gottaknow

Those are for making simple folded handles. You insert your strap, let's say it's 10" long. If you want the folded part 5" long, you start sewing 2 1/2" from the end you inserted, then stop sewing after 5". You pull the rest out of the folder and then you can sew the unfolded ends down to the bag or whatever. We use them in our luggage factory. Regards, Eric

You first have to choose the correct needle class for the machine you have. Those are the numbers that are shown in your chart. Then, there are needle sizes available in each of those needle classes that you choose based on what you're sewing and how thick your material is as well as the thread you're using. The sizes are consistent with each needle class. For example. 125/20 is the same size needle. The 125 is the metric size, the 20 is the Singer designation. Union Special sizes take it a step farther. They call a size 20 needle .049. Most needles are labeled omitting the Union Special size. A needle with the size designation 110/18 is smaller than the 125/20 needle. Long story short, first determine what needle class fits your particular machine, then choose the size base on what you're sewing. That chart is deceiving because a heavy duty zig zag or straight stitch machine may use either 135x7 or 135x17. In turn, needle class 128 fits not only many coverstitch models, it also fits multi-needle chainstitch machines, as does needle class 108 and 113. Class 108 also fits a Union Special overlock machine. You have to know what particular needle class your model of machine requires. Regards, Eric

It can, but it's not that easy. It would be better to find a 42 stitch machine to start with. Regards, Eric

As a side note, I use cobalt drill bits with a 135 degree tip on cast iron. I always use cutting oil as well. When I'm using my cordless, I take it off the drill setting and use the clutch set on a fairly low setting. It prevents broken bits. When tapping, I cut no more than two threads before backing the tap out to clean it. I've broken bits for sure. Usually they become a permanent part of the machine. Honestly, I'm really opinionated when it comes to metal working as it relates to sewing machines. I was fortunate to have two old timers train me. You'll find no JB Weld in my factory. I did use it during my years as a locksmith and safe technician though. Regards, Eric.

Universal Sewing Supply carries some off the shelf folders. Most of my felling folders are made by folder making companies like Atlanta Attachmnet or Tennessee Attachment. Regards, Eric

The 1800 series were produced in the 80's and 90's, not 8 months ago for sure. Looks to be in good shape though. Just not real useful for leather work. Regards, Eric

My favorite packing material is fabric inside a wood crate. I do of course have an endless supply of 26oz..wool which is ideal. As for the broken cast iron, I've been brazing it for almost 40 years. The mistake most people make is trying to do a continuous seam with lots of heat and a large tip, (like a number 2). I use a number 0 tip concentrating on strategic points along the break. I cut a V along the fracture as well as short ones across the break. I also braze cast using less oxygen than you would for brazing steel. Usually 5psi on the acetylene and 7psi on the oxygen. That way you don't blow the molten rod out of the puddle. As soon as it flows remove the heat and let it cool. Regards, Eric

The Juki 1800 series are good tackers. A 28 stitch machine is good up to 1/2" long max, 3/8" long is ideal. That's for woven fabric. Jeans belt loops are set with a 28 stitch machine. A 42 stitch is good for 1/2" to 7/8" length. I have a 1852 with a button tacker cam that's a workhorse. I'm also still using 2 Juki 900 series, and a 1900 series pattern tacker. Juki's only weakness on their cam driven tackers is the pin that holds the roller in the main cam groove is prone to breaking. Quick fix for me, not for novice mechanics. It will handle up to T90 bonded on the needle. I always use a smaller thread for the bobbin. Makes a much nicer looking tack. I have used mine for tacking leather neck loops on jackets without issue. 135x16 needle size 100/16. That's with T60 poly/cotton thread. Regards, Eric

I'm with Bob. If it were mine, I'd braze it in a few spots and call it good. Regards, Eric

I love the smell of burnt windings in the morning... Actually, I have several vintage Singer 220 3 phase motors still in service. Best sewing machine motors ever built. I keep track of their condition with an amp probe. They all however have new wire from the motor leads through the fuse box and up to the feed rail drops. I trust the windings in the new Chinese motors much less than the older Singer and Amco motors. Regards, Eric

Universal Sewing Supply sells that same part for around $13. Don't get ripped off. It's a common part. Regards, Eric

