brmax

Your area I believe is fortunate and has some dealers. Some are frequently on the forum here. Your capability sounds like a real benefit to many of us. An interest I have in trying to help answer is your actual machine usage. I have an answer and still want to say there are many used machines in storage or basements looking for new owners. As always smart reasons to talk with brick and motar companies is the personal walk in option. With that the first sew machine dealers I ever talked to are mentioned also on this forum frequently. I really do appreciate and respect these dealers here, and that I have purchased items from. With some of their assistance in peices and parts like motors, needles, table tops and reducers they have moved my basement, garage, gov surplus and in a barn sewing machine purchases to a success for my needs. To make this post complete, this specific forum has been my go to for machine tech. and learning my patience in particular learning my machines tips and tricks. Good day Floyd

Azuc: Good day to ya To help a bit, this is like so many things we all do really. Its just many of us are not use to trouble shooting efeciently over a phone, a 2way radio and even this blessed luxury we have had with the PC. I wont even begin to say how mad I am at myself for liking this dam iphone so much. So I would ask if your there on location?and if so great. Particularly because many will need/ demand better photos, clear and closer/ zoomed in at a few different places. What do the plugs/electric receptacle connectors look like or what is the voltage needed to operate these. We just need respectfully a heck of a lot of information on your end. So to better understand that, are you capable to pallet and structurally support these machines for a basic pickup from a Commercial transport company. This is the first basic question, so what are you willing to do on that end. If its typically local, or close buyers doing the pickup truck thing, fine. Just realize many other items discussed above are still needed to get any value on your end. I have a good motto and I dont care for others to explain what they think My time is worth, thats for me. Respectfully I know or should what my time is worth on making, servicing at my level or just consulting, especialy consulting as it kindly takes away from anothers paid time slot. Man thats a lota hot air eh! So pricing for both, say some one picking them up with a buddy locally is well under a grand. Respectfully as I ( speaking for myself ) would need time to clean these up, assuming they are setup standard. With some additional photos it could help. If you specifically were applying to start using them, this is the forum you would want to return to wherever you were located. And your a most welcome member with many here to help. Floyd

On the forum here there is a machine clasified section when the time comes if thats your sales interest. With that, this infomation may help us or others. To help aggregate this, I have been in a few upholstery and auto trimmer shops. These machines photos youve posted are from and used in that type manufacturing. Id like to be carefully honest, in saying this, or these machines in their models and power input or setup are extremely seldom found in local upholstery or auto trim shops. To be brutaly honest most shops could not in their day afford these machines, and additionally the ( be it old tech ) electronics and capabilites they can provide. With that step forward address, I can easily say the brand is the elite quality sew machine on the planet. Dependent on the voltage requirement of these electric systems, is the actual need! of that power system for many non factory shops. Or the need to replace with a less than Factory setup. With this change the ability to use is fine, but obviously now limited on the whole systems initial capability and worth. This electrical wiring requirement is of interest first. Additionaly the tech attention to properly use and understand these ( as other factory sys. )particular electronics can be intense. So in careful discussion we or others Im sure have interest, but particular electrical requirement knowledge is of interest. Even with out motor systems these are very much desired machine heads. With respect some home work on your part, to “machine” model numbers listed and your initial needs or interest should be known. Have a great day Floyd

As mentioned the cylinder arm is more versatile, I also agree. They hard truth is they can be twice the price easy, and still many people here can really describe their benefits within their own shop. In truth as you probably realized, these types are at times difficult to find used. Im going to share or mention respectfully. I have thought about it as many im sure, the building of a small table surface for my cylinder arm. My gripe! Is it would need abilities of removal in seconds. I have only had brain fart ideas on any mountings but, if the cylinder arm is the! Machine in your shop for over a day. I feel the top needs ready removal ability and so its a critical need. Dont get me wrong, I enjoy assembly style processes, so sewing batch parts are perfect in my planning. Its a thought to consider. Good day Floyd

I think its important in any of your choices above, a specific addition is helpful. This being a reducer pulley setup. Any styles mentioned around here work and here on the forum are plenty of post explaining each style. Im now partial to the box style. With your list up there I have to gladly promote the juki. Good luck on your choice Floyd

