cardinal leather

Mike, I signed up for Pauls course but could not seem to find a link to Bob's course. I know that you said i could do it by card so would use that option if I could.

Thanks to all for the input on these Pfaff machines. Both of them were purchased in a package deal. While the post machine will be of the most value to me the flat bed should have a place as well. A test with 3 layers of 6-7 oz, turning the wheels by hand shows nice clean penetration with out any grinding or hanging. moving parts are all clean and tight. When the weather breaks i.e. no more snow and cold. The power conversion can be worked out. The mechanic that serviced these units in the shoe factory is still working and agreed to service them when they are powered up. It will be awhile however I will post when they are done and in service. Any other comments on power conversions are welcome.

I use all of the items listed above in one form or another during edge braiding. I would add that there are two Tandy books out there depending on the store that you are at. I checked the number on mine and it is the same as the Chiefs. This is the best of the two, well laid out and the best diagrams and descriptions of the two books. The other thing that you can do on thick leather like you are showing inb your photos along with rounding the corners is to use your largest edger on the outer edges then slick the edge just like any other project. Then stain the edge to match the lace. Your edging will lay down with nicley rounded edges, If you do have a little opening somewhere on a corner it is hard to spot.

Gregg, Thank you for the review of this post. A couple of more questions if you don't mind. Do you have any rule of thumb price for replacing these machines back to stock if I elected to go without automation? How about the other options, the plain jane lifter with standard motor, motor that allows the air option and then the servo motor. Would all of these options require a reducer? Or would it be better to buy two pre-owned machines of the same style that are already converted. The reason is of course that if they can be bought reasonable enough and make the conversions reasonable enough, I end up with two very nice machines that will do a multitude of operations. Then I would likley only need one more that would do the heavy work.

Thank you for your input Wiz. I did finally get a chance to take a look at these machines this weekend. I also talked to a lady that ran them at the shoe factory. She reports that they are good machines and smooth to work with. Both of these machines have the Teledyne AMCO variostop on them. There is not much information available on these units. Both units say patent pending on them and there is information on line for the patent application but not much else. There are manuals available and I did download some of them to study. It appears that singer used the Teledyne variostop on some of their machines as well. I am now trying to decide of they should be converted to either 110v or 240v again it is difficult to fine any information on motors for them. Does the variostop work with any aftermarket motor or are the motors and variostop proprietary to the Pfaff machines. Has anyone in the forum worked with this variance of variostop and/or have any advice on where to find more information?

well done

It looks like i posted this in the wrong place. Will try to add photos to it. I need some advice from the sewing pros on the forum. A friend of mine has a couple of Pfaff sewing machines that he wants to sell to me. The first machine is a flat table 483 - 944/07 (900/51-BL) the second one is a post table 491 – 755/13 (900/53-BL. Both machines are roller foot. Both are powered by Teledyne AMCO Variostop 3 phase motors, built in 2001. They were used in a shoe factory that shut down in 2003. I am presently building a leather shop in my metal building so wiring in a rotary phase converter would not be a major issue. My shop has a rapid air system so adding air for the Variostop in not an issue either. As my leather hobby/business progresses I will be doing strap work for my sons pet store both retail and wholesale in the future. With two auto upholstering projects in the future and boat covers to repair or replace. The question is will these machines be able to handle leather, canvas, nylon, projects up to about ¼” ? Has any one used these roller foot machines? How do the geared roller wheel foot hold up? I understand from following the reviews on the forum that Pfaff’s are expensive to repair. However both are in very good condition and I should be able to buy, wire, air them for around 12-1300.00. Does this sound reasonable? Or should I be looking only at flat and post, walking foot machines? Thank you all for any input you can provide. Jim

