gottaknow

If the machine is sewing ok for you, heel back on the pedal to apply the brake whenever you stop. This is a basic function of a clutch motor. I have a Juki LU 562 that does the same thing. Not really worth my time to find exactly why, but I've seen this on several machines over the years. The large cam that drives the needle bar will sometimes just rotate down due to its weight. Especially on a machine that is well worn and well lubricated. If your brake is set correctly, you should be able to stop the rotation of the machine. When I use a clutch, I always heel back to stop the machine. If the machine wants to creep a bit, it simply can't. Even if you've got some bent bars, if the machine is sewing ok, no worries. Regards, Eric

Are you using a clutch motor or a servo? Regards, Eric

Backlashing in the bobbin case is a fact of life. Over the years, there have been many remedies, some that work better than others. If you're sewing a long run at higher speed, simply slowing down a bit before you stop will allow the backlash to be taken up before stopping. The original backlash prevention for Singers was a very thin piece of fabric inserted underneath the bobbin and one drop of oil applied to this as needed. Cohesion did a very nice job of stopping the backlash. I still do this in the factory for older machines that don't have a backlash device in the case. The new (and older Juki's) use a spring device that applies friction to the bobbin. Their double needles use a coiled spring that pushes out against the bobbin to stop backlash. If you choose the fabric method, just make sure that it's thin enough not to increase the tension after inserted. Trust me, high speed garment machines will backlash 12" or so if no steps are taken at all. A huge mess ensues. Even a single drop of oil under the bobbin will decrease backlash. I also use aluminum bobbins whenever possible. The difference in weight makes a real difference. Regards, Eric

In the factory we simply rewind it onto a new cone with a really handy rewinding machine. It does 4 cones at once. Regards, Eric

I zoomed in and it appears to have a walking foot. Buyer beware on one from a private party. For lots of reasons. Regards, Eric

The problem with an electronic unit, is you have no idea what shape the drive unit is in. For my tired Brother, it will do two layers of heavy webbing, but not three. Two years ago it would do three. Even with testing, if it's been in a factory, they are run 40 hours a week. That's a lot of cycles on a ten year old machine. My Brother 311 is new, and all we sew on it is labels on one layer of wool. Find one like that and you'd be ok. My 438 has spent most of its life doing heavy webbing on tactical gear. You just don't know what you're going to get. Regards, Eric

Nice Uwe! We use Kessler tables which are height adjustable with a crank handle since operators come in all sizes. We also have some set for stand up operation. They are on wheels as well since we rearrange the factory quite often. Your design does resemble the Kessler a bit. Well done. Regards, Eric

I have several pattern tackers. The most user friendly are the Brother 438 series. I also have the Juki 1900 series which are very reliable. I'm buying 4 new Jukis this year, but I haven't seen them yet. I also have some now antique Mitsubishi's (1980's) that still work fine, but getting new pattern chips programmed is an issue. We set all of our labels with a new Brother pattern tacker which we can program ourselves. Each label size requires a different clamp setup which are about $700 each, and we have 6 different labels. The older Brother 438 has a very tired servo that doesn't like webbing very much, and goes into error. It will do lighter stuff all day. Buyer beware on any used electronic tacker. Regards, Eric

I keep a couple of 269's around if we need some additional production. They can humble a lot of good mechanics. I'm old, so the first factory I worked in had about 15 of them. I don't mind working on them, better than the 2 Reece PWX42 pocket welt machines. I do like the simple design of the 68/69's. We use several in or luggage factory. I totally agree with Gregg on not buying a 269. Regards, Eric

Wow. I haven't seen a US 160-20 for 30 years. Most were branded under the Lewis name, though made by Union Special. It's actually a single thread blindstitch machine. My memories are not fond ones. Keep that puppy. Regards, Eric

Yeah, that's one there. You can see the advantages. Able to do inside curves, but lets the binding flow better. Regards, Eric

That Juki Lk 1850 is a workhorse. I still keep one ready to go as a backup. That Union Special 56300 is a great machine. There are several model variants using the same casting. It has the best oiling system I've ever seen. Parts are available here in the States. I also spotted a feed off the arm chainstich. Can't tell the make, though it resembles the Singer. You have several overlock machines as well. Looks like you have a "bone yard" of about anything you need. Welcome to the forum! Regards, Eric

A 45 degree folder is neither an inline, or a right angle (90 degree). It's a class of folder by itself. It just relaxes the bend and allows heavy bindings to not only accommodate inside curves, but flow easily. They work great. I've never shopped for them online, I usually have them made. The companies like Tennessee Att. , Atlanta Att, etc do sell stock folders. The quality of these professional folders is way better than what most people buy online. Pre-made folders run $75-$300 custom folders are $1000-$1600. They're heavy stainless to withstand the abuse of a factory. That folder in my last picture has had 5000 yards of 1" leather ran through it in the last 6 months or so. It's also about 20 years old. I love doing folder work, pretty much on a daily basis. Most hobbyists can't justify the price, which is fine since it's overkill for occasional use. I have a lot of folders. The picture is my outer shop with the folders on the right, and the mounts to their left. Regards, Eric

When using heavy binding with inside curves, a 45 degree folder is fantastic. I use them for heavy twill that you can't even get to fold out of a 90 degree folder. The swing guide is needed when you have to do a tie-in with your binding. They are more costly, but in a factory, folders and mounts pay for themselves quickly with reduced production costs. Regards, Eric

I buy a lot of folder stuff from Tennessee Attachment. They are a good company to work with. I'd call and tell them which machine you have and what folder you want to mount. You could even send them that last picture. Those are pretty standard mounting holes. Their quality is good. They've been around forever. I would go with a swing away style mount rather than a cover plate mount. More versatile for different folders. The attached picture is one of my leather binders. If you look how the mount is fastened to the machine, you'll see it's just a single screw. The two tabs over the front edge of the bed keep it solid. The hole that's farther back on the bed is for a larger mount. This is the proper way to mount it so you have full adjustment left to right without having to drill another hole. Regards, Eric

Came across some training notes for a lecture series I did a few years ago for a new mechanic. I'm going to attempt a Facebook live event later this year. I'm setting up a separate account and will give hopefully some helpful information that is better suited to the spoken word. I actually love to teach if people can handle my white board notes as I talk. Regards, Eric Mech Training01.pdf Training02.pdf

Nice looking machine. I love restoring machines, I have a few in the wings waiting. Time seems to be my restraint. I have a Singer 7-33 I've been waiting to restore for 4 years. Sigh. Nice work. Regards, Eric

I usually tap my own holes to standard thread sizes. That way I can switch machines and folders around quickly. Depending on the folder size and mounting methods, I use 1/4x20 for mounting to the bed itself, then either 10/28 or 8/32. Various brackets can be purchased from several sources online, check our sponsors too. Regards, Eric

If it were me, I'd braze it using an 000 tip. Much stronger than silver solder, less heat required than welding. No matter the repair method, it will need to be re-hardened as the heat will anneal it. Have fun! Regards, Eric

I can't afford to buy cheap parts. I buy OEM or generic through my main supplier, which sells both. They find the best quality generic and are always up front about quality or issues that have arisen from other customers. It's something we didn't have to deal with 35 years ago. Everything was OEM purchased directly from the manufacturer. I miss the days when the Singer rep would stop by every other week to take my orders. Sigh. Regards, Eric

Hi Uwe, i went completely through one of these last year. The thread is pinned if you want a good look at the oil system. If it were me, I'd make sure there's oil getting to the top shaft. This machine has a complicated oil system. I converted Venators to an "oil it yourself" system. The lack of oil had caused some serious issues. Good job getting the motor going. Regards, Eric

I prefer the vertical hook machines (top loader) for several reasons. Not the least of which is keeping track of your bobbin thread. They are visually easier to diagnose problems and if properly set, can sew a wide variety of materials using a broader selection of threads. Not to say horizontal hook machines aren't decent, I just prefer the other. Regards, Eric

The binder plate allows the folder to sit with the insert portion of it level with the plate. This allows what you're binding to have the ideal entry level to the machine. Over the years, I don't bother with special binder plates. The only exception is a Singer 281-30 which is strictly for binding that has a close-coupled puller. I use it for making hanger loops for jackets. Even my Juki LU562 I use for attaching 1" leather binding just uses the standard plate. Some people really like them. Regards, Eric

That is a binder plate. You can simply order a regular plate to replace it if you want. It has no affect on hook timing. Regards, Eric

My machines are all wired to the L15-30R plugs. My power all comes from feed rails with trolleys connected to the female plugs on SJ cords. I have gates in my feed rail so I can change motor rotation by taking the trolley out and just reversing it in the rail. If a gate isn't close, I just reverse two leads in the fuse box. Regards, Eric