Big Sioux Saddlery

I use Square as a credit card processor for those who don't want to use PayPal. I've had no problems, but I discourage the use of cards. Much of my business is face to face, with people that are somewhat local, and they still write checks. A fair percentage hands me a wad of cash when paying. But I digress, Square has been painless for me to date. They may not have the cheapest rate, but there is no monthly fee, unlike back when I had processing services through my bank.

I agree with Matt S. You'll have too much stretch going down to that weight with most bench splitters, especially with a strap that wide. Even a crank through doesn't handle anything under 6/7 very well. Band knife is the way to go.

Tens of thousands (maybe more) of mature bulls that are either past their prime, have been injured and can no longer breed, or are culled for some other reason, hit the weigh-up market every year. I wonder what does happen to those sacks?? Out in big cattle country, if you have a bull that is a repeat offender for getting through fences into the neighbor's cows, someday you'll likely find he's been turned into a steer and his sack hanging on a fencepost somewhere. If you ride enough fences, that could be a source!

Could it be a conditioner that was used on the leather that the horse is reacting to? Stranger things have happened. I'd be curious to actually see the affected area.

Thank you for the kind words Josh, but i sure don't consider myself an expert. Experienced maybe, but if I attain expert status before I'm too old to do this work, I'll have accomplished something!

First I would take a good look at the current fender/stirrup leather assembly. Something is not right if it is soring a horse. Is the buckle rubbing the horse? Are the fenders lined, and the lining has dried out to the point where the edges are curling and rubbing/soring? Lining fenders on a saddle that will be used hard is always a bad idea IMO. The part of the fenders that contact a horse is one of the first parts to rot out on a saddle, because of the constant exposure to horse sweat. I strongly advise against putting fleece, or any other type of felt/cloth/absorbent material there. In short order, it will become encrusted with dried sweat and dirt and will cause more of a problem than you solved. For the same reason I will not sew fleece on a breast collar. Personally, I would want to see the saddle on the horse, and rider in the saddle to evaluate the situation.

Are you talking about a cheek press, or the top press? I have a Randall cheek press that I can post pictures of, but there are different models. I saw one on eBay awhile back that was a Randall, but it was different than mine.

It must be missing some parts. . .I don't see even a thread take-up arm or anything. What sort of needle does it have in it?

I looked at this last night and I admit I'm stumped. The top end looks like similar to a stripped down Campbell/Randall, but the bottom I don't recognize. More views might be helpful. Also, if there are any markings or part numbers on it anywhere, it might help someone identify it.

I don't live I BC, but I have never heard that term before. I suspect it is one person's idea of what they think a cowboy saddle is supposed to look like, and they assumed you could read their mind.

The consistency issue seems like it got worse a couple years ago. I'd order a shipment of harness and skirting, all the same color and finish, different weights within the same order, and there would be so much difference in temper and weights that were supposed to be the same, that I decided to quit offering Wickett and Craig as an option to my customers when the last of that leather was gone. Leather of the same type, within the same order seemed to either be too soft and mushy to be of any use, or the opposite end of the spectrum, too hard and stiff to be of use. Weights were all over the place also. I'd been buying black harness leather from them for a long time, with an occasion deviation just to damp something different, but kept going back to them. I had a chance last week to see a harness I built from WC about 8 years ago, that has been used pretty regularly, and it has held up beautifully. Something has changed, and they won't admit it. Wickett doesn't have a patent on the inconsistency issue though. I bought 5 or 6 sides of black harness of Hermann Oak this spring, and it was so boardy I almost sent it back. The shipment before was beautiful leather, good solid stuff, yet not hard. The last shipment came through Weaver, as I had a large amount of hardware to order also, so I got the case pricing on everything. I even called HO to see if possibly they do something a little different in their process specifically for Weaver. Their answer was that it all comes off the same pile. As much as I hate synthetics, I can see why so many makers have gone to it. At least it's all the same.

Unfortunately, that can work for or against ya, depending on the miles!

As far as the density/softness issue, I'm assuming just a difference in tanning methods. There is even a distinctive difference in the odor of the two leathers. Hermann Oak has a fresh, very "organic", almost sweet smell when cased up, and Wickett has a more synthetic smell, less pleasing, to me anyway. Regarding the weight issue, could be a number of things including where on the hide they measure, the point in the process that they measure, or just poor service. I have heard in the past that Wickett buys mainly dairy hides, which tend to be lighter in weight (thinner). The fact that their heaviest skirting offering is 12/14 oz, seems to confirm the use of lighter weight hides. I used to use a lot of Wickett's leather. The less dense/ softer hand that is characteristic of their leather is not necessarily always bad. Some people prefer it. I do like their variety of color offerings, but found that the leather was getting less consistent and yielding poorer, so I have been buying more Hermann Oak in the last couple years.

Nothing new there. Those have been Wickett's downfalls for years.

The driver for my extra set is for imitation stitch staples. Your best bet is probably the package that Beilers sells. Depending on how big of a hurry you are in to get one, I do have a line on another #2 with stapler attachment, but it won't be available until fall.

Might be the best answer here yet!! Truth, every word of it.

I just replied to your other post, wonderig what part of Illinois you reside in. I would be interested in information on the courses/education/instruction you might offer. There is minimal English work around my part of the country, and about half of what I get I turn away. I have stated that if there was an option to study without flying across the country, or the world, I would strongly consider it.

Welcome Kate. Where in Illinois do you call home?

I looked through Weaver's catalog and definitely did not see the wire staple attachment. I swear they used to have one. I will look through my cache and see what I can find.

I know for a fact that in my American Straight Needle manual it specifies right twist on the bottom. I'm not familiar with your machine but I know there were similarities between some of the American and Champion machines. In fact the two companies may have some shared history if I remember correctly.

I might have a spare. I know I have spare #2 heads, I'll have to check on complete stapler attachments. Otherwise do you have a kick press of any kind, like C & O, Heritage, or one of Weaver's? Stapler attachments are sold for all of those machines.

At one time all western saddles were made with a separate front jockey. There wasn't a specific reason for it, so much as that was as far as the process had evolved, although using a separate from jockey certainly allows for utilizing your leather to the maximum. A seat made in the modern manner takes a big chunk out of a side of leather. Back when separate front jockeys were common, (and I don't know the exact timeline of the evolution of the processes) separate side jockeys were also the norm. They were nailed to the tree, and later stitched to the seat leather. The channel forward of the rear strainer plate was open, with the top of the stirrup leathers exposed where they wrapped around the bars. Later, the seat leather was extended forward and slots cut of the seat, while still using a separate front jockey. I always wondered who was the first guy to cut the seat from one big piece of leather and eliminate the separate front jockey. A disadvantage of using this method is that it can limit the forward swing of the stirrup leathers, and add some bulk where the seat overlaps the front jockey. Also, oftentimes there will be a string at that spot to hold everything together, and it is not the best place to be drilling a hole through the tree. Back when that method was common, riggings often went completely over the fork of the saddle, in the Sam Staff style, and the area of the bar where we fasten riggings today was not as important structurally. Or maybe I should say it was less utilized and less strain put upon it. The evolution of the western saddle as we know it today is a fascinating subject and that is a very brief synopsis.

While I'm not a big fan of skulls, I have to say your work is fantastic!

It's not up on the auction site yet.

This may be of interest to many of the forum members. There will be some on-line bidding. Watch the auction website for updates and pictures. Auction List.docx