I need some advice from the sewing pros on the forum. A friend of mine has a couple of Pfaff sewing machines that he wants to sell to me. The first machine is a flat table 483 - 944/07 (900/51-BL) the second one is a post table 491 – 755/13 (900/53-BL. Both machines are roller foot. Both are powered by Teledyne AMCO Variostop 3 phase motors, built in 2001. They were used in a shoe factory that shut down in 2003. I am presently building a leather shop in my metal building so wiring in a rotary phase converter would not be a major issue. My shop has a rapid air system so adding air for the Variostop in not an issue either. As my leather hobby/business progresses I will be doing strap work for my sons pet store both retail and wholesale in the future. With two auto upholstering projects in the future and boat covers to repair or replace. The question is will these machines be able to handle leather, canvas, nylon, projects up to about ¼” ? Has any one used these roller foot machines? How do the geared roller wheel foot hold up? I understand from following the reviews on the forum that Pfaff’s are expensive to repair. However both are in very good condition and I should be able to buy, wire, air them for around 12-1300.00. Does this sound reasonable? Or should I be looking only at flat and post, walking foot machines? Thank you all for any input you can provide. Jim

I worked on the road for many years. The first thing that I did after getting to my motel room was set up the ironing board. Set the computer and printer up on one end and files on the other. In the leather shop I found a vintage wood one at a local auction for 12 bucks, added a few new bolts and screws, works great if you are working in restricted space and is a great stand to layout straps for dying and finishing. Cut a piece of heavy cardboard for the protection. It can stick out both ends and a little over on the sides giving a portable workspace of about 16 x 66-72 depending on size of iron board. Plus it is at can adjust to counter top level or your chair level. Also folds up and can be stored out of the way when not in use freeing up the space again.

I have had the same problems with the alcohol based dies. Iuse a light coat of mink oil on the died surface, 2 coats on the back then wet the strap where it bends for the snap on various straps. this works pretty well. however I do not know that mink oil is the best product. I am trying others as well. but so far thsi has worked well.

Thanks for posting this, i ordered a copy. Jim

where did you buy this machine?

Thanks, Dwight. We managed to get the addition onto my shop in november. It rained for three of the days then snow started and things got ugly. But at least it is closed in. It will be April or after by the time that I am done. I hope your project goes better.

I thought this would open in the post but I guess I did not get it set up right.

Rivet press.doc

Very nice work Tim. What are you using for the interior leather? Both those fellas will be happy with these items no matter which one they pick. Jim

This looks like a standard round braid, modified the go thru the holes one time. Some of the big gun braiders on this forum would know.

I compared it to some mexican round braid that I use. This one looks like it has one more braid. Are you going thru each hole one time or two. How far apart are you spacing your lacing holes? Round braid takes about the same amount of lace. Can you post a photo of the sides of the piece? thanks for posting this one. Jim

I have an oppurtunity to purchase 1928 Singer 66 floor model. I have a Singer 29-4, however, I am interested to know if the 66 would be of any value in the shop. I do not use these machines a lot but would like to do more with them on thinner projects. Thanks for your input. Jim.

I started using this product this spring. I pour some into a jar then use a dauber to put it on. You have to be carefull putting it on so that it is all even as the leather absorbs it differently according to its grain. However I have had good luck with it and my edges have improved using it. Picked the product up this spring at a Tandy store in the Twin Cities as they were out of the bar soap. Decided to use it up for a pilot test. Over all I like the product it creates a smooth edge.

I have used numerous kinds of water based contact cement over the years, for countertops, doorskins, leather. They all seem to work fine. Re skining doors in a hospital was a good test. The product spread well with rollers and brushes, and smell was maybe 10 to 20 % of the other products. Used it on my last countertop rebuild in my kitchen as well. worked fine and holding well after 4 yrs use. I have tried different products, what ever is avail that meets the requirements. No issues with it so far. If it is local I would try the 3M brand. Likley cheaper than driving an hour round trip plus the fuel.

pete, i went thru a bunch of stuff that i got from a teacher. there is a hollow ground 1/4 in straight blade in there, in a barrel. i do not kinow the quailty but you can have it if you want it. i would need your address.

Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha, Thats a good one. Did you know you really can build a holster upside down and backwards? It looked great on the bench. When I tried to put it on to test it. I found out that you can't put it on no how. Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha. The only thing that I did right was the molding---I think---Better check. Ha Ha Ha Ha. Thanks for the recipe Dwight. If i can get my wife to stop laughing maybe i can get her to bake one for me. Ha Ha Ha Ha. Jim

I could use it as well. I am at cardl869@gmail.com. Or just post it here for those who would like a copy.