Rayban

Sixer, with 7/8oz you can cut off the inside layer just short of the fold-over where the buckle is attached, allowing room for the prong slot. This way no skiving is required, and 7/8 is plenty to support the buckle. Several "notable" belt makers do it this way. Sometime the wrinkles happen because the two layers were not stretched out evenly against each other when gluing them together. When I'm making a 1-1/2" belt, I cut the inside layer to 1-3/4" so I can then trim off the excess after the glue is cured. While the edges may be even and flush, they are still quite porous and rough. I take it to the belt sander and smooth the edges using 220, then 400 grit belts. This makes the edges very smooth and makes burnishing a lot easier and nicer looking. When a good job is done at this stage, you can't see that two layers have been glued and stitched together.

Check out these guys...$6 for a small spool ain't bad, especially since the customer will pay for it. http://www.thethread...roduct-selected That should make a cool looking rig, with a belt to match of course.

Reminds me a an old song...."she may be ugly, but she sure can cook"

I guess I've been too per-occupied trying to stay on my stitch line to notice......

Do you do the embossing? No way to keep it from going off the edge?

It's been a while, but after searching a long time I found a manufacturer but they were not interested in selling direct to a small time user like myself....had to order by the thousands...... Ohio Travel bag may have something...

Great first post....welcome to the forum.....or not.....

I have used machine thread to hand stitch (bonded nylon) but only when I really have to...I sure don't enjoy it, it like stitching with a wet noodle, even when I've run it through beeswax....but it got the job done.

I don't know that there's any hard set rules either..if it fits and it works, you're good to go. I like the looks of your slots and I would not change a thing.....looks like a good distribution of the weight bearing.

Are conchos and other metal hardware on guitar straps a good idea? I know, I know...you gotta be careful with your stuff.....but I would imagine you're still gonna bang the strap against the guitar from time to time. Does a guitar get nicked up much by them?

What are you stitching? And what's your hurry?

I must have a half dozen of these "snippers" in my shop but it never fails...I go to reach for one when I need it, and they hide on me..... It slapped me in the face today....like dahhhhh....so simple ....a little magnet and there should always be one right there in front of me.......we'll see.....

See post #5 When I bought my Cowboy 3500 from Toledo Bob, I asked him the very same questions....this is what I want to make, what do I need....he told me, and threw it in as a package.

Burn em...hold a Bic lighter to em...watch em burn.

Did you ask them if they had a problem answering phone calls and email messages?

Is there ONE blue gun model that will work for most of the Kahr 9MMs? I'm being asked to make a holster for the P9, but I understand that they are all pretty close. Advise on which one to get that will serve most, if not all? Thanks.

Are most of them long enough to make a belt with? Thanks for sharing your knowledge...I've been asked to "consider" making a shark skin belt. RG

Steven, looks like the shark skin goes right to the very edge....does it burnish well along with the cow hide?

I would say you hit a home run with it....very nice.

Why not just follow some western saddle bag patterns (just make one side), add side pockets, and a shoulder strap.

I say nicely done, I can't even find anything to nit-pic at. I found in making a pancake for my S&W 442, the most important thing is having the belt pass through the level of the cylinder...maybe just a bit above it, and you'll have nice retention. You seem to have that covered. Good job.

I don't know if there's a food chain of retailers getting the strips from Horweens, I'm guessing they sell them by the pound and they are piled up according to grades. Anyway, I find that Zack White has nicer ones, longer ones which is good for belts.....and hardly any "spur marks" on them as I experienced from other retailers. And they are only $10 a strip if you buy wholesale...best price for them I have found.

Lowe's has all sizes mentioned here...only a mile away....and i don't use them all day long so as long as I';m there every other day anyhow......it's the best source for me.

I doubt the leather would be the problem.

My set-up is a 2 x 42 Craftsman...I run belt edges over the contact wheel. I usually use a 220 grit belt, but been playing with a 400 as well, although I'm not noticing much of a difference. I dampen the edges too...that helps a lot. When the work is done correctly here, it makes burnishing a real breeze.