Darren Brosowski

Looks great. Only one question; there are hundreds of thousands black 31k15's so why what another colour?

WIZ, I am Anne Bonny's Locker. Have had issues with losing my login details. I wish I could sell bobbins for $US12 each. Maybe I should order some more as I sell them for about $US3 each Methinks that somebody is taking the piss at $US12 each. Normally I adjust the 42-5 to take the 135X16 needle

It is a Japanese built straight sewer http://www.parts.singerco.com/IPpartCharts/431D200A_201A.pdf

Te splitter alone sells for that

As a machine seller my first question is "what are you trying to do?" Domestic embroidery machines are very expensive compared to dedicated industrial machines. If you want to do basic free motional embroidery then a Singer 15 with an embroidery foot will do a much better job

If all else fails take a large hammer to it

Servo motors come in a huge range of varieties - just as sewing machines do. I import the Cowboy servo motors and they are great for most machines but they are set for a maximum of 1500RPM at the factory which does not suit every application. With the factory support I can reprogramme them for higher speed. The ramp up rate of most motors can be changed. Sometimes this is a user function but usually it is a special set up for the factory that the dealer can work you through.

The new bobbins from Taiwan are slightly smaller than the originals but will not change performance. A 29-4 is probably only going to get a reasonable stitch length at 1/8" if you are lucky

Meh

Left hand cylinder bed. I suspect that a CW8 belt would fit

Repairing horse rugs is sewing machine abuse as no matter how clean they are there will always be fine dust that wears out the machine. Buy a machine for your quality leatherwork and another one for fixing horse rugs

Bobbin is not threaded correctly in this picture. From inside the thread faces up and you pull it down though the slot, under the tension spring then up through the guide hole

Are you threading it left to right?

WOW, that is one of the first versions of the 29. At the time Singer did not use the numbering system so it was called the UFA - Universal Feed Arm Around this period all machines had a descriptive title and the numbers were introduced retrospectively

I have a 205 version of this machine that belongs to a customer and the adjustment on the front allows for differential feed so it is an "MO" machine. It is a single walking foot only

The hook is made by several companies. The Japanese are the absolute best but there is also an Italian manufacturer. I get some from Taiwan and they have never been a problem. It sounds like the shaft that the bobbin case sits on is out of alignment and it is most likely a one-off problem so ask for a replacement

My preference is the clones of the Seiko LSW and LSC as they are robust and slightly simpler than the PFAFF 335 style. All share a common base and the top end is essentially a Singer 211 compound feed.

As an experiment try dropping the needle about 1mm (about 1/25th") in the holder and see if that helps. One thing nobody ever mentions is that the 441 and clones also have a range of spacers to keep the correct spacing between scarf and shuttle. The 441 seems less susceptible to this than the ADLER but it can be an issue on small needles and threads

If you are going to import a machine from China then there is no warranty as you are the importer and warranty owner. I have never heard of them but that means nothing as there are thousands of people branding machines in China. All of them can supply pretty much any machine and the parts to go with them. The Chinese company is not really your concern. If there is a local dealer then he is required to supply warranty as per local law but remember that industrial equipment is not the same as domestic appliances.

On rare occasions I use the gear pullers but usually a couple of "scientific taps" with a hammer and block of wood will get things moving.

These things happen unfortunately. 20 seconds on a bench grinder would get you going in an emergency

Pull the cover off the end of the motor and go to the nearest small appliance dealer with the capacitor which is either a bulky tube or cube. A new capacitor is cheap and as long as a burnt out capacitor has not damaged the motor - rare - then it is a cheap fix. Usually a blown capacitor is obvious as they tend to rupture. There are a couple of ways to test them but you either need a mega tester, capacitor tester or a cheat that is preserved for electricians.

Despite what Bob says I can assure you that machines get called all sorts of names when they fail to work properly. I have yet to meet a sewing machine mechanic that has does not have an inventive range of swear words

This sounds odd to me as it appears the machine was working and then it wasn't. Something changed.

Glad it worked out for you mate. You asked me about the supplier and I could only give my experience so really happy you got the same result.