Rayban

The stitching around the slots may give it an appearance that it's a better product, but I don't buy that. The two layers of leather there are usually flesh to flesh glued together, they are there to stay, not going anywhere. Having said that, I will stitch around them if I think it lends to the appearance, and with a machine, it's very easy and quick to do. But necessary?.......no.

Good info Ronnie...I'll have to learn to maintain my FB page better. Thanks!

Based on what you want to do with it, I would advise getting a 441 clone from the dealer nearest you.

I have a Cowboy 3500 and recently "discovered" that with 138 thread and #21 needle, and with the machine set for 7 stitches per inch, I'm able to sew two layers of upholstery leather very nicely......I've been making soft pouches.... Then with just changing thread and needle back to 207/#23 for belts, holsters, sheaths, etc.....I'm off and running without having to make any tension adjustment. Sweet deal.

My brother has been a tailor for many years, and when he first saw my Cowboy 3500 (441 clone) he was wowed by the size of everything....thread, needles, the machine itself, etc. But after running a few stitch lines himself, he commented how mechanically similar it was to the machines he uses...just bigger. So my point would be, if you did take a sewing 101 course, I believe it would greatly lessen the intimidation factor many experience when they first try using a 441 clone. Just my take on it.

Also try Zack-White for their horse butts. I found them to be cleaner than the ones I was getting from S'field. Also they will ask if the butts are for belts or holsters and other projects. They will pick out the longer ones for belts.

I don't know what it's called, but as I understand it, the Cowboy ( which is what I have )and Cobra parts are interchangeable, so maybe someone more knowledgeable than me ( shouldn't take long) will chime in.

Ask them.....how many times.....how many different ways can I tell/ask you to ask then direct??

I would encourage you to call them and ask them. As has been stated up above, the more calls/emails they get, and the more interest show by us folks at LW, the more they likely they are to work with us on certain items. That of course means bending their rules on min orders etc.

I've learned (the hard way of course) to give myself just enough room around the clip for the foot....I like to mount the clip to the pocket first, because I then glue it to the holster before I stitch it.

I am definitely still interested, but mainly in 1-1/2" heel bars.

I recommend these guys: http://zackwhite.com/xcart/home.php?cat=647 You can buy just one strip at whatever width, thickness, or length you want....veg tanned is what you want. Tandy is a good source too, there may be a store in your area.

I would say you absolutely have the hang of it...that looks very nice.

I chose the Cowboy because I liked the color of it best....goes with anything.

The holster appears to be one of Will Ghormley's patterns, the Cheyenne....Will gives pretty clear instructions on how to sew "the plug" in his pattern package.....it takes some practice, good luck! http://www.willghormley-maker.com/OWC.html

My exact sentiment... til I owned a Douglas.

Probably been covered already but the size of the thread, needle, and awl all have to "fit" together before you'll get good looking hand stitching. In all the Stohlman books I have, I never saw him using pliers to stitch 2 or 3 layers of leather together......but I'll admit, I've used them to get out of some tight spots. And Tandy does not carry a decent awl anymore...no knock on them, but they just don't carry a good one. Look up Bob Douglas...he makes a great one. $100 is a bit pricey for one but if you're gonna use one everyday, it's a good investment.

I just got mine in from Steve at CustomMadeStuff. I ordered it Tues and came in the mail today. Steve furnished me a proof of it before he made it of course, and it has turned out perfect. Great customer service and the price can't be beat. It's Delrin, but I believe it makes as good of an impression as the metal ones I have. Thanks Steve!!

I also like the one I have from Philips. It's a flat plate made of magnesium, I use my 1-ton arbor press to make the impression. However, I'm liking Steve's , I may have to give him a shout.

All points that should be directed at him, that's why you should call or email him.

I will say this...I've been very impressed with the various skulls I've seen carved here.....I've tried my own version and ...well I SAS...suck at skulls.

Then you should call or email John to let him know you would support this.

I recall seeing it...but I've found plenty of it on ebay...and the batch i made up last winter I'm not half way through it, and I use it every day. But thanks, RG

I spoke to John at Philips this morning, and he said if there was enough interest/response from us here at LW, they may consider working something out for the smaller quantity buyer. They have no distribution chain. He appreciates our interest in wanting to buy made in USA buckles.....he welcomes hearing from all those interested...so CALL HIM!!!! 190 York Avenue · Pawtucket, Rhode Island 02860 T: 401-353-7383 · F: 401-353-8430 For sales: john@philipmachine.com Technical questions and sales: Joshua@philipmachine.com

Sixer, with 7/8oz you can cut off the inside layer just short of the fold-over where the buckle is attached, allowing room for the prong slot. This way no skiving is required, and 7/8 is plenty to support the buckle. Several "notable" belt makers do it this way. Sometime the wrinkles happen because the two layers were not stretched out evenly against each other when gluing them together. When I'm making a 1-1/2" belt, I cut the inside layer to 1-3/4" so I can then trim off the excess after the glue is cured. While the edges may be even and flush, they are still quite porous and rough. I take it to the belt sander and smooth the edges using 220, then 400 grit belts. This makes the edges very smooth and makes burnishing a lot easier and nicer looking. When a good job is done at this stage, you can't see that two layers have been glued and stitched together.