Big Sioux Saddlery

Answers will depend largely on the type of work. For me, splitters and skivers, pull-thru edger, creasing machines, auto spotters, riveter. So in other words, pretty much every piece of machinery in my shop. I build harness, tack and saddles. So done making bags would have different needs.

If a resist is used before the antique, the antique will remain only in cuts and textured areas. If the area where the antique is flaking off is not textured, that is your problem. The purpose of the resist coat is just that, to resist, and there has to be a way for the antique to adhere and remain. If the leather is smooth, and then has the TanKote on top of it, the antique has nothing to adhere to. I hope that made sense, and fwiw, I still have trouble with the resist/antique process occasionally. It seems some pieces just want to give us grief.

Where are you located, and what type of skiver are you looking for?

I bet it's worth the wait though!

That is impressive indeed!

It's still best done with two people. They really DO weigh over 500 lb!

I've transported several of these, and the recommendation by a sewing machine mechanic was not to split it, but to pull the needle, awl and bobbin case out, and then tip it into a pickup box on it's back and roll it in. Tie it down well.

Ahhh. . .of course. But we can suggest the OP become a member of the forum.

I have clicker dies for a couple different sizes and could click some out for you. PM me if you're interested.

I believe there are videos and patterns available from: https://www.cowcampsaddlery.com/howtodvdsandpattern.htm I've not seen them, since I had my patterns established years before these came on the market, but I know a lot of new makers use the above mentioned resources.

I would try changing the take-up to raise the lock. If you changed ANYTHING, type/density of leather, thickness of leather, etc, it can have an effect. Nylon, since it does tend to stretch more than the other materials, will be more cause that lock to stay on the bottom. While some people may think having to change the take-up on these old machines is crude and a pain in the butt, the ability to do that, along with the thread brake system is what makes these machines so we'll suited for sewing heavy leather. Speaking of thread brakes, you might want to check those also. If you get a groove worn in them, they will let the shuttle steal thread.

In all honesty i have not used my #3 enough to say one it sews with one thread better than another. I did get some poly for it; it was expensive, loosely twisted, and i wasn't overly impressed. I've heard so many negative things about the linen that is available to us today, that i am reluctant to drop the cash to buy a couple new spools to try it. I have a couple older spools that I used with my Randall machine however, and it was wonderful stuff. I believe I used either Frankel's stitching wax or Sellari's (sp?) with it. I have some of each. I ran plenty of nylon thread through my first Randall, and the only problem I had with it is the same trouble it gives on most other machines. After winding off the spool for a long enough time, it developed kinks between the thread brakes or at other points along the thread path, and that will always give trouble. The reason Eli may be suggesting a size bigger awl than needle, is as these machines wear, if you get a little play in the needle bar, you can have trouble with the needle not wanting to follow the awl up through the work, especially on heavier work. If you use a size bigger awl, it gives a bigger hole for the needle to follow. Very few of these vintage stitchers are as tight as they were when they were new. If you are doing fine, light work, the sizes recommended in the manual may work great, plus look better also.

When King's had the auction some years back after Don's passing, there were supposedly quite a few #3's sold. Unfortunately, I was not able to attend.

Looks like Turbo answered your question better than I could have. Bobbins and parts are going to be difficult to source. I'd try Campbell/Randall . . . I know they quit buying and rebuilding the 3's, but they supposedly have a few parts left. Eli Schlabaugh in Illinois may have some also. He is Amish, so no web presence, but you should be able to find his phone number by googling either his name or Landis Sales and Service. Just out of curiosity, what trouble are you having with the bottom side? Many, if not most of the issues with these machines (if in good operating condition) can be traced directly to thread quality.

I am female, and while I can't handle much dairy, I love meat, and I have 2 eggs plus bacon every morning for breakfast. While I don't have a problem with people eating whatever they choose to eat, or not, the spreading of that BS to people who may be easily influenced by it makes me angry. Completely ridiculous.

Fascinating, isn't it?! I could walk by a room full of brand new heavy sewing machines, without taking a second look. But these vintage machines were truly designed to stitch heavy leather, beautifully, and my heart beats a little faster when I see one.

I have used both chrome tan and a very light weight veg tan. You can put a very thin layer of neoprene type material inside the fold for padding, but on a noseband, it may end up bulky. If I had this project to build, I would probably get some English bridle leather from Wickett & Craig and split it down to abot 3/4 oz, if that. Their English Bridle leather has a softish hand, not overly dense, and I think it would work well for the fold, or lined section.

Mechanical marvels, these wonderful old machines. Looks like she runs pretty smooth, original treadle stand, NICE!! But for the love of God, put your arch cover on!

The extremists would rather that nobody eats meat at all, nor uses animals for any personal gain or profit. If things keep going the direction they're going, I can't even imagine what this world will be like in 25 or 50 years.

I still use the hand tools setters for snaps. I don't set many, but I ruin about twice as many as I set. I think it's as much the quality of the snaps as anything, that causes the setting failure. They're made from such thin gauge metal, they crumple easily.

While I have never used a Singer 7-10, I can tell you that this would not be a good choice for saddlery type work, even if it does have the ability to sew the thickness required. It appears to have very aggressive teeth on the feed dog, which will chew up the back side of anything lined with smooth leather. The foot looks clunky and you will not be able to get into the tight spots you will need to, although other feet may be available, or this one could be modified. Additionally, a cylinder arm is generally better suited to saddlery type work than a flatbed machine. It has become a buyer's market on the harness and saddle stitchers since the "clones" came on the market. There are great old machines for sale for half the price of what they used to bring.

You're welcome.

It looks like an old bench top riveter to me.(?). You would put the rivet down in the bottom tube, head down, and the anvil was on top. The anvils were not splash anvils, and did only a mediocre job of setting the rivets, at best.

I agree with toot. I positively HATE riggings that are attached with the standard, traditional method directly to the tree, and then hand stitched to the skirts right before closing up the saddle. It adds way too much time to a reline, without enough added benefit, IMO, to warrant the added labor. It completely covers the edges of the tree bar, which may be the real argument for using the method when the maker doesn't want anyone being able to see how cheap of a tree was used by being able to inspect the bar edges. I've built exactly one saddle using the method, and would charge a substantial amount extra if asked to do it again.