Colt W Knight

I can't see your pictures \ I make these bags on my Consew 206RB - I sew them inside out so I can get to the corners and such. There are certain types of construction the flatbed simply cant do. \

I really like using Fiebings saddle soap. It cleans and conditions, plus it dries clean. Getting your tooling wet may cause it to swell and loose definition though.

I would turn some burnishers, but I am allergic to woods like cocobolo that make good burnishers. That sawdust is nasty.

I believe you are spraying your clear coat on either too thick or way to wet. Its much better to apply several thin coats. An airbrush can apply coats so thin, its hard to notice if you are even getting anything no there. I suspect this is happening to you, so you go over the spot over and over until you see it forming a wet coat.

Depends on the crud. Have you stitched or lined it yet?

Rockler sells it

+1

That would explain why why he changel his Facebook name from ed bear man Labarre to ed labarre

I buy my leather from Hidehouse.com in Napa, CA. They have whole sale pricing, and the staff is friendly and helpful. The website leaves much to be desired, but they put out a great catalog that is much easier to navigate and find what you want. I've tried a variety of leather companies, and Hidehouse.com has been the only ones who have delivered consistent quality. I use to shop at Tandy, but the leather quality went down so much that I couldn't find a single suitable hide sorting through a hundred. If you need a lot of leather, you can order direct from the tannery. Herman oak will sell you 10 hides at a time for the same weight, or 20 if you need multiple weights. That's a big investment. If you are buying 1 or 2 at a time, you will probably struggle to buy very high quality leather because most stores sell to hobby crafters.

I saw wildwood contact cement in an aerosol can today, that might be the ideal soulution. Never tried it before though.

Yes you can, but there is a whole list of reasons why I would consider it a bad idea. 1. Resetting the leather to accept stamping/tooling will cause the already dyed colors to bleed. 2. Rewetting will hurt the definition of areas already tooled, and you may need to reburnish the edges. 3. Applying more dye will change the shade of the piece where more dye is added 4. Spirit dyes can harden the leather making stamping/tooling more difficult. 5. You risk accidently dying your decorative center piece. 6. If I were mak I got this piece, I would want to tool and dye the main leather, then seal it so it doesn't bleed onto the wrist and clothing. Then add the decorative stitching and concho. This isn't a large or expensive piece, I would just make one for yourself or friends with your/their initials. Then you can use that as a representative photo to sell future pieces. That way you can do everything in the correct order at one time.

Yes you can, but there is a whole list of reasons why I would consider it a bad idea. 1. Resetting the leather to accept stamping/tooling will cause the already dyed colors to bleed. 2. Rewetting will hurt the definition of areas already tooled, and you may need to reburnish the edges. 3. Applying more dye will change the shade of the piece where more dye is added 4. Spirit dyes can harden the leather making stamping/tooling more difficult. 5. You risk accidently dying your decorative center piece. 6. If I were mak I got this piece, I would want to tool and dye the main leather, then seal it so it doesn't bleed onto the wrist and clothing. Then add the decorative stitching and concho. This isn't a large or expensive piece, I would just make one for yourself or friends with your/their initials. Then you can use that as a representative photo to sell future pieces. That way you can do everything in the correct order at one time.

I went to Lowes and bought the 1" Brass D-rings. I went to age the finish to help match the copper, and they were simply brass coated. The etching solution removed all the brass and left a bright nickel finish. I left them in the solution a little longer and etched the nickel to give them an aged look. Its such a small part of the project, it doesn't stand out, but still it was an irritation. If I had extra d-rings, I would have like to cut one open to see what color the metal was on the inside. I am sure it was a cheap pot metal.

3m Super 77 spray glue. I stick the pieces together while its still wet, get the wrinkles out, and hit it with an iron. Ironing it really makes it stick together well. As long as you get a nice even coat, and really rub the pieces together well, I have never had a problem getting them to stay together well. I have even used both spray products to glue leather lining in things like padfolios, but I think contact cement is best for leather to leather. 3m makes a High-strength 90 glue that has better adhesion, but it comes out kinda like silly string - I don't find it very suitable for cloth to leather gluing because the clumps of glue bleed through. I have had similar experience using contact cement - It likes to bleed through thin leather and cloth

A CB3200 seems like overkill on thin watch straps. Are you have trouble keeping the leather flush, and not plunging into the needle hole where it goes to pick up the bobbin thread?

Did you get the Bear man maul? I am facebook friends with Ed Labarre, and the mauls he makes look great from the pics he posts on facebook. I am wondering if those are just how pieces.

Thanks yall

Thanks yall I think I'll be using more copper hardware in the future

The only thing appealing about canvas to me is that you can take it off an put clean canvas on if you alternate between black edges, burnishing wax, and doing a clean natural edge. Personally, I use cocobolo burnisher in my drill press. One of these days, I am going to make a multiple mandrel burnisher I can use for multiple color edge dyes and wax.

When I ordered my burnisher from there, my ship time was delayed as well.b finally got it, and it's been a quality and useful tool

I've built a lot of guitars, but haven't done many tooled leather pickguards. When I get time, I plan to do Waylon type tele with a leather cover

I can't see the picture

Your airbrush needs cleaned. Damn near anything will clog an airbrush up after a few uses. I have cheap 12$ airbrushed and a top of the line iwata. They both need cleaning after each uses and during use if you are spraying a lot of material. Most often, you have to remove both of the tip caps and completely submerge them in solvent and brush them clean. Also, the needle needs to be removed and completely wiped clean. The holes in airbrush flow systems are tiny, and get clogged super easy.Thinning and filtering whatever you are spraying is almost always necessary to ensure proper media flow through the airbrush

I'very encountered a similar problem on heavy synthetic material. The solution was going up a needle size. That allowed the top thread to pull the bottom thread up into the hole easier and with less top tension when using the smaller needle. What needle point ate you using?

I ordered some blue deer hide leather, and I was not satisfied with the color. After playing around with some different color combinations, I thought I would do a little bit of a rustic look and used antiqued copper accents and a two tone black and blue color scheme. I really like the way the tooling and purse in general turned out. I don't believe I will be ordering blue deer again, the color just isn't even across the hide, and the hides themselves don't seem as nice as all the turquoise, red, black deer hides Ive bought.