Rossr

Kind words thank you! Thanks very much I suspect the kids will have a ball.

Hi folks, I haven't posted much in a while so I figured I would add these into the mix. These are all awards for our Space Derby for our Cub scout Pack. Had fun making them up. Carvings are simple things from Line art I pulled from Google. I added the color cause I thought the scouts would like it. I can never get the look I quite want once I dye and finish them. either too shiny or the dyed brown part seems not to pop as nice. These pics are prior to finish being added. Also I used very thick harness leather 12 ounce and it was scrap I had around so not the best cut. As always I welcome critique. Cheers Ross

Hi folks, Any other scouters our there. My oldest son is a boy scout now and I am trying to figure out what color the green is on the meritbadge borders. I own a singer 29k and I have red white, and tan so no issues there but I cant seem to figure the best green color. I almost pulled the trigger on one color on the thread exchange. But figured someone might know. Thanks for any thoughts...and yea I know its not leather but...hey I got a patcher so why hand stitch these Thanks Ross

Those wood badge stamps including the axe and log are as rare as Hens teeth. I am not clear if Tandy marketed them or not. I see them pop up on ebay from time to time in packaging called scout crafts. I have been slowly trying to assemble all the boy scout ones. I did procure the owl, bear and beaver and two of them came in the scout crafts package which appears to be from BSA directly. So i wonder if boy scouts had them at their shops at one time There is also a copyright of 1996 on them. Recently on ebay there were four stamps, Axe and Log, Woodbadge eagle and bear, and the Order of the arrow with the arrow on it shown. The final bid was $420.99 plus $5 for shipping. So they obviously command a premium when they come up. At one time the OA Indian head was on ebay for a buy it now of $200(no idea if it sold). Also the Bsa eagle shown in the picture top two on the left, I only have ever seen one listing on ebay over the last couple years for one. I am also not sure but I dont think you can not use any of those and sell product unless you get licensed by BSA. That being said I do the scout ones for fun and for the scouts we have in Pack and troop. Or in the woodbadge case for woodbadge gifts when the course comes around. Im always surprised these command such a price but I guess its due to rarity? Ross

No Clue on that one Gary. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try. i wonder if it would be too thin? Ross Of course there is no end lol, but isn't that part of the fun! Thank you sir

Gary i followed this I found on a Google search. That is for the compliment. Give it a go they aren't too hard Thanks yin. And yea the cobbler with no shoes I understand

Yea I should have used the skiver on it but it's fine for me. Next one I'll do some playing with that. Just a reality of how it goes together.

I was inspired to make one of these after seeing @YinTx post on the beautiful one he made. This one is oil tan leather. Veg tan for the carved panels. I just played around with some simple carftaids I had, I also machine sewed the whole thing. Not a hard project at all really. I did rush it a bit and it shows in my carving and sewing in spots. This is a user for me and will replace the bag I have that is worn out. should last me a long time! Always welcome ways to improve so have at it and Thanks Yintx.

Ok I got mine done . Overall it wasn't bad. I did machine stitch mine. And I did get off a little on the one side carved panel. I cant imagine hand stitching these my hat is off to you Yin! the machine made it pretty quick. Most of the figuring was just in the learning on how to do it. I would make the left to right handle a shade bigger next time and the inside bugs me with the mass of the leather showing in there. Which could be tamed by skiving it down. Bag is Oil tan leather(Is this what is called pull up leather?) The side panels that I carved are veg tan of course. Overall I felt I rushed the carving and sewing the carved panels on a bit. But its a user for me. So that is ok I guess! I dont want to hijack Yins topic here and I will post another one under show off but figured I would add the pics Ross

Thanks Yin and yes it does. I also found this on a google search Seems similar Ross.

Yin, Did you have a specific plan or template you followed. I found lots of info doing a search but just curious what template you followed if any. I need to make one for myself. Mine is wearing out(not leather) and its old. SO I figure might as well make one for myself Thanks Ross

Hi folks, Looking for some help and seeing if anyone would be interested in this leather. I have 20 to 30 hides of what I was told is calf skin in black. Its about 2 to 3 ounce and i would say is maybe 6 to 7 square feet on avg. I really dont know for sure what it is...it seem to be nice stuff and i have used it for linings and such, but I have too much of it.. I would love to get $1000 a hide(ok i"m kidding but I don't know what to ask here) So the help part is can anyone identify and then we can come to a price and I will list it here. The pictures ares a example of a full hide, the back side and the front side. Thanks Ross

Hi Folks, I have a head only Fur machine for sale. I do not know much about these but it seems to turn fine and I see nothing broken on it. Asking $300 pus shipping. Or shoot me an offer. Thanks Ross PS: Will do my best to answer any questions

Looks fine to me all around. and Three isnt a bad learning curve at all. Its all about the journey!! Ross

Lol ....Yea I am very lucky I am in the states and IN Pennsylvania where wickett and craig is located. So its not hard for me to have choices. When I could see the leather at tandy I was able to get some nice stuff. Since then they closed up and the nearest one to me is like 1.5 to 2 hours away so i just order now. Much like you I wont buy from tandy less I can see it. Wickett and craig however i have had good luck buying sight unseen.

I am always amazed at the differences in leather even if from the same source. Try the spray bottle method...cant hurt to try it and maybe that is a winning solution for ya. Just keep practicing.....seems to be the best thing. Experience is a great teacher

Nothing against tandy, but over the years some of the leather i got has been good some not so good. At this point I almost always get from Wickett and craig and seem to get more consistency....I wonder if that was the case here and just had a batch of leather that was iffy?

My pleasure scoutmom and you are welcome! We are very involved in scouting at my house and both my boys are in it. I did my woodbadge in 2015 and currently I am on staff for this years course. Back to Gilwell Happy land, Im going to work my ticket if I can.... Ross

What kind of leather ...or what tannery was it from? or was it older? Just curious Ross

I dont use neats foot much for I found the same thing. I was always under the impression it was dye first then do the finish like neats foot oil or whatever.....I used pecards leather dressing a lot and have been happy with it. Doesnt seem to darken the leather too much and seems to keep it supple. I can see where doing the oil first would be hard to dye after for sure Ross

This is a very good point. I dont think of this much as I live in the country and have well water. but city water or any treated water may make a large difference I would imagine R

So when you dye it and then add a finish does that help with the dryness? I havent had a major issue here but I dont do lots so might just be I havent noticed! https://dgsaddlery.com/properly-casing-leather/ I did a quick search and found a blog post on casing(Again I have no connection to Dgsaddlery. seemed to have some good info...and of course I know there is tons of info on search here. Would love to see your padfolio when you finish it! Ross

Scooby I have always been confused by this .....that being said I haven't done a lot of research to understand better. I have come to use the fiebings pro dyes. I seem to get the best results for me anyway. I havent had any fading issues in my opinion from fiebings pro dye, or at least no complaints. There is a weaver leather supply video about dyes. I have no connection to weaver just saw the video. Also I am under the impression Fiebings pro dye is alcohol based see here: https://www.fiebing.com/shop/?item=42705. Fiebings used to be called Pro oil dye, but all you see now is pro dye....so not sure if there was a change or what occurred. Ross

Sheila This is a interesting question. I have been trying to think what I do. It seems to me I usually just do the part I am carving. Now in the case of this padfolio there are separate front and back pieces so it isn't as much of a concern. I have also been using a spray bottle as of late and spray the whole front when I do it. I know there are lots of ways to case leather and seems everyone has their favorite. But for me the currently I like the spray bottle. I recently did a couple 5x8 padfolios. Both had one piece of leather folded over. Both I carved the front and only dampened the front when carving. I did not notice any water marks from doing that. I then did the back separately and did some stamping on the back and again didn't notice any water marks. One thing I learned a while ago was to let the piece dry completely before I dyed them. In the past I have had issues when I rushed to dye them wet. I use only the Fieblings pro dyes cause I seem to get the best results from them. As always your mileage may vary but these are my thoughts

Lol you never know