immiketoo

Did you have the hawks to fit them or did you make it without them?

Thats really cool. I do not have the patience for that at all...how long did that take you?

Since we have been chatting in the other thread, hello and welcome! I grew up in the Madison area out in the country, so I will take honorary cheesehead status, despite living in Illinois. Plus, my mom lives near Spooner, which isn't too far from you.

I have had an interest in woodworking for years and I have just never been brave enough to start, probably due to the expense, and space. My dad had a wood shop and it took up a lot of space in the basement. I think I need a set of grips like that! I have a new 1911 coming, and I think those would look great. Do you sell them? Horse trade? Let me know. Mike

BTW, did you make the grips for your 1911? They are amazing! What kind of wood is that?

It looks good! Although the un-dyed piece has a lot more visual depth than the finished product. Maybe an antique finish?

You're welcome! It's tough to get started all by yourself, especially if you aren't familiar with the basics. I used my airbrush to do the colors, then I antiqued the whole thing. Last, I buffed it with sheep's wool. I do have a variety of small brushes for detail work as well, like the flower centers, and for other techniques like dry brushing. If you can't get your hands on patterns, pick a design you like and carve that. The process is the same. Here are a few holsters I have done. Alas, I have only been doing this for two months, so I am by no means an expert, but I am recently familiar with your dilemma, so take my advice with a grain of salt Mike

Oh yeah, Check here too: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=214

Ran, there is a process for tooling, and most of what I've found online doesn't really show much, so I'll describe my process for you. First, I choose a pattern based on the design that I want. Sometimes it's a custom drawn design, other times I copy something just for the practice. Once I have a design ready, I copy it to the leather with a modeling tool. Then I cut the pattern with a swivel knife. Then it's beveling, shading, backgrounding and decorative cuts. Tandy has some basic videos you can watch by clicking this link: http://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/t-instructional-videos.aspx Also, I found this video and it's pretty good. Here's something I did last night from a Chan Geer pattern book as a practice exercise.

I just had this conversation with my mentor yesterday. I told him that I believed that leather hasn't changed in hundreds of years, and that the techniques for working with it shouldn't either. It just seems to me that there is a RIGHT way of doing things and then there are cheats or shortcuts. Now, the reason things developed the way they did is because leather workers used what was available at the time, and perhaps had electric engravers been available we'd all be using them instead. An exception to this is dyes and the application of them. I have little interest in making vinegroon and I am very fond of my airbrush. I suppose the same argument against using it could be applied as with the engraver, except that there is a tangible benefit and I believe it improves the craft, whereas the engraver doesn't seem to. Odd, I just argued for AND against my own argument. I must need sleep...

Thanks Ran, my holster will be migrating to Wisconsin this afternoon! I like the color of yours and the smaller reinforcement piece. My next one will be similar to that I think. As for the tooling, just try one. I won't say it's easy, but it is definitely rewarding and people seem to like it.

Mike, Ya gotta take care of yourself! Never worry about delay in posts when your health is at stake. I will say you should get yerself an iPad or something if you really feel that keeping us up to date during heart issues is that important! Glad your back with us though!

I have found that I use the leading edge of the blade as a guide to follow the line. On a curve, I leave the leading edge slightly outside the line. I do this because the trailing part of the edge cuts a smaller radius than the leading edge. For straight cuts, I lower the leading edge and line it right up with the guideline. Hope this helps.

Or paid by the hour...

If you due the center orange and carve "Bears" on it, it'll sell instantly

My only advice is to try practicing on another silk item first. See how it feels, what the pitfalls are and build your skill before you commit to your beloved garment.

LMAO!

Dude, that's LOADS better! I love your finish.

I'll go 100 and Pete can still pay the shipping...

Bob, this is good advice. While scared is a bit inaccurate, there is still a bit of trepidation about using my stitch groover on a mostly finished project. So, I decided to use a different technique for my freehand grooving and guess what? No problems, no more worry. Now, about 40 years of practice and I'll have it just right!

LMAO! I would hardly classify this as misuse of taxpayers dollars as the 30 seconds it took are far outweighed by the fact that we had been sitting there for over 8 hours waiting. Alas, boredom had set in and since none of us had eaten all day, we were a bit peckish. Maybe its all excuses on my part, but I HAD to have that machine As for being the leader, I only have two machines, the one in the aforementioned story ( All true BTW) and one of the Singer's in the arched wood boxes with the flip up motor that is very beautiful, but again, I don't even know if it works. I am saving for a Cobra class 4 so maybe this will be the start of a true fettish!

Five days? You are a VERY quick study! How can we get a peek at your book?

True. I have enough wood to make another one tall enough to be a floor model. Back to the drawing board!