Nylon thread cuts stainless, case hardened steel, anything it rubs against. In a home or hobby machine, you can replace it with about anything and it will last a long time. In a factory, I stock replacement eyelets for everything along the thread path. It's always amazes me what even poly/cotton thread will cut through. For years, Reece used porcelain eyelets on many of their automatic machines. It lasts a very long time and stays smooth throughout it's life. Regards, Eric

I'm interested in not giving any advice on hook and awl machines. I've worked on good ones and horrible ones (usually after being worked on by someone else). Wiz's advice was spot on. I've always thought a dead one would make a great mailbox post. Regards, Eric

Make sure the throats plate is on with the small tab engaged. If it still won't rotate, you've likely still have thread under your bobbin basket and you'll need to take it apart to clean it out. Have fun! Regards, Eric

You likely have thread jammed between your hook and the bobbin basket. You'll need a short, small screwdriver to remove the gib screws (they are located on a flat piece as you look down on the hook) with that flat ring loose or removed, you can clean out the jam. Oil it and make sure you secure the tab on the basket into the notch of the throat plate. On that machine, you need to hold your threads when you start sewing. Have fun! Regards, Eric

We are all waiting Wiz. Regards, Eric

As split bar machines age, the mechanism that causes the bars to raise and sew independently are usually very small ball bearings inside a fixed needle bar set up. After time and pounding through hard materials, the bar/s that are in the sew position will "jump up" and then back down by themselves, leaving multiple skips. Split bars can work fine for many years on thinner materials, not so much on thicker. The reason yours are missing parts for the walking mechanism is that this failure could have occurred and to save the machine it was converted to sew lighter material. There's really no reason to destroy a double needle with a split bar IF it's working correctly. Regards, Eric

It's a good candidate for a boat anchor. I would move on. Split needle bar machines are flawed even when brand new. Regards, Eric

Probably not too well. The Reece S2 will only do rectangular buttonholes. Its big brother the Reece 101 or 104 will do keyhole button holes. Regards, Eric

Nice work. Looks great! Regards, Eric

Put the throat plate back on. Making sure the tab on the bobbin case is retained by the notch in the throat plate Regards, Eric

The titanium needles are great. I use them on all my bartacks, memory stitchers, button hole and button tackers, as well as my heavy chainstitch felling machines. Best advance in needle technology since I've been working on machines. I've never checked Wiz, but are they widely available in the common leather points? Regards, Eric

I seem to recall that Groz Beckert took over the production and marketing for Torrington in the early 80's. I'm not sure how long they kept the brand name alive, but I don't think it took them long to figure out the black coating was a waste of time. At that time, I was head mechanic with 350 operators. Stocking duplicate needles was a huge expense, so I just found the best way to keep needles cooler without them, which to this day is needle coolers with Silicone thread dip. The air is the most effective. Needles get hot at high speed and the heat increases with each piece sewn. Especially long seams with little lag time between pieces. If an operator is overlocking an underarm and sideseam on a jacket and stops to line up the underarm seam, the hot needles are sitting against the thread for a time and when sewing starts, the thread snaps. Silicone won't stop this, or coated needles. Air will keep the needles cool while they're just sitting there. Keep in mind, textile thread sizes rarely exceed T70. I've seen upholstery machines damage T135 without breaking it, but cause a small melted area. For those that sew faster, you may not know you're damaging your bonded threads unless you test sew as fast and as long as you would normally. Sew for a bit, feel your needle for heat. If it's too hot to touch, you're likely damaging your thread. You can see or feel a melted little blob with your fingers. For those that can count your stitches as you sew....never mind. Regards, Eric

I still have a ton of KoolTorr needles, mainly from the 80's. We used them to reduce needle heat mainly on high speed overlock machines. I found over many years of using them that they made little difference. They fell out of popularity simply because guys like me quit spending the extra money on them when air coolers and silicone thread dip worked way better. The other issue with them is that the texture of the needle interfered with the thread flow through the needle eye. This affected the loop formation. On needle rise, the coated needles would make the loop too big. In order to make the loop smaller, you had to tighten the tension, actually making thread breakage worse. The advent of the titanium needles (which actually do reduce needle heat), makes the coated needles useless. Schmetz made a teflon coated needle that was green in color. I still have some of those. They were a little better than the KoolTorr, but not much. I get to deal with needle heat every day, using several methods to control it. Needle heat will separate the cheap thread from more expensive thread as well. Regards, Eric

Technically it could be done, but a regular speed reducer would be much simpler. Regards, Eric