Ken G

Smart phone my a**.

I have a Sig P238 I'll message you later.

Did you send a PM to Johanna?

Outstanding video, and I don't even own one of those machines. It will still be helpful for the machines I do own.

I need to make myself a sign like this one. I'm sure everyone has made "wrong handed" holsters or sheathes or assembled something inside out. If you mix up a step or two you can turn a nice project into scrap pretty quickly.

A few more of the basics: contact adhesive wing dividers or a stitch groover to mark your stitch lines sandpaper, sanding block, or even a belt sander for edges an edger or two burnishing tool and method snaps and/or rivets and appropriate setting tools if you choose to use either type of hardware maybe a couple oblong punches or even a couple of wood chisels with the correct hole punch to make slots

Looks great! http://www.chicagoscrews.com/Stainless-Steel-Chicago-Screws

I can find a use for it, pm inbound.

The cheapest I can find the nickel plated clips from my suppliers is $1.29 each if you purchase 100+ clips, plus shipping. For 1 or 2 dozen $2 each is a good deal, Tandy normally gets $3.79 for them.

Looks great. One hole? I go up or down a hole depending on what I eat.

Two places to check out: http://www.coloradoleathergoods.com/index.htm and: http://www.shop.kentuckyleatherandhide.com/main.sc

They have something similar on pages 67 and 100 in their catalog. Might be called a plate staple or strap loop.

The recent Whitman auction here in Cincinnati a couple of weeks ago had a really nice Randall screw press like that one. It was built, and maintained, so well the owner told me several people gave the handle a push and it spun around and darn near busted them in the teeth. They also had a real nice creaser.

If it were my machine, and I considered bidding on several of the machines at that auction, I would remove the motor and all of the extraneous crap that is on that machine and install a 3/4 hp servo motor from Toledo Industrial Sewing. The website lists them at $135.00 shipped. That would eliminate the need for any converters, adapters, rewiring the house, buying air compressors, etc. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/motors.html

That is a single phase, 4 wire, 4 prong, twist lock plug rated for 20 amps, 125/250 volts. It has two "hot" wires, one neutral, and one ground. http://www.ehow.com/how_7702953_wire-nema-l1420p-plug.html

I didn't look real close at the leather bundles. Lot 82 was in the basement and I wasn't sure how long it had been down there. Lot 245 was in a small room behind some sewing machines and carts which made it very hard to get to. It looked to be in decent shape but I wasn't able to dig through the pile to see if I could use any of it.

I got a chance after work today to get to the preview, look around, and meet the owner. Nice guy with a building full of interesting tools and equipment. I wish I had some room, and extra money, for some of the bigger equipment. If anyone out of town buys any of the smaller stuff I can probably pick it up Friday or Saturday and ship it to you.

I shouldn't do it but I'm going to try to check everything out on the preview day. I drive within two blocks of the place on the way to work every morning and never knew it was there.

How about http://zelikovitz.com/

As mentioned earlier the new XD Mod2 has a different slide profile than the original XDSubCompact but the biggest difference for holster makers is the Mod2 has a rounded trigger guard while all other double stack XD models are squared off. There is no such beast as an XD9 compact. The XD9SubCompact has a 3" barrel, the XD45SC has a 4" barrel. The XD9/40/45/357 have 4" barrels but longer grips and are labeled as the "service" models. The .45 cal versions have slightly wider slides than other versions. If you use a SubCompact mold gun for an open bottom 4" service model holster you do need to know the take down levers are slightly different in both size and location. A lot of this information is found here: http://www.springfield-armory.com/xd-series/

The XD family is a whole different animal than the XDm family, the slide profile and grips are different. And yes, the XD45 is slightly wider than the XD9/40 models.

"Doc Martin Style", page 200 in the Ohio Travel Bag catalog.

Just wait, it gets even more confusing. Like BHPshooter stated the XDm40 Bluegun is modeled after the original design XDm9/40/45 with the 4.5" barrel. Since it was first they did not specify the barrel length in the name designation or slide markings. A couple years after introduction Springfield Armory chopped off the barrel and slide in front of the rail and came up with the XDm 3.8 in 9/40/ and I think 45 acp. The grip length is the same as the original 4.5" barreled model. Springfield's next modification was to shorten the grip of the XDm 3.8 models and that became the XDm Compact. The BG for the standard 3.8" model can be used for the compact as the grip length is the only difference. The 5.25" competition model has an obvious longer slide with a rectangular hole milled in the top near the muzzle as well as a fiber optic front sight standard. I believe it may also have adjustable rear sights. Now to add to the confusion, when Springfield Armory came out with the 3.8" model they changed the slide serrations on ALL models from the angled straight serrations to serrations that are "broken", or look like backward facing arrow points. If you are a maker that normally tools in slide serrations you must know which serrations you are dealing with or your holster may not fit correctly. You can see the different serration styles on the pictures on the Bluegunstore website of the two barrel length models.

Ideally it would seem that tapping new threads for a larger diameter screw would be the best repair but you would probably still have to disassemble the machine to drill and tap the hole accurately. Where my limited machining skills would stop me is I have never tapped a blind hole and since my taps are tapered I don't know if you could drill deep enough to get enough of the correct sized threads to hold the new screw. If it were my machine, and I've never used the Loctite thread repair product, I would put a small hose clamp around the clamp assembly to the right of the missing screw. I would probably cut a small sliver of wood dowel to shim out the flat area of the clamp. Then, since the thread repair product is expensive, I would degrease the screw hole with brake parts cleaner then install a new screw with a glob of JB Weld in the hole then never touch it again. It might just outlast all of us.