brmax

Great link to the manuals, I found these great. Thanks Dikmam It’s sure helpful if one prints out the pages so to view one page and simultaneously is able to read the adjustment instruction on opposite page, as intended. So to help this posted question pages 8-9 would be in a good view. Theres no doubt you should print the manual link, or save it then later try it. Its sometimes handy to check how its setup, so to print double side correctly for your layout viewing pages. Good day Floyd ps: i started using them stickies for holes on the page the 3 ring binder uses.

Just sayin Thanks Bob! Now noticing this option on the front is a eye opener. These post sure give an opportunity for many of us. Good day Floyd

I think it would be good in 1508 NH discussion ( along with many 190 sys. others ), to ask others what leather point can be used that best can hide, a need using a bigger needle. Im first saying this because I like 190 system. In respect lets assume or I'm saying I aint changin. So with help I think this can be a grest question, and could be called splitting hairs totally! I would like to key in on a point Wizcraft put in his post; ( This also allows the presser feet to raise and alternate higher before they contact the bottom of the needle bar. ) well said! Can I also use, This: I think this height benefit is also a running start, or a wind up so to speak. Anyway, That contacting the needle bar is a noticeable event in really hard to repeat sewing scenarios. Like while simultaneously turning material, twisting to raise it and possibly using the knee bumper with extra thick paddings etc. etc. To my knowledge and usage this 190 system is optional to use on both the 1508 and 1541 series if desired. But as a known the longer anything in the same diameter the more flex it may have. Hence my question/backstory, bigger diameter needle but better thread hiding cutting tip. Have a good day Floyd

Juki considerations. I would need to understand its final sale, with its options and visual condition. It is pretty tough to try out something from any online seller, this includes new. This is particularly important and a benefit with various dealers that answer questions on this site, there are several, be mindful of that. Anyway these Juki machines are expensive when new, hence possibly why they are being copied! Its getting to a price level that choices are to be considered, in my opinion. That in no way is devaluing a technicians ability or their time and worth. Rather my options in the market, additionally the machines former owner and usage. Good day Floyd

In the interest of your first post, with this latest prototype photo in stainless. Can you give any examples of metals available of choice they mentioned from your experiences. I understand some stainless is magnetic, thats cool! Im just curious of others they may use, as in aluminum possibly. Primarily for thickness but additionaly weight interest. Thanks for the tips Floyd

That is really slick! Its definitely an interest now. Keep us posted. Good day Floyd

If it is a clone type of the Juki 1541, I think it will do perfectly well with the wallets. The bigger bags you mentioned is needed to be clarified a bit. When we get up in leather thickness its only normal to use bigger or thicker thread. So 138 size is tops on this machine size, and for all these medium class machines we use a lot. If you have a photo of the bag example, it will get cleared up for your benefit. Good day Floyd

That's the luck! I seen that this morning, Its a real winner, especially if one is in town there. You can be assured its in great shape, within the photos. Floyd

If you have access and some time, you can make a modification to help address this speed and starting. The motor has below it the lever for speed and connecting to treadle linkage. This can be lengthened. Also another is installing small motor pulleys we always see others doing here. Anyway this lever on the motor has different holes sometimes and typically to hook a link to treadle. As well the treadle has its connector, this can be moved along and to other side of treadle if needed. So using the lever thinking! Making this lever longer its possible to have better control in a gradual sense. Some around here have quite nicely fashioned longer extension on that lever from lite steel or aluminum angle stock. This may be worth a try until such time another power option is in the plan. Good day Floyd

Can you take a gander and look at the thread spool again, what size is being used. Maybe the needle is thin and bending a bit. Its tough in these diagnostics for anyone. Csn you say this is just during straight sew runs. Good day Floyd

Its best to get a model number from the post bed machine. In looking back in varoius post. It seems interesting to find out if the machine has some of the nice features like stitch length regulation, and wheel or walking foot. Additionally of course the general wear and noise. Have a good day Floyd

Ok were talking in post, first the top thread, now bottom. lets stick with one thread at a time As the knee bolster or the hand lift lever is for raising the presser feet. You can notice the tensioner when closely viewed does release only top thread tension a bit, when applied. So in all material removals and or thread pulling applications, the top thread is through the take up lever make sure that is in the top most position no matter what. Good day Floyd

Ok we are vaguely getting some where. In addressing any of these situations it helps, or one must explain in their way what they are using, where in the process they are working. So with this maybe others can chime in. With the expectation of knowing already or seeing in text what the operator is using. Like thread size, needle size. These may be skipped later in conversation or post if 1st question is a bit closer in direction. So getting along here, If you lift the hand lever for the presser feet to raise, this should as expected release the tensioner to enable an easier thread pull. This same effect as you, I think considered is correct, being the same should work for the knee bump lift. Its a touchy art the knee bumper. So Yep spot on there. In all this hot air im puttin out, help me in please explaining, your ending expectation through your question. This can help us, you and future readers. ( like if your knee bolster doest work) explain expected results I as all others here including you learn these troubleshooting tips along the way. It works with anything especially when others have the usual thousand other sewing and leather things on their mind. Floyd

