truly a step by step. There may be a tutorial on this site so search and find something you like. Search the web or this site for different items. Visit a saddle maker. Make something you need. One of the first things I made was a simple headstall for a snaffle bit set up when I was out of a job and out of money. Still ride with it on occasion many years later. Oh nostalgia. Back to your question, take your list of what you want to make and decide what you want to make first. If that is a split ear headstall, search that subject or if it is a set of buckaroo spur straps search that. Come back here often and ask more questions. There is a lot of good information here. Good luck.

I kind of have a mixed bag of oblong punches Craft tool, Osborne, Weaver and some others I'm not sure where from. The Weaver Master Tools punches are my favorite they come clean, polished and sharp right out of the box. The Osborne punches are also very good and a little cheaper but don't have as fine as finish. The Craft tools cut but require a little sharpening and polishing but are also a little cheaper than the Osborne and Weaver. I think they all have their place.

There are a lot of makers that do just what you are talking about. There is some risk to it. I oil and use Skidmore's cream for the final finish.

Most of the time around sharp turns I use the hand wheel and go one stitch at a time.

Basket stamping is a little daunting. Sometimes it doesn't run exactly straight. I'm not sure how much you are doing on your saddle or how you are laying it out. If you are just doing the corners you can lay it out on a line. You can also run splits so you don't get so far off. Dale Moore taught me this technique and it worked out for me pretty well. I ran each section in two parts. It is one of my first saddles so it isn't perfect but it rides really good.

Probably too late but you shouldn't need to back saddle skirting to tool it. I'm guessing this was a question about your mule saddle.

https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/30-1549/100-mohair-cording/pr_43725 https://www.hitchingpostsupply.com/collections/mohair

There are several different factors or a combination of factors. What kind of temper does the leather have? Where on the hide was the leather cut? Is it belly, shoulder, butt, back..? Are you using too much pressure? Did you use an edge beveller? Was it too wet? Have you tried using some saddle soap? Gum Tragacanth, Tokenole or other slicking agents... My impression from the pictures is that the leather may be soft temper, not edged beveled and you are using too much pressure. I attached a thread from a long time ago. If you are having trouble with burnishing your edges it is a great guide. Check this thread from 2009.

Duane Watts makes a swivel knife that the blade swivels. Similar idea but it is for leather carving.

Looking for some quality flat lacing chisels for buck stitching a belt. I have a smaller set but.. I have checked all the usual suspects and they either don't have that size or they are out of stock.

Doug Krause in California makes horsehair macates . They sale his macates at https://www.ricottisaddle.com/. I don't know if he takes students or has books or videos. I'm sure there are some other makers in the California, Oregon, Nevada area of the US.

Weaver Leather caries them. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/01144/1144-collar-fastener-set/pr_55080

I just saw this post. Did you get the help you needed? I'll just bump you post to the top again. What style are you looking to make? I know Dwight posted a buckaroo pattern on here a while back.

I have a Cobra Class 4 and a Juki 1508 NH. Both great machines but to tell you the truth I prefer to sew on the Cobra. I can sew with 207, 277 and 346 thread with a needle change and a little adjustment but if I try to go down to 138 on it it requires significant adjustments to keep the stiches consistent. The most beneficial attachment for me is the roller guide.

Saturate the foam but doesn't need to have liquid in the pan. Don't forget the top there is probably a couple spots there. The needle bar and presser foot bar probably have some felt around them that could use oil.

What Juki machine are you using? That would help. I have a 1508 NH and I use system 190. Some 1508 machines use 135 x 17.

I wanted to get it set up this weekend when I had some time off. I got it all set up it was pretty straight forward. Then my wife (she is a finder) found my instructions. Thanks Wiz!

I moved and packed my machine up several months ago and in the move I can't find the set-up instructions for my Cobra Class 4. I can probably figure it out but it would be helpful to have the sheet just in case. Thanks in advance

Very nice!

Very nice! What leather did you use?

Check this out from an older post.

What did you use for a resist? How long ago did you apply the antique? What antique did you use? Sometimes you can use the "resist" if you use Resolene or Tan Kote to clean some of it off won't pull it all off but it can help.

Looking at that knife, I wouldn't say it just looks like you know what you are doing. You know what you are doing. Looks like maybe two files a round file and triangle file?

Very nice!!! What did you do on the spine? Very cool!

I just received a suspended edge guide for my Juki 1508 NH 5 minutes before I saw your post. I ordered it on Amazon for $30. Quality looks pretty good. I'll let you know once I attach it an try it out later this afternoon.