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Many countries or we can just say places have general fees or taxes as a standard. I understand tarrifs are a form of these in some language. In a better description I think. Tarrifs are in one way or the other, a levy. In that being more specific to a purpose. There are many different aspects of its effect. Actually both sides is seen, in every home. In essence its seen to help their public in some economic strategy. As we know this thinking is and usualy best considered for their total, public citizens. Just my opinion, have a good day! Floyd

The thread path is looking good from my point of view. Whats a priority for myself is keeping a consistant pattern of how I thread through all the guides and holes. Everyone can do it in any method by the book, but as everything having a known consistant pattern helps. Especially in any situation of multiples and or monitoring these for troubleshooting. Your onto the issue for sure, if its possible look or video the spools usage or thread coming off during this issue. When you notice an irregular stitch, you may count until the next. Maybe its a visible moment off the spool where you see something. Narrowing further I have made marks on the thread just off the spool to help in different situations. Its crazy how a lite! thread issue coming off the spool makes it a pain for a bit. Good work there Floyd

Not that the textile weave wont close up! But the needle size is to big, in that the recommendation from mfg.’s is size 16-18 for tex 70, size #69 threads. Sometimes its easiest to back off bobbin case thread tension screw. Adjusting this where its very lite! tension. Then working with the top more easily. Your stitch can waver a bit I think first with the needles hole making ability. Then followup with tension checks. Carefully notice any case tension screw. In their ability to be consistant in applying or reducing. I've had one with threads very very screwy, from new. Uncommon i think. I do feel we all consider, or maybe i should just say me. I feel the big brands we know of do in fact have better consistancies in their products. This sometimes bothers me afterward, when i have these very same issues. But hey, I many times relearn Something I heard and started is keeping a few different bobbin cases extra. Also more importantly is keeping some separate if you can for different thread sizes. This I find criticaly handy in using threads of same size, but different types. In examples, high heat or solarfix marine. In closing I wouldnt do anything without changing the needle size first, to at least close as possible to 18. Good day Floyd

With the photos, I can say it has exactly the same casting features of a 1341, that Im staring at. Looking at the first photo, a view at the back of the machine head. I recall seeing that mounting style of the knee / presser foot riser rod before. Seems different tables can possibly benefit with it I guess, and confident its a factory placement. Possibly the pedestal stands as the class 4, the 4500’s and 441 typically use. I had made a slotted hole directly under that machine connection. So to have the bumper rod traveling down and then toward the needle or cylinder end. Im using an existing corner of a bigger sew table. In all our setups, these parts can and should be to better our performance or comfort. With that, I still used the blue flame to get the particular bends in the steel rod just right. Good day Floyd

Was this a new factory table attachment, its clear it has some really rough contour. As you mentioned, in other words, an after market quality attachment, by Uwe would be nice. Here though, there are few but still comparisons with Uwes table attacments and these other factory brands. I believe its they are for sew machines, thats about all. Good day Floyd ps: i also have a factory table attachment. It mounts fine and is totally useable. It came with a used machine purchase of mine. With these respectfully, I now understand the newer options available, they look Great!

Can you remove the hook or shuttle assembly, to see if this helps. From the information, Im only considering a bind. But a bit more conversation could benefit troubleshooting. Good day Floyd

Seems a few charts show a 25 as minimum needle choice. This may be general as some leather is hard as a rock. In my pack of; Organ 7x4NW, DYx3LL= 200/25. The needle could slide on the 277 thread extremely quick, if one is doing that typical needle thread sizing. So I would care to hear if others use a smaller needle with veg tan and 277thread, in ten ounce leather or there abouts. Good day Floyd

2&3 would have my interest. I believe a 5550 of sorts juki, and the singer 211 believe it is. Good day Floyd

That is a great tip you mention Uwe. The orientation of the bracket, I hadn't noticed and with the photos, it helps. Good thing for all these pictures from everyone. After looking here earlier, I failed to copy and paste. Though did see on aliexpress a longer lever for this. Oddly this was in the same searching of the flip down part. The longer lever may well be made by the same company, that kwokhing has quite the part list. Where ever the lever was I passed on the save n paste because the 37.$ price. Anyway, thanks you all for the heads up on these installs, tricks n tips. Good day Floyd

It looks like it could hit on both, hex bolt and the guide. Can you describe that? If the bolt is removed does it, the lever still contact the guide body. Floyd p.s. Someone may mfg a different lever.

In the short time being interested in industrial sew machines. I honestly have only been around k stands. I think the L stand and H stands with their frame structures are a newer design. In my opinion they could be higher in price, although im sure with either there are both thick and thin box tubing and or dimensions used, just as the k stands. So what I have is the k stand, but what I like are both the L and H. Someone mentioned formica thickness, I agree, some thin stuff is used in these tops way to easily. Thumbs downs, with it. In some manufacturing I have seen hundreds uneven/ bumps on these tops. Its like they unprofessionally sprayed glu strings on, went to lunch came back to find they needed to spray more glue on. Then run it through their roller press Stands: most have the; lower foot support, running across. These tend to get both feet on them, or mine do. Especially if this area is raised from casters installed. This may be a support part, that one wants or needs lowered by some method. I mention this simply because I found couple of my k stands had this an inch or so higher, and in that not the same with any others Ive had. I have on all these supports installed a 12” plywood square left side of the go pedal, just a need for a bit more left shoe area. Closing rant: H stand, with nice white top and it requires a smooth top surface. Good day Floyd

Im in total agreement on casters. I used the mig to weld them on mine, as they are k stands. As mentioned they are contanerous on the feet, for mounting anything except slab of plywood. I have seen countless casters mounted with this method first, then on stands. Keep an eye on all the stand types, its possible to locate something just right. If your familar with the router and its performance, this gets to be just another new task. Just be mindfull of the particular inside corner ledge cutting. Even take a look for stands on C list, ive seen them there before. With that, the real old k stands I do believe they had thicker steel, im positive of that. good day Floyd

Even just getting a top from dealers, the shipment is an important point. However it can be listed in price as to have shipping or not, that aspect is figured one way or the other. It wouldnt hurt to check around, a k frame is a k frame is a etc etc. For sure, a pre cutout top fitting your particular machine, I would pursue. As mentioned the required accessories may need purchased with the above table. Is this a need? If so its a wise choice to call for any package kind of purchases. That way limiting again freight cost. Good day Floyd

It looks and from the conversation, the project is moving right along. Good work! In some other future task like that, especially cleaned up as that is. I found great use from a typical oven. They have seriously helped me in cast welding items that fit. Many have a clean cycle, it gets a nice hi temp good for preheat. Along with another application for after weld stabilizing with a slow cool down. These are also great welding rod, keep dry/ heaters also. Just as you mentioned the bbq pits for pre heat, great point! Good day Floyd

Im curious, are you in the UK? Another question to properly follow up; is this an additional machine prospect. Thus working within the shop with the 563. These aftermarket copies could be an asset. But without some homework from actual new owners its limited to asses the brand model. It might be an advantage for you, to supply a bit more information, to better advise. In the mean time Im sure several will take a look-see at the brand you mention. Good day Floyd

Im not familar with all the names, but by all means. Im sure to honestly help if I heard some your interested in. It is clear the 15 series is now for a few years been in study for everybody to clone. I suppose their run is done So these new brands are having to get new dealers and great techs to give the feedback on minor tweaks in the clone process. Of course also have the ability to service or convey to a new owner a tweak if one is updated. This is where your hunt as well as others is critical. So if I had some push buttons I could push them. But these functions require other accessories typically. That is not in your discussion or needs? I like the top step adjustment feature, especially because I have not! Now these in an auto step up feature are truely then in a class of their own. It could be said if your doing leather then a reducer is critical for extra slow maneuvering, ( we need to know) besides the easily noticeable needle punch through. So in all that, Truthfully some of these features may be unavailable, especially without an above 600$ motor system. Even with this its a study for usage with a reducer. Thats jus my novice knowledge. Good day Floyd

As your familar with that thread brand, they have a .6mm, I believe it is. The thickness of that is about standard or middle range with the class 3, 4 and all the other Juki 441 cloned machines being manufactured. Back to the .6mm thread its roughly same diameter as 346 thread size for the machine threads. It can be just another short learning curve with machine threads. This is always a good topic, and Im positive others here will elaborate a bit more. In the discussions I think you may find using the typical machine threads will be a benefit. Good day Floyd

My understanding also. good day Floyd

In the past manuals of Juki, their lubrication and grease has been listed in several ways. Particulary I have noticed the manual would say: In assembly. In other manuals of operaters or their engineer tech manual they would have : In the event of disassembly and the “ reassembly “ use type ~ In my searching in the past these types have been brought up, but honestly I havent seen any great clarification on machine specifics covering all their machine line. Typically individual machinery. Although it is my experience with equipment you could relate the specific part number and its “qualified” alternative. This can possibly be easier to understand its placement usage in a machinery situation. I am a big promoter of a companies designed lube choice, as It was a costly expense for them to decide best for their machinerys durability. Good day Floyd

Very interesting! I have not seen this new addition to their machine lineup. Good day Floyd

Welcome to the forum! Is the machine operable, and is there chance to talk with the owner operator of this. Especialy if they can locate a manual at hand, thats always a better scenario. Its sometimes interesting the insight one can get about machines just having a chat with the owner. Its a whole other discussion in picking through all their infomation of the machines usage : ) For interest what color is this 563 model. If I understood correctly white may have been the last color or newest models. I would remove the v- belt and turn the handwheel by hand checking for nice smooth operation. With the presser feet in the up position, at first. Some oiling in anycase is needed if its been sitting. At least where all the red painted holes are. Also removing the left end covers tin plate so to inspect and oil. Good day Floyd

I tell ya, you can spend a lot of money on a table top. I think if your looking for a wood grain as an interest thats cool. But if your also looking for a custom sized or certain shaped table top. This I totally understand and can more easily promote. In this above Im not trying to use my wants, its your funds. Rather just here as many offering a bit of historical info I can easily say good quality plywood is above 60$ a sheet typicaly as I see the big box lumber stores. These are as you mentioned one style, a hardwod veneer type. The typical others are marine grade and the mdo used for various applications. With the above material they are all easily better or more stabil than regular sheetings just by their wood spec., design and glue up. We should recall truly why some gym floors, bowling alley lanes, butcher bloc tables and finally many furniture makers bench is understood with their build of this thin side by side glue up of woods. The stability has long ago been known. If in stretching the stabil limit quality it we can and have seen in typical flooring, widen these widths a little. It has been pretty well established that partical board is the stable go to for manufactures. As we all have some in cabinetry in our lives. I have found it is a very good product in many builds. So in building any I sugest a three layer thick plywood or even particle board. I think if wanted, and access to some wood working tools you could as planed fabricat a nice table top, no doubts from here. There are several glues one can use in a layer up build. What Im working up to is if your really hell bent on a wood grain. I think a base material of partical board with a glued/laminated top layer of whatever. Be it the veneered oak ply as you mentioned or another actual thin wood in not wider than 2-1/2” width. Additionaly you can always use a masonite layer for fine tuning in between a layered thicknes for certain measures needed. With some good landau glueing outdoors, this for sure “wood” work In any of your choices 1-1/2 is bare minimum thickness imo, Just sayin some factory tops here. Now modified, that have a 2 x 2 angle steel frame supporting a singer and few juki 15? series. I guess they get heavier over time. This bit above is only important on the imediate area of a machine table, and disregarded if implementing machine head into a big giant work table. As this would be better discussed on another path. Happy trails Floyd

Is this top sagging to degree that's just un-cool. I have seen some that are or have been oil soaked and have weakened the particle board. This finally gives them a sag and may need attention. I have also had new ones from no usage but came from storage and banding on pallets that helped put a sag in them. With these I found a new metal frame constructed to brace these tops of standard factory option to be just the ticket. Many of these machine heads really need more support and a good seal on the exposed wood surfaces that are near any oil. good day Floyd

Well lets go at it with a few or several first steps, and some information for us on this end. With that out the way I'm gonna ask what thread size and needle are you using. Following up on that ya best give us some help. So how about some situations in your sew method, particularly when are these issues happening. In addition to these above, I'm sure you did some needle tip checks and its mounting. With that maybe we can hear a few more things in any other areas you can share. Also is there a manual handy for any reasons others can help relate to possibly. By the way you mentioned your going to keep working, On what material types. good day Floyd

No, Its just really expensive.. I like the bigger one I have had on a table saw for years n years. I did purchase some in 3L recently, primarily for estimating actual belts needed on various small systems. In this I followed up with purchasing standard fractional horse power v belts. If your close to one of our machine dealers, or have other stuff coming from them that's a great option. In an option to that I found Oriley auto supply, very handy for myself. They offer I believe two grades the upper is a Gates and another, and this other was trueflex brand and works fine. In another option the white cloth covered can be great if that's obtainable, obviously they would not have a shedding issue as sometimes encountered. I'm positive some v belts are very smooth and give no noises or the bump as sometimes heard. Also many often can shed some rubber, I am not likely to admit to any Hot Rodding so will blame it on anything else, Of course nothing of my immediate faults ; ) good day Floyd