Hilly

Glovers needles are meant for lightweight leather, and are self piercing. They are a triangular shape in cross section, and the corners of the "triangle" are very sharp. If you try saddle stitching with them, you will just cut your threads. Are the seams just straight seams? Are there a lot of them, or just a couple? If you would prefer to have them sewn on a machine, maybe you could ask your local upholsterer to zip them through his machine for a small fee? Most upholsterers have industrial walking foot machines, and would probably be happy to help you out. Just an idea. Maybe you could get a diamond point awl with a slim blade from Bob Douglas, and saddle stitch? Do you own a stitching pony or stitching horse? I'd gladly GIVE you my stitching pony that I bought from Tandy if you thought it would help. I never use it, and would send it to a good home for the cost of shipping... Might help with the "needing an extra hand" problem? Just thinking out loud... Hilly

David Morgan sells a book called: "Braiding Fine Leather" It is pretty much directed at the beginning braider. Basically it says that you will need 1 and 1/2 times the length of your finished project, plus extra for tassels, etc. Also it says if you are going to start with middled strands, to measure 1 and 1/2 time the length of your finished project, and then double that number (for middled strands). Hope this was helpful, Hilly

I had the very same thing happen to me with my first Osborne awl. I waited about a month while they were on back order at my Tandy, FINALLY got it, and made exactly 2 stitches before the blade came out. Crap! I was really discouraged with it. What I did on the advice of a friend, was to take a tiny tube of super glue and fill the hole where the blade slipped out full of glue. Slid the blade back in, and put glue around the base of the blade on the wood of the awl handle. Haven't had any trouble since then with the blade slipping out. I just make sure to never twist the blade while I'm piercing the leather. Also, keeping the blade VERY sharp, and sticking the very tip of the blade into a chunk of beeswax before each stitch really helps the blade slide through without sticking. Of course, you could always buy a new blade/haft combo like Rawhide suggested....

Hello, Jim! Welcome to the coolest site on the internet! Can't wait to see some of your work. Hilly

Mine do the same thing, except it's deer carcasses that hunters dump in the wetlands cuz they're afraid (that's spelled "L-A-Z-Y") of putting them in their own trash containers. I'd love to find out who does it, and drag the putrified carcass and leave it on their front porch, or toss it on the roof of their house to be discovered much, much later.... Nothing worse than to have a dog gnawing on the 6 month old remains of dozens of muskrat carcasses that some trapper tossed out to rot.... Love to slip a few of those under the seats in their cars... And when it comes to dogs and the droppings of other animals? Well, we just won't go there today. Hