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Many times one can obtain feed dogs with more/finer teeth and this may help enough for some leathers. Further there has been some discussions on feed dogs with no teeth available for some machines. This would take some homework, and heres a good discussion place. I would consider these above first before different fill type methods are used to smooth your present feed dogs. Simply because tommorow you likely will need the benefit of original bite from the dogs. If info is not in the present post, a new post is likely the best option. Good day Floyd

Ok, keep us in the loop of your results. The bobbin cases are likely to have a bluish flat spring in it, as the anti spin part. Most do yet they can be purchased without. So this could be optional and of interest. Also some of these cases could be purchased extra as a real benefit later on, this you likely know. Good day Floyd

It sure is tough one! I am trying to come up with how some extra thread can get out there, I mean with the case tension spring doing its job. Additionally only noticable after a corner, ya this ones a So if the last three stitchs are made in a slow process, Im wondering. Though I still have faith in that case tension springs only letting out whats regulated on the hooks pull. Good day Floyd

No, not this part rather this lever (sometimes called opening lever) helps move the bobbin basket & case assembly slightly. In this its a repeated movement and the thread gains a clearance. This thread clearance is obtained directly 12:00 position of the lever you see or top of the hook area in the photo. We can notice the thread when assembled with machine tilted back (hand turning/power off) as sewing scrap. The hook makes its revolution and the thread moves around the finger/tab slot. This is a repeated movement and regulated by the bobbin case lever mentioned. In short the juki 1541s is this style requiring its own design hook and includes a safety clutch mechanisim on the shaft. The standard 1541 as mentioned and some like it, are designed with different hook design that requires no bobbin case opening lever. Also this standard Juki did not include the saftey clutch. Some of these others of late I understand do have the safety clutch mechanism on shaft. In some extra moments, these opening levers in operation can be easier seen on the “top” loading bobbin machines. While some videos are showing the opening of that area for thread clearance and adjustments. Theres also some good reads and important info on that tab or finger with these style machines. Hey its Friday! Have a good day Floyd

Im going to have to ask is the machine the same as your work machine. Also is the tech the same company and or person as your work calls on. In any case I thought it strange most all issues were in corners of the same turn. So with some more or lots more questions, particulars can this same test be made with both directional turns. In this I would deffinetly bump up to a 19 to better assess possibilites. In that Im familar with solarfix and do use 18, but were not discussing needles primarily. We really could look at positions of the tension spring and take up lever when we know needle eyelet is still below the material but on its continued way up. Just doing a straight line stitch would be the choice. Its tough doing armchair diagnostics. So a big thanks for the pics but its gonna take much more and or a video. Remember these issues are exactly what this forum section is all about, you are at the right place! Good day Floyd

As you know, If you consider the needle is best to still be in the material when you turn, is easier. So with that if we take a look, and it can be a practice thing with the knee bump/lift. I mean getting use to the feel for presser foot lifting a lot! yet keeping the eyelet below the material. Its going to be somewhat acquired and then additional acquirements in material type changes. Good day Floyd

If you can ask them to oil them as you watch, this would be great. With that done, by having no thread in the needle or lever above it. You can lift the lever for the presser feet, or using the knee bumper. Doing this so the presser feet are raised and in a stay position. You can initially run the machines to hear most of their movements and gear train. This done also, just as you might wind some bobbins. I find it a lag time and chance to see, feel and hear particulars that are mentioned above from others. (great tips) These machines are both in the middle range or upholstery class machines. Which are great for your present task, but planing for much heavier leather stuff is not so much in your best interest. Imo To add something im sure you have seen in post so far are speed reduction types that are built or purchased. This part will be your new best and likely smartest investment part! have a good day Floyd

Yes, I agree also and you picked up a good tip in that. If your corners last stitch ends with the needle being down and after bottom center its going up. The amount can vary but try 1/4” or more to start. I feel the thread is then at a secure point to lift presser a bit to turn material. Is a smaller needle available or has this been considered. I understand each material has its go to size with threads. An 18&19 is my go to for 92 threads. Much of our time we will easily see a consistency when most of a products stitch line was sewn facing up. Its always a bit different looking when, we have to or just for convenience keep flipping over and stitching. Just something we try to pattern for even in our best stitch line. Good day to ya Floyd

Yes, If you selected your leather choice thickness/weight carefully. Just as you and I would do in the upholstery size or class machines. Our need or want to fabricate super thin nylon materials one in a while, its always our tough denial decision. So finding a sweet spot leather thickness with thread you can center the knot of heavier thread. I have mentioned before using thread colors to contrast a product. This as well can be looked at for blending if one wants thread concealed. All that aside the feed mechanisim can be bigger on the large machines as are the gaps and or holes for big needle abilities. Have a good day Floyd

The way the model number runs out, sure sounds like a Seiko. Its possible they have some involvement in my opinion also. Floyd

What Don said on thread is a great/scratch that, I mean Excellent point in this conversation. In bolstering this thread point its a colorful item in the planing, that in time can get much higher (quick) in the budget accounting. I for one sure did not think beyond a few colors initially. In some items a few colors works perfect, and sometimes in the same there can be other conversations. In example the thread contrast or something a bit more blunt . In usage the 1lb spool is perfect budgeting, even as a mid level priority color ( everybody's is different ). Yet smaller spools are what I need to re spool a bit. This can be a pita so If available same brand etc etc. small spools can be a great addition. So beyond and compounding your cost is thread color. Again its a great point brought up, do consider it in your initial budget outline. Good day Floyd

The thing about the best stuff is pro products are in larger amounts. So if you can be aquainted with them, its the shortcut. Especially having them in their shop doing a small project within their other big projects. But anyway here is a great info link thats spot on. Good day Floyd

Many times making stern choices in just a few projects is best for your machine decision. With that project choice, many here can say in short order if these are your best choice. I don't think either machine is going to be quick in tension adjustments for the thread extremes they may list. I like to agree thread size changes are time consuming. Therefore projects are efficient if thread size is consistent. Good day Floyd

Looks like a great find! Congrats The stand is looking pretty heavy duty I agree. A keeper imo Good day Floyd

I will suggest the style rather than brands as they will be renamed likely anyway What I have used and mounted in different ways are the swivel type. In particular they have and need “ both” braking and swivel locking. The frame you have to attach to is a key point here, I think. Another thought is if the floor rolling surface is not hard surface. I personally think a wheel bigger than 2.5” is required, as residential carpet is thicker. I have installed, by welding many of these on my k stands. These stands can be a real pain for this in my opinion. On the other hand as a young grunt, ages ago in upholstery shop. Boards of 2x4” were comonly used on bottom of k-stand legs ( front to back ) and this provided a superb mount surface for casters, without welding. Over 40 years ago The e-place has what I found great prices with 5” casters in the past with features mentioned. I used this size on shop tables and smaller diameter, from local box stores on k stands for concrete floor surfaces. In any case bigger is much easier to “ start “ the roll. Finding ones with either steel or aluminum locking parts, especially the foot application part is more durable, btdt. Good day Floyd

Im not aware of the strength ratings of kevlar or any other in that “ super thread “. I can say they have made most to the standard of others strength. This being regulated on standard size threads. Although though better durubility has came from advances in the industry. Especially towards heat and liquid environents. Its always good to hear what you find out, so appreciate hearing what is out there. It is important to hear these strengths based around other standards to start. Thanks Good day Floyd

Kinda like multi purpose! Pliers, cresent wrench and club cab come to mind. This choice would seriously limit a Christmas list. ? So Im staying the canoe rather than the pontoon boat for the moment. At least till I see gifts Possibly having a forum visit schedule, this could rustle up a post or two. Likely if I ask some questions it may get a wha? Just as I think it does anyway Good day Floyd

You might consider the use of a basting tape. I use this sparingly, 3 places about two inch long, on a four foot aluminum rule. The center tape really helps great, just as your issue. Seamstick; its called. I use it on my templates. This I wouldnt do without, many say it is handy on other seams in securing a bit. I pick it up from marine upholstery suppliers. After awhile it may need replaced because of lint and such from canvas etc. Also as fredk mentioned I also really like using the rotary knife. In other materials like vinyls or canvas, its a new tool. This I know can be infringing on tradition. But Im positive they will only see more usage. Seamstick is available in several widths, basically double sided clear. Maybe a 1/32 thick and easily in 1/4, 1/2” etc widths. Good day Floyd