Could you explain a bit the expected change needed. Thanks Floyd

It is an adjustment thats requires both hooks to be reset, this being the change of the saddle position along its machined way. So ya its not a today this gauge/ distance and tommorow another. For myself anyway others maybe, but unlikely. For sure it takes a lot of time. There are a few here that could accomplish this daily. The older ones typically have one needle bar, some newer ones have seperate needle bars. In that its totally out of my pay or interest grade. Changing this needle gauge width may have been a real pursuit long ago for me. If with something in the 1/2” or 14mm long ago if the parts were there. They were not. Floyd

Its called gauge from my best recollection, the between needle distance jargon. In an older singer as you mention or a 212 its relatively easy, if the parts are available. I believe they did design these around products, in my opinion. Floyd

Mark Looks as though you all have been busy and enjoying some machine stiching for a good while. A lot of your choices will now likely list a servo motor on any new machines and a great thing that is. Seiko is the leader of Consew America if it helps and the manufacture. To admire Seiko you wont go wrong in my opinion. For another bump in your looking at them, its the seiko as their flagship. For what its worth they bought most if not all Singer industrial. Have a good day there Floyd

As in the pdf Constabulary posted, a few brief photos showing a chain as a connection linking to the knee bumper mechanism. Sorry on that I was thinking just the rod type as on my 212, as this goes through the oil pan and connects in a similar fashion above on the back of the machine. In anycase movement with the knee bumper relates on the machine levers and linkage at rear. Good luck and keep us posted, and a big thanks Constabulary for the pdf manuals. Floyd

Yes good point. Its likely going to require photos as most good hearted people here cannot give an answer without some questions. The knee lift is the majority used lift. So what does the knee bumper do when pushed over 3”. Same question when machine head is tilted back, what is viewable. Good day Floyd

A few photos may help in some of these discussions. Im not sure where you interest are in the knee lift adjustment. You may find an oil can somewhere with ability to apply, possibly invest in one with tube or similar to get in tough places. Here below is a fairly typical lift mechanism. https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/knee-lifter-assembly-juki-b34010270b0.aspx good day Floyd

It looked as though you cleaned it quite well. The bottom looked excellent, but in any case a 1” purdy paint brush can always help on the inital work. The knee bump has its linkage to touch a main rod going through the machine base. This is noticeable when tilted viewing the oil pan access. This linkage has a tiny roller on it. Anyway adjusting the knee bumper is a science only you can fit. Your pushing it over with your knee. Surely its in the manual. I noticed your machine is using a roller attached to the presser foot, interesting for some. How does the lift mechanism lever work on the machine by the needle. I would take the left cover off and while taking a good gander, oil all the pieces and parts. I would carefully do the same on the top cover. Some tops have oil access holes marked in red paint, additionally some run a wick system, some with viewable sight glass on top. Many variations thats for sure. But a good inspection is now a perfect time. Floyd

Sometimes it can help identify if you turn the needle ever so slightly. This may give the loop a better hook up. Another concern has been the base of the feed dog, a wall it has on it. This area many times is machined with a concave, here is where the loop can push off from and then completing the route through the needle. This area could have got a burr. Good day Floyd

a Big congratulations to ya! it really looks cared and cleaned up as its tilted back. Its a good tuesday Floyd

I would say, and ask if you are prepared for or is there someone to thoroughly pallet these items in a secure way for shipment. Its always standard for these machine heads to be removed from their stand. In this are these in a location a tractor and 40’ trailer can easily perform a loading. These would make some nice additions in any shop. Appreciate the tip good day to ya Floyd

I understand some of that, let me put somethin in the mix. Its totaly up to you though, I am not sure what you use in hand sewing. But in the machine side, a standard around here is thread size for holsters needs to be a certain size. This is also reference in a “security size” for these, a thread strength. This particular size is typically I think in the 277 and 346 sizes. There is several “ sticky” post above in this forums area specifically discussing leather machines in detail what you need! So with that thread ability you would need a big Juki 441 or clone, or the big Adler or its clone machines with these thread capabilities. With these bigdogs out! all others stay on the porch. That's funny I don't care what anybody says. All that aside this machine in photo is a serious money maker for ya, and in no way will the 15-91 compare in this ones duty. In my opinion, as always opinions are like shoes everybody has some. Later, and have a good day Floyd