outcast

Looks great David, & PTL for landing that job in your lap. That's the theme work I love to do, & feel honored when I am asked to do it for $.

Nice!

It's gotta be some intense heat to loosen up barge cement. Once it dries onto the pan it aint movin.

You don't need any staples, or rivets. Use some barge glue on the pan (sand with 50 grit) & the leather (rough it up a bit). Let it get tacky then stretch the leather onto the pan. Press it down then smack it with a mallet all the way around. I use barge all the time

Great work Jeff! I love the colors.

Welcome to the club!

Glad to see ya made it over here Brian. Tons of info here. Welcome!

Very cool!

That was two years ago Bill. I think the sale is over. They sent me a flyer in the snail mail box. Never been to their website.

Foam n More outa Michigan.

My customers order anything from 1/4" neoprene up to 3/4" on solo saddles.

That's incredible.

I've said it before, & I'll say it again. You have a great hand Caroline. I'm still reaching for that level of knife work skill.

Banjoman, overall the seat looks good, The lacing is excellent, however those puckers are unacceptable, & that seat would never leave my shop like that. Sometimes you have to wet mold, but that could have been done right the first time. Also, 3 oz leather that has been carved on is also not acceptable. Your tooling isn't deep enough. You need at least 5-6 oz on top if carving & tooling are involved. 3-4 on the sides are cool unless yer gonna do the sandwich thing like in Dave's seat tutorial...then use 5-6 on the bottom also, & use a basketweave lacing pattern. It's ok to trash it, & start over. I do it all the time while trying to step up to another level, or trying something out of my comfort zone. I just won't SETTLE less than I know I can do....cuz my customers pay for my best work not my practice stuff.

I like Fiebings leather balm with atom wax.

You are correct in thinking that gluing the leather top down to the surface of the foam will help alot when you wet form the cover to the shape of the seat. It comes in a spray can & you can get it at Walmart usually.

Gluing the top down is done quite often, & there is nothing at all wrong with doing so. Especially on wet formed rigid mounted seats. It would be nearly impossible with some veg tan seats to assemble without gluing the top down. I use 3m super 77.

Good job! From fabbing up the seat pan to the final finish on the leather.

That's great Bear Man! Now I really have to get one.

You can't find better customer service than that. I'm impressed, and I believe that Siegel Leather does have much to offer us at Leatherworker.net. as any other supplier would.

I've had good experiences with them also.

It does sound like large $ orders are what they prefer, however I am trying to understand Steven's side also. Clarification may help, but it seems that Steven digs a deeper hole for himself every other time he posts. It might be best for his business to just let this thread die. I don't think it's gonna help anyone to continue this discussion at this point.

Nice piece Jeff!

There's nothing wrong with gluing the top to the foam....a lot of seat builders do it. 3M Super 77 works fine for that. As far as gluing the leather to the pan....yes that is done quite often too. Prepare the leather by roughing the flesh side, & sand the edges of the seatpan with 50-60 grit sand paper. Use barge glue on both the leather & the pan...let it get tacky for awhile....press it on ...when yer satisfied with the fit HAMMER it. This method is time tested & and used on plastic,fiberglass, & steel seat pans.

Try neutral Kiwi shoe wax, or Fiebings Leather balm with atom wax.