cjartist

I could not agree more! Welcome to the forum. You have a lovely website, keep up the great work. - Cheryl

Interesting question and one that I have never considered. Since I use the swivel knife in my right hand, it just seemed natural for me to use my right for the mallet. I can see how the control might be better if it was switched, especially for beveling. I may just have to try to that

No, the spindle is threaded in the opposite direction of rotation. The wheel is just hand turned on and the spindle essentially threads itself into the wood. It becomes self tightening when it meets resistance. This is typically used with polishing wheels by jewelers.

I was looking for a motorized burnisher to save my hands. Hand burnishing is okay for small things but when you move into working with long edges ... Uggh! So I was looking around for options and I ended up with this setup. I had the cheap Harbor Freight bench grinder that I got on barter a couple years ago. The spindle was $13.10 from eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/TAPERED-SPINDLE-1-2-HOLE-RIGHT-SIDE-OF-MOTOR-POLISHING-BUFFING-WHEEL-HOLDER/190689483141 And the wheel was $8.00 from Tandy. Yeah, I'm cheap ... broke is more like it. But I highly recommend this setup for anyone that needs a little help doing edges and doesn't have a fortune to spend. Enjoy!

Yeah, that has been my experience. Use that brush to pick up the paint and then wipe it off the brush right away so its ready for the next "oops:

Nice. I think I stopped with three and agree that a fourth would have been better. Ha ha, guess I just lost my patience I guess. I don't thin my paint very much, just enough to let it flow smoothly for me. I like and use Golden acrylics. An art professor once told me they have more pigment than most other common (artist) brands.

I just did a project just like this also. I used a coat of resolene over black and red dye and then white paint on top. For some reason the red kept pulling through until I got about three coats of white paint. The black covered much easier, Resolene is an acrylic sealer. The paints are acrylic. There really shouldn't be an issue of the paint not sticking well to the leather with a coat of resolene in between.

You really just need to take your time with it. I would use an even smaller brush, like a 0 or 00. It also wouldn't hurt to have a clean second brush that is wet, handy to mop up any overrun as soon as it happens.

What you are describing sounds like what they call milled leather. It is very soft and supple but any attempt to smooth it out will likely make it stiff again. The stuff I have worked with has a pebbled grain surface. i would be interested to see the Hermann Oak veg tan that YinTx mentioned. Any pics of that Yin?

Please, if there are any moderators in the house ... please stop this hurtful thread before I say something to get myself blackballed. Thank you.

I answered this already and recopied here for you. The real reason is that it is a political wedge issue. And that is all I will say on that. And YW Uwe

Vary sad to see this discussion here. All of your questions could easily be answered if you only took the time to try to understand (netflix is a great resource). You any your children have been sharing bathrooms with transgendered people your entire life See, that's the thing ... 99% of the time you would never know. This issue is one that was fabricated by some hateful politicians that like to claim God as their own, but are anything but Christian. Please keep your ignorance and hate off of these forums. For you never know who may be reading

I like it a lot. If I ever go pro, I may have to hire you to make me some stamps. You do great work!

Have you considered having a custom die made? You could then use that with a cheap arbor press and save some money in the long run. Or, get yourself a piece of 2 inch electrical conduit or pipe and sharpen the edge.

That is beautiful. Hopefully someone with some experience in upholstery will come in here and give you some guidance. I'm sure there is a trick to do it relatively easy.

Jumping in with both feet. I admire that in others because I tend to be that way too. I use mostly veg tan leather, not upholstery stuff. I have often wondered if masking tape would work well for a template for those curved surfaces, but have not tried it yet. You might want to try it out on the door handle recess first. Use several overlapping pieces and then when you remove it, you could cut where you think you would need your seams and to get it to lay flat.

Nice. I like the two tone color effect.

This was my first thought. The long shackle comes out completely and is adjustable.

Yep, and add to that the fact that a side of cow hide runs about $200, there is just too much area to cover.

That's cool. I like shiny metal. I almost bought an ancient wood and brass one off of ebay once. But the bidding got too high for me and I lost out.

If it is a Tandy Craftaid then yes. Although I think working with that would be a bear. I could see myself making undesirable markings in the leather from the adjacent letters.

Looks really sharp (in more ways than one) Was the draw gauge new when your purchased it, or did that get a shine too?

Would anyone know the approximate length of a sheepskin side? Tandy has some veg tanned sheep on sale, but I am looking for a particular length. Thanks, Cheryl

Super. Thank you for the videos you have done also. I just began working on rifle slings thanks to those videos of yours.

Looks like it is really well made. The thick shoulder strap is a great idea for comfort with such a heavy load too. Very nice.