gottaknow

Nicely done!

In most cases, whatever the size needle your machine was set to, that's ideal. However, you can usually go up a size and down a size without issue, sometimes more. If you have a 20, see how it acts. If it's ok, try an 18. If you reset your hook, pick the needle size you want to use the most. On that machine, I'd set it to an 18 which would allow you to use a 16 and a 20 without issue. Your machine is fairly easy to move the hook closer if you need to. You can download a manual from http://www.consew.com/Resources/ Regards, Eric

If the hook in your machine is set to sew with a size 22 needle, going down to a size 16 will place the hook too far away from the needle. The hook will need to be moved closer to the needle and re-timed. Your hook is simply missing the loop that forms when your needle rises. Regards, Eric

I assume it's still in recovery. He'll send someone to post an update. I crack myself up. Regards, Eric

This happens at least a couple times a week in the factory. Sucks when it's a double needle and you have two jams to deal with. Regards, Eric

That is the latch opener. Different companies call it different things, but to me, it's the latch opener. The hook tip in blue doesn't usually bend. They are case hardened and will break instead of bending. It looks like you'll have to remove the basket from the hook to clear that thread jam which is likely what broke your latch opener Regards, Eric

The picture isn't a 153, but I describe the theory of the latch opener and how to set it. The process is the same. I copied this from a previous post of mine. The latch opener adjustment is one of the most overlooked and important settings on a vertical hook machine. It's function is to hold the bobbin basket open just wide enough to create a clear path for the thread between the tab on the basket, and the back of the "notch" in the throat plate. It's easy to check, and easy to set. Get a couple ply of whatever you're sewing on and sew down a bit on the right edge. That will allow you to slide the cover open, turn the machine over by hand and watch your latch opener. Turn the handwheel slowly in the operating direction and watch the needle thread. After the hook picks it up, it will carry it over the top of the basket where your bobbin is. The latch opener should contact the basket and rotate it slightly ccw, allowing the thread to cleanly pass. If not, loosen the screw and adjust it just enough for the thread to clear. If you have it open too much, you'll hit the front side of the throat plate notch with the tab on the basket. An easy check when finished is to turn it until it's moved the basket as far as it will go ccw, then push the basket by hand ccw. There should be a slight gap. I've attached a pic below so you can see it. Regards, Eric

Blanket stitch machines are cool. I have a couple of them in storage. They are really straight forward to work on. They also come configured in a raised version, more of a platform, not a cylinder. Regards, Eric

I have all the original 153 manuals, and for a novice they are skimpy as you say. For some reason, Singer put more details for certain models. My 300W manuals are excellent, so are the 269 bartack machines. I've determined over the years that Singers manuals for lock stitch machines are really basic, and weren't written for beginners as they skip over a lot of information. I guess they assumed that mechanics were familiar enough with lock stitch machines they didn't go into a lot of detail. For the chainstitc class, the manuals are more detailed. The basics for setting all lock stitch machines are pretty common from machine to machine, so I think they assumed a lot. They weren't really written for hobbyists. Regards, Eric

There's only one thing I know to be fact in sewing, and that is there are no absolutes, but lots of grey areas. I do tend to paint with a very broad brush when I describe things on the forum here. The reason is because I've been head mechanic in factories with 350 operators where I had 4 mechanics working for me and I had to keep them all on the same page. Because factories sew at high speed, things have to be set very precise. I've seen machines in upholstery shops set so poorly I was amazed they worked. My adjustment techniques and troubleshooting methods are time tested for the masses. I know that if all my machines are set to position after the loop has been picked up. I have less problems. If I were perfect, and my machines were perfect, I wouldn't have a job. There are so many variables with industrial machines, I change opinions on things all the time. About the time I think I have something figured out, it proves me wrong. I've been a mechanic for 36 years and there are days in a factory I feel like it's my first day. I am always in learning mode and have learned a ton here on the forum. Back in the days of big factories, I would adjust/repair about 75 machines a day. No wonder I have grey hair. Regards, Eric

Here's my bobbin case repair stash for horizontal bobbin cases. The tool for straightening bent cases is shown there. I have several, but I think this one's from the 70's and was sold by Singer. There are adjustment screws in the antique Singer needle box in an attempt to contain them. Regards, Eric

Great point. Also place one drop of oil on the paper. Helps a lot. Now before everyone stuffs their bobbin cases, you have to check that the bobbin tension is the same with whatever you insert. Too thick and your bobbin tension will get too tight. Also, aluminum bobbins backlash less than steel, simply from the weight. Regards, Eric

Ok. You guys are over complicating this issue. On machines with needle positioning, the needle should stop down after the hook has picked up the loop. If your check spring is set correctly, it will take care of any slight variations in needle thread slack while making the turn. Wiz is always stressing how important the check spring travel and tension are. The heavier the leather and thread, the more important. When sewing commences, your next subsequent loop will be formed no matter how much twisting and repositioning of the work while turning. It also important not to move the handwheel during the turning process. On machines without needle positioning, turn the needle all the way down and then up far enough to accomplish loop formation and the hook picking up the loop. I train operators to note the position of the take up lever rather than the position of the needle since it's easier to visually see it. Horizontal and vertical hook orientation makes no difference. Regards, Eric

That black thingy is to prevent backlash. Backlash occurs when you stop sewing suddenly and the momentum of the bobbin unwinds thread inside the bobbin case. The little arms press against the bobbin acting like a brake for the bobbin. High speed garment machines must have that operational or you have a continual mess. As for your bent bobbin case, find a socket that fits closely to the inside diameter of the bobbin case and simply use a small ball peen hammer to straighten the case. No real need to replace it unless it's cracked. This happens everyday in the factory. I have a special insert made for doing this, but a socket works fine. Regards, Eric

We bought 20 of the Consew 327RB1's back in 1984. 2 needle split needle bars. I STILL have a few left in service, and trust me, we ran them hard, including a 10 year contract making Levi 501's, which can kill the best of machines. Regards, Eric

Yeah, both are fine. The cheap ones are ok for hobbyist use for sure, if they get wobbly you can reinforce them. Factory tables take a lot of abuse mainly from moving them around to accommodate style changes and get raised and lowered to accommodate operators of different heights. Most hobbyists or small business treat their tables a lot better than the chaos in a factory. Regards, Eric

I like both table styles depending on the machine. Singer made one of the most durable k tables I've ever seen. They are heavy duty, easy to adjust and the laminate near bullet proof. I have many still being used 40 hours a week since the 60's and 70's. Union Special made a really decent t stand every bit as sturdy as the singers. They are a bit harder to adjust. I have a lot of new machines that I ordered with the Kessler t stand. it's on wheels and uses a hand crank to adjust the height. We can raise them high enough for the operator to stand up and sew, which some prefer. My favorite is the t stand that GoreTex uses on their seam sealers. It has powered raise and lower and the machine tilts front and back. Regards, Eric

It looks to me like on your after market outer foot,it's too short. It needs to have at least one of the sides at least even with the needle. If not, your material will move up with the needle rise and not set your stitch properly. Regards, Eric

Unscrew the spindle and inspect the large threads where the spindle turns. If there's a broken thread,you won't be able to adjust your stitch length. There is a way to get around this problem which I'll post some pictures to show you. I have several of these machines. Regards, Eric

Thanks Bob, I forgot about the two set screws, one on top of the other. These have to be loose to make the adjustment. If there's a broken thread where the spindle sits, you can't adjust the stitch length as it was designed. More coffee! Regards, Eric

This is a common problem with the 153's. I blame a poor design and people forcing it. Anyway, you can still adjust the stitch length under the cover just to the left of the handwheel. There are two hex head bolts on a flange that you simply loosen and the two flanges move separate from the other. When the bolts are loosened slightly, you can rotate the two flanges independent from the other. Move it, thighten them back up and then test. If the stitches get smaller, move it the other direction. Don't take the small bolts all the way out. I have a picture of this somewhere, and I'll attach it to this post if I can find it. Regards, Eric

I've heard that about every brand out there. It all depends on who you talk to and what they want to sell. The newer Consews I've worked on at upholstery shops are fine. Seiko has even made some models of Consews in the past, not sure about now. As Bob said, if a machine is properly adjusted and maintained, just about any brand can perform well. Regards, Eric

The GB quality hasn't changed. They did start relabeling some of them. The most common needle in apparel is the 135x7. They removed it off their label for some reason. I had to call my supplier and make sure something wasn't messed up. They actually still have the old Singer 1955 on the label though. I use their titanium needles in my felling machines. I use Schmetz when I have to and they're fine for my lockstitch machines, but I definitely prefer GB on my chain stitch and bartackers. My Reece 101's are timed to the GB and will break the Schmetz. Scarf is a different shape. Regards, Eric

Cool idea!

That thought actually crossed my mind. A reasonable mark-up on small quantities is to be expected. I don't consider 300%-500% mark-up reasonable. Regards, Eric