I would like to think its helping to say, re think effecient choices. Both, from an early machine knowledge or one with a bit more experience with parts and adjustment. Im positive the talent with the leather products from members here is at the highest levels. The forums are great proof, in this as few others. We each can see easily an efficient path from our other experiences. This helps as we find a more comfortable zone to look. Its crazy tough to look at expensive items we have to wait for. So we set it up in a comfort zone to gauge why items are relegated to certain higher levels. Well, it’s likely more than daily comments of praise, being the higher price. With all its more than value to take a second look see at the extreme price range equipment. Its likely we will notice a worthy characteristic. These start typicaly with duty or abilities, this always is the tough part because its when we have to leave the domestic world and have! to enter the industrial. This is where big conpanies have had on staff engineers to spec equipment for task “ specifically “ They are pretty spot on with little gray area Upholstery class machines are my main style. Though I know they are capable of thick seam sewing, but primarily sewing over. So in my opinion are not designed for heavy threads. Some abilities incorporated in seam strength cannot be felled with leathers easily. With this I think horse tac products can benefit more efeciently from bigger threads than 138. Now the hunt for a machine thats ready! For your project “ now “ this should be a serious priority. In this I dont mean it has to be new. Good day Floyd

Totally agree on the labor cost. I do believe this is the key item. Im not anywhere clear on annual salaries of far east country labor markets. Though im likely to think just my annual health insurance premiums are near the far east annual salaries. ( just premiums ) But thats just my guess and opinion. Good day everyone Floyd

I believe whatever we do in daily task we have some measuring devices. Many times these perfect selections we found! Were in fact learned through different experiences. In these above measurements on sew machines, as all machinery in observations. These two items have provided the most for me through a career. Feeler Gauge Venier Caliper With these tools I've been able to measure many other items of stock materials for use in other measures. These venier calipers are almost given away now days, and digital omg! I can measure some cut strips of paper or card stock for hook clearances. Or measure some flat steel after filing for a select machine fit that I required. As in another example above, Matt’s photo ( the coin thickness ) Anyway these are the first items of machine measure, that everyone can benefit from. Some venier calipers benefit having depth measure ability. This is great, some older dial types I have are like this, but a new digital recently picked up lacks this feature. But I can really see it easier! Not a big deal for the cost. But I do insist it is a strong requirement if only ones in the tool carry. Good day Floyd

I early wished for one of them Seikos or the Singer, I thought and still do. They are excellent machinery. I think taking a real good look with the manuals, as to operator adjustments with recommendations is on the list. This maximum stitch of 1/4” or close to it ( .244” or 6.2mm on center of 2 holes ) is likely a minor adjustment. I dont know the specification on the machine. Although I have with found with mine, these adjustments can be best done in sequence with the book. Good day Floyd

I think you would benefit quicker with investment returns with a 3200 cowboy machine. I also think this standard table setup can help in the overall size concept/ duties. I dont think its needed, but if some thicker than 5/8” materials for bridles etc. are wanted, the class 3 cobra can be next handy size for that work. In a bigger shop setting follow up with a longer cylinder arm heavy stitcher as the 4500 cowboy and the class 4 cobra. These and some others can be obtained as quality machines based from others. Both of these just mentioned are as the class 3 much thicker capacity, but have a much longer cylinder for clearance in your products. These last three have a 7/8” or possibly a hair thicker material capacity. Keeping an eye on the local used sales listings is always an excellent tip. This is critical in searching. Also with these choices mentioned from the machine section here, you can be assured a direct, qualified machine selection. With this, you then you can better gauge others you find. If you are as I sometimes am. At the go, go on get’r done point. Well give this place a holler. http://www.solar-leather.com/cowboy-cb3200/ good day Floyd

Nice looking machine.

What kind of machine is this, or whats it designed for. Like google description.