It matters a bit if you make a profit on freight/shipping, thats probably an interest to certain tax people. I hope we can agree that it doesnt matter any to the freight carriers how You, I and other companies write the shipping charge just that they get their fees. I am positive anyone in business can say and invoice how they want, but freight and shipping has a big impact on product cost. This cost has to be booked somehow somewhere. Its pretty simple if it cost me and I dont assign it and get it back its a loss. That would be tough on a business for awhile! good evening Floyd ps: it gets weird when you try and ship and go to extra lengths to try and save the customer a buck. Its suprising how some live in the most remote roads of a state

I thought it was a bit informative to go over to the post office a look at the priority package sizes. Just to get an idea on shipping in bags and boxes they handle. We all probably understand any lengths of products near 60” length can be higher, freight cost especially with it protected on ends. This making it over the normal 60”. I have noticed on all my non leather incoming products, as always are on 60”+ rolls and freight cost hurt, and are quickly seen as a requirement period. Good day Floyd

Typically with the line 24 snaps there are two strengths of pull in their release to my knowledge. The standard snap has and can be seen inside the button, Its also listed with some sellers. In anycase standard strength has a brass wire ring placed inside. The heavier duty has a bronze wire ring for the locking aspect. With this heavier need nothing else matters except this different duty type. https://www.dotfasteners.com/durabletm-sockets-2121.html There are other styles of these similar fasteners that require visual and directional movement to unsecure; referred to as pull the dot. They are much more expensive. One has to start digging deep in their internet site for the various products. I know there are many new companies that sell fasteners, some mentioned here I seen have some very cool designs, as well different purchase qty availabilities. This place in link is just one. I will say this is likely the oldest in this US in my opinion, or better yet they say 200 years. Have a good day Floyd

I had to first find a table height that I could comfortably and accurately reach out there and still cut product with scissors. So these heights for me are comfortable, my work tables are all 38”. I also use the K-stands with casters. With these I found It was best that I build a 4”tall platform for these flatbed sew machines to then roll up and into their stations. I believe its the actual work being done in that station or area. If as many do, several different task on a long or big table then it has to be your call on who and whats going on. There are some super extensive books on work, production and human body work motion illustrstions. They are likely under architecture graphic standards. Even now I still always liked, with myself standing at work table my fore arms up lets say parallel with the top and palms down a 6” distance between palms and table surface. I also found this good for assembling small pieces and parts in my past. To add a key point, I found in building another table exclusive to rotary knife or head knife usage again my comfort height here was now 35 and so its what works for each person and task pretty much. Bar/drafting stools have been my mainstay for years Good day Floyd

I keep 2 press n snap and I simply couldn't and more importantly would not work marine canvas without these. Respectfully these also get leather usage, but im most familar with boxes n boxes of I think a top shelf product, line 20 from Scovill for my main purpose. Fasteners as these are seriously everywhere in our lives and with a bit different twist or turn. There are other super cool designed snap fasteners. These I also found interesting and they may require a special die and anvil set to protect the coolness. These at the present im not familar with. So have to stick with commenting on whats working in front of me. So I can say for mobile applications anywhere in the shop or elsewhere this press n snap tool is truly a precision instrument and excelent for the durable style snap. The company does make a table/bench mount holder for these press n snap tools also. In my case i rather move myself than drag yards and yards of canvas. If considered, the box of peices and snaps could be assebled anywhere with this setup. In looking at the photos there are a couple critical points. One is the part in the center, particularly left photo can benefit from a more consistant press, and likely obtained in your search. These presses of many kinds here in discussion form the better roll over. I think we all can agree this is the holding power so whatever we can do to get it done with one pull or one squeeze all the better. With that each of our projects today maybe different yet use this same fastener. So good luck I would agree to say it may be benefical to use a handy hole punch for leathers. With that though I have never found the need to pre punch in several layers of canvas be it cotton or the newest polyester and acrylics. I should mention I typically order different lengths of post or cap with these different length or height post. So there is no triming, but this is simply an effecient choice if doing 50 or some times ten on a certain section. Have a good day Floyd

Can you post a photo of the other sides of the snap fasteners. Also are you finding a need to pre hole punch any, Im just curious. Good day Floyd

I seriously like the quality that Seiko has always put in their products. With that, I said it before and I will professionally stick with my orignal choice. Take the red label Pfaff and get some thread. Happy trails Floyd

