Ken Nelson

I build saddles, and I have been building them for 20 years, build quite a few. I have been working leather for over 40 years. I don't use a clicker press as I don't do enough volume to warrant one. I have noticed some shops that have several builders do use them, some well and some not well at all. Some still cut for the best saddle they can build and some just see how many pieces they can get out of a side- don't matter if it is the wrong part of the hide for the piece they are cutting. I sew most of a saddle with a sewing machine. Few hand sewers, percentage wise, make their seams as pretty as a sewing machine does. But a few are super at it. I also use an old sole crank skiver on certain parts of the saddle as it saves me quite a lot of time. My saddles are considered "handmade" by the people riding them. If I were to take the time to skive and sew all of a saddle by hand, I would not be able to sell these saddles for enough to keep the wolf off of the door. I think if you are building leather products for a living or a good part of your living you will probably be using "cheaters'- sewing machine, skiver, splitter-which I have and use 3 of them. I seriously doubt there will be 1 saddle at the National Finals Rodeo in Vegas this December that is completely hand sewn. Same with the World Ranch Rodeo Finals in Amarillo, TX. I have had a number of saddles being competed on at the WRRF in Amarillo for several years. I have worked on saddles built by 3 different makers that are household names in the PRCA timed events and every one of them was sewn by a machine. To me, if you are a purist and want to look down on people that use these "cheaters" that is fine. However, in my opinion, it is a matter of craftsmanship. I have seen leather items completely made by hand that are JUNK! I have seen completely handmade that are scary good, including the stitching. Some of the nicest, best and most expensive saddles I have ever seen have been machine sewn and a couple of them were hand stitched and you had to look close to tell they were hand sewn. There is a world of difference between a "Real Good" handmade saddle and a good production saddle. The same is generally true of a lot of other products made of leather too.

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Thank you fellas, I will try that.

Nope, I haven't found the problem. Checked out a lot o stuff, went through and oiled it completely and checked all bolts and screws. Nothing found. Thanks for the ideas though. Hope more weigh in on this.

I certainly hope we can get WIZ to weigh in again on this. I like your idea though.

Under oiling is not the case with my machines. I have soaked this machine with oil. taken the rear plate off and I can not figure out for sure where the noise is coming from. looked and looked at it. I am stumped!!!

I have a Juki Pro 2000, one of the older machines when they were being sold in Harrison, ID. This machine set in my house for about 7 or 8 months and now has a slight grinding noise that seems to be coming from the handwheel side of the machine. Is worse when sewing than when unthreaded. It isn't very loud but I don''t want to cause worse problems than what they are now. Machine sews great. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. There are no heavy machine mechanics within reasonable driving distance of me. Thanks.

On my Cobra Class 4, I can use the Holster plate but not the stirrup plate without removing the feed dog but I also have the smooth dog that comes with the machine. It is close but does clear the bottom of the plate. HTH

Looks like you got a bargain if it doesn't cost too much to get set up. Where in Kansas are you located. I am in Wakefield, KS building saddles.

I thin Barge with Barge thinner. I use a glue bottle with a brush in it, it keeps the glue better, longer as it closes up tight. You can shake it to mix it and they are inexpensive. Panhandle leather carries or did carry them.

Might I suggest a bit lighter belt in front. If you get that front belt hooked over the saddle horn while on a "bad" one you sure want it to break.

Well put!

Most of us cut them and the desired leather used to be Indian Tan Latigo. A good supplier for that is Tennessee Tanning. They have all kinds of athletic leathers. HTH

I think any of the dealers listed in the banner on top of this site are reputable. I have done business, a lot with Steve and several times with Toledo Sewing and both are helpful, honest and good people. I don't know the others but would not be afraid to do business with any of them. HTH. Ken

I don't know about what you will be building, however I build saddles and tack and have built a number of saddles on an Artisan Toro 3000 (no longer sold new, but leather machine Co and Toledo sewing machine co have a similiar one) and there is nothing on saddles, tack and chaps that the 9" arm cannot sew well and efficiently in my opinion. However, I have a Juki Pro 2000 with a 16" arm and like it. I would advise you to pay close attention to Wiz and his advice. A wealth of information and knowledge which he shares with all of us. HTH Ken

At one time the Singer 45K was available on a treadle stand. If you could find one, I am sure it would be heavy enough for your machine. You could probably build one similar from the pics if you have a shop available.

It DOES have a knee lifter. It would not be a 206 as it has a top load bobbin in it. All the Consew 206's I have seen have a side loaded bobbin.

Panhandle Leather in Amarillo used to carry them and probably still do. They are expensive though. HTH Ken

What were the heavy single needle stitchers bringing last year? I asked weaver to send me a sale sheet. One page and not much on it. I would like to find a Luberto's Classic.

You are correct.

Is anyone attending Weaver's annual consignment sale this year? Does anyone order buy on that sale? Thanks Ken

Thank you, Sir!

thank you

I have a Juki Pro 2000 Ferdco sewing machine I would like to put a lube box on. I got the box from Ferdco a number of years ago but the screw is not correct for this machine. Can anyone give me right screw size and pitch for this. I had it on a Cobra Class 4 for a while. Thanks Ken

It costs to learn. I learned to build saddles using 2 book series. The Stholeman books and Harry Adams book. After I built over 50 saddles, I went to work for a really good saddle maker for 9 months. I didn't get paid much but if I had went to a school and learned as much, I would have paid a LOT of money. I have had a full book for a lot of years since.