LTC

do you mean shiny like patent leather? there is a thread or two on here about how to do a proper spit shine. none of them are the best way to do it, but are passable and will get your stuff pretty shiny. maybe one day i'll type out how i do it. it would take quite a while and a lot of pics or a video for me to explain it correctly. also if you google "military spit shine" some of the links should explain it well.

there are plenty of free plans and videos out there so i wouldn't pay anything for it. i'm sure people that don't know about all the free plans and instructions will pay though. just not me. i'm not cheap i'm just a disabled vet with very little income.

remember...that projectile didn't just drop there though. it had some force behind it when it went into the dirt.

that would look ummmm..a lot less bad if those whipped parts were covered with some nice turkshead knots

as i said before a few posts ago in this same thread...

unlike others i'm not gonna sit here and lecture everyone else on here about what to post and not post but i do appreciate you providing the pattern. thank you for doing that.

careful.....i drive a '77 MG Midget from time to time. you know you can remove their stupid "metro" interface crap if you want to. if you do, it'll look and feel like windows 7 ahain.....

use "paint" to open the picture and then go to "resize" to change it. i usually use 550 to 700 pixels wide and then it's a normal size for forums. this video shows how to open "paint" in windows 8.

Thanks everyone..it was a fun little project. been thinking i'd make some in different colors and try to sell them as gaming dice bags. might have to see if i can find a local store that sells gaming stuff to see if they'd be interested. they're fun to make though. it's fun putting different colors together to try out.

have you asked them if they would consider carrying those sizes and colors?

he said a couple of posts above that the company he gets it from splits it for him for free.

i like fineleatherworking.com a lot they are really great folks to buy from and i've always been happy with their prices and service.

what's wrong with fineleatherworking.com??

you may not even have the same type/thickness leather they used. hard to tell without seeing both in person.

i'm not getting why you "have" to use the exact same leather just because you're copying another journal. you can modify the design to make it fold better. there's no law that says you ***must*** make it exactly the same......unless you just "want" to. but that's not the same as being required to make it the same. there's a difference between "have to" and "want to".

uhhhh the awl haft you linked to has a collet and comes with the wrench (shown) that tightens it in the collet. that's what the collet is for. you don't need a vice or anything like that.

don't know what you're asking the awl haft in your link has a collet and comes with a wrench to tighten it

made this bag to carry coins for a friend traveling to Tokyo

or he could've been talking out his butt because he had buyer's remorse and couldn't think of a real reason to return it

a friend that works at an upholstery shop gave me a couple yards of it but i have seen it in a few places. i'll ask him where he gets it and post back when i find out here you go....... https://www.fabric.com/buy/de-695/30-gauge-clear-vinyl if you search for just clear vinyl on there you'll see the different thicknesses they have hth

i use marine grade clear vinyl in my wallets and never had a problem with it works great

can't see that they have any horween scraps but thanks for the link anyway. figured folks on here would have a few small, tiny pieces i could buy off them to make some watchbands or a wallet or something.....pretty pathetic...

no one can help me out with this huh????????

a little simplistic description (takes more than that for it to look good) but yes.

you oughta get rid of that speedy stitcher thing and use a proper saddle stitch on it best thing i ever did to improve my leatherwork.