I would recommend some sanding with a few levels of grit papers. These particularly I think about here can be refference in laymen terms as color sanding types. Additionaly these Im sure you know are, easily obtained with automotive/paint specialty supplys. I recall an important bit mentioned with this type hook service; A good rule is to have minimal surface change on the outside. Luckily as your photos show, a good workup on the inside is all that's needed. It maybe another opportunity if you have supply, to use a compound grit in final steps. This i have used at times with canvas, or on a peice of tough veg tan. An interesting question is what kind of clearence is or was there at the hook, along with was there any noticed timing change. Have a good day Floyd

In these portable machines selections, I think one should really look at the surface areas these machines are or will be operated. This I think smartly can be selected and likely used on other machines. Particularly ones not requiring a base/oil supply pan. With these though the very same issues are machine weight and so a serious attention to where and how to place these machines. So mentioning some concerns breifly. Its a must to follow up with the ease of movement with these industrial machines. Or in some cases its just limited area vs totaly a mobile operation. Which is not a big deal, just a selection segment. Additionaly we need to be serious when if required utilizing smaller stands or bases. So to help each other on the machine weight and the stability. Again we all here can eventually help with discussions, and as always get more focused. Its clearly what makes this specific forum area Rock! Later and have a Good day! Floyd

I really admire the work bench in the photo. With that Im agreeing bigtime, as Rockoboy described. So possibly consider a separate cut table you will really appreciate more I think, and with out items or clutter ontop. Obviously it has to be useable in your area, always a key point with all of us. Again thats a great work area ya have, and a rough out area is I think your best investment from, what im seeing or knowing, Hey its Friday, have a good day Floyd

Looks like it will reside on part # 2 between casting and the flat steel part #1 imo Thanks Gregg good day Floyd

Its probably a good time to catch a few “good 563” videos and try to move the last adjustment back carefully where it was. First dont think your the first to experiment with a screw driver on these, but do realize. They are “each” in their own league, thus requiring us many hours more tech study. If you have proper manual’s, like operators and engineers, thats a start and a nice to mention point I found. Its still a great page & picture reference we others used so long ago. Good day Floyd

Hey there, Thats a great paint job! good work there Floyd

I also found measuring the out side of the pulleys are the best and closest. So I think your on the right track! Although this is if were using a 3L or similar 3/8” width pulleys and belt. I found measuring the outside of the belt is my best bet. Good day Floyd

To find an appropriste thread to seam tightness and strengths, one hirers extremely competent engineering companys to test such articles. On the other hand we do various test that measure up to our own specifications. What ever they may be. I found searching many many articles and older post does help. I found these industrials are similar in these functions so with test, the typical components mentioned, other brands are likely to produce the same results. Hey Your always welcomed and encouraged to share any new results you tried, ( especially with photos ) even if they are separate topics. Im sure it can get narrowed down in short order. So with that, any discussions on the thread route, tension and its mechanical help like take up spring function is prolly where your gonna end up. Floyd

I thought to post this link concerning thread seam tension. Though its related it may be kept for refference. This as so many post here! on the site have post and mentions of this in various discussions. So im saying for sure dig into some posted topics of these questions of yours. As we know they have or will master the same questions with benefits of sewing leather items. So for general seam tension reference> https://www.coats.com/en/Guidance/Eliminating-Seam-Puckering have a good day Floyd

Sometimes to much thread seam tightness results in “ puckering”. Although this can and is professionally used in certain applications. We in general see this on the material surfaces we sew. In addition a slightly shorter piece on top or bottom, after sewing two identical lengths. This material surface notice can be a hint of the feed being uneven although its slight. Also getting into a specialized adjustment for different reasons. Good day Floyd

You might try this, so Moving the material may be best accomplished when the take-up lever is in a raised, very high position. This normaly is also where the hook is in a position that is not putting a strain on the thread below. Good day Floyd

I think if the plugs are only in the hole or threads its fine, as the paint spray will be on the surface and will surround the area. Im sure I would just leave them plugs until the paint is dry. And my patience is so short. Primarily I think this because the threaded holes you could use some swabs carefully. Additionaly them holes are now the only place, and carefully I would consider a hot! Cleaner as bk or such. Good work your doing there Floyd

I think it would be great to find, locate and discuss the presser feet like they have shown in the video. This texture or knurling they have made available for their machine is great. I think theirs as “all” machines now days are made else where. With that it is primarily supported by users and in there after purchase discussions that advancements in design or castings are made better. Here as with some of these machine heads, they were smaller yet had ability for some portable heavier work. Particularly suited for limited storage on boats and areas liken to that. Thanks for the oppurtjnity Have a good day Floyd