bland

I think it depends on the application. PVA glue can extend your working time. Generally once you stick rubberized contact cement you are committed. You can apply PVA glue to wet leather. Contact cement doesn't stick to wet leather very well. You can wet a piece after applying contact cement and it will stick pretty well. I doesn't create voids in edges when slicking them. Sometimes contact cement will pull out on the edges when you rub them. PVA glue needs longer curing time. Contact cement has a stronger initial bond. I use both at times but usually turn to the rubberized contact cement 85-90% of the time.

A double shoulder would more than likely work. Where are you located? There may be local shops that can help you.

What design are you using? Some designs lend themselves to lining better tan others and what type of lining you use. Do you want a drop in lining? Are you using a leather lining or fabric lining?

With the items you have listed you probably looking for more of a medium size machine. I would suggest a cylinder arm machine. Lots of them out there. Here are just a few cylinder arm machines. Juki 1341, Yamata 1341, Cobra class 26, Techsew 2600, Cowboy 227, Techsew 2750, Consew 287 and many more. That said I have been very happy with my Cobra class 4 but it does not do lighter weights as well. I have a flatbed Juki 1508NH that sews lighter leathers better but it is still a heavy duty machine. I probably should look at getting a medium sized machine.

Unfortunately that looks too far gone to ever be a serviceable satchel again. Maybe clean it up as a conversation piece. I think somebody could pattern it and make a replica. I don't think there are even any salvageable panels. Cool bag though.

I have used some acrylic paint and Tan Kote to set off a dark dyed project. I kind of like the metallic gold and silver. I have also used acrylic paint like an antique on kids belts to add color to the tooling. It is kind of a mess.

After a move it is fun to get your shop set back up! Your radio strap looks good!

There are all manner of border stamps. Every vendor has a wide variety. Here are just few examples. https://www.barrykingtools.com/borders.htm https://tandyleather.com/search?type=article%2Cpage%2Cproduct&q=border*+stamps* https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/cp_/shop-now/hand-tools/stamping-carving/stamps

I cut the top to size and over cut the liner and trim on belts and straps.

Dwight the angle depends on the dimensions of the stamp. You can see in the first photo there is maybe a 5 degree difference between these two stamps. You can run them a couple different ways. One being along a straight line, legs resting on the line. The other is more of a vertical run along the edge of the panel. Think more like arrowheads on a belt. Figure out your angle and use it all the way up the first side then run the second all the way up as well, then the third... As far as the camouflage tool you can run it with the legs on the line or you can run the arc on the line and get a little different look.

Have you checked some of the site sponsors? There are probably others. https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread.html https://leathermachineco.com/product/1oz-spools-premium-thread-all-colors/

You might check with some re-enactment makers to see where they get their trees. Here is one site, I'm sure there are others as well. http://www.borderstatesleatherworks.com/ Bowden Saddle Tree list a McClellan tree on their 2019 price list as a specialty tree. https://saddletree.com/p/price-list

I have been happy with the Barry King basket stamps. There are quite a few different designs, styles and sizes.

Weaver also has a stainless steel 4 inch buckle but it is only one tongue. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/00100-ss-4/100-buckle-one-tongue/pr_63767 Do they have to be double tongued? I have made both some people really like the single tongue. Now that I see the stainless buckles I may have to order some.

Weaver Leather has some. It has also been discussed here before. maybe there is a nugget to help you find the ones you are looking for. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/00100-np-2-4/100-buckle-two-tongue/pr_481

Very nice!

I would not say that I have mastered the round knife. It was a little scary to use at first. I'd use it for a while and then put it away for a while. Probably for the last 6 months I use it most of the time. Making long parallel cuts would be a challenge. I still generally use a strap cutter or draw gauge depending on the leather thickness for belts and longer straps and I usually cut multiple at a time. I have used my round knifes to get the initial straight edge on a side or double shoulder. I have used it for shorter straps for headstall and billets for bag closures. Primarily the longer straight cuts are on bag bodies and projects like that. Being able to use one knife during cutout is definitely a time saver.

Learning to use a round knife changed my life. Very versatile. Tight curves, long straight cuts without a straight edge, skiving, trimming... I have an old Midas Leather round knife I inherited and a Master Tool from Weaver. I have been happy with both.

Very nice Chuck!

My cutting table is on wheels so I can push it up against the wall when I'm cutting smaller stuff. Put shelfs or cabinets everywhere. Never enough storage.

That is a pretty broad subject and wide open to different possibilities. There is a lot of variety in the horse tack arena. Simple to fancy. Western or English. The list goes on and on. There are several videos out there to make all manner of tack. Tandy has some free patterns in their leathercraft library and probably some videos. Springfield leather has some patterns and videos... I'm not sure if I have seen a free video out there that was truly a step by step. There may be a tutorial on this site so search and find something you like. Search the web or this site for different items. Visit a saddle maker. Make something you need. One of the first things I made was a simple headstall for a snaffle bit set up when I was out of a job and out of money. Still ride with it on occasion many years later. Oh nostalgia. Back to your question, take your list of what you want to make and decide what you want to make first. If that is a split ear headstall, search that subject or if it is a set of buckaroo spur straps search that. Come back here often and ask more questions. There is a lot of good information here. Good luck.

I kind of have a mixed bag of oblong punches Craft tool, Osborne, Weaver and some others I'm not sure where from. The Weaver Master Tools punches are my favorite they come clean, polished and sharp right out of the box. The Osborne punches are also very good and a little cheaper but don't have as fine as finish. The Craft tools cut but require a little sharpening and polishing but are also a little cheaper than the Osborne and Weaver. I think they all have their place.

There are a lot of makers that do just what you are talking about. There is some risk to it. I oil and use Skidmore's cream for the final finish.

Most of the time around sharp turns I use the hand wheel and go one stitch at a time.

Basket stamping is a little daunting. Sometimes it doesn't run exactly straight. I'm not sure how much you are doing on your saddle or how you are laying it out. If you are just doing the corners you can lay it out on a line. You can also run splits so you don't get so far off. Dale Moore taught me this technique and it worked out for me pretty well. I ran each section in two parts. It is one of my first saddles so it isn't perfect but it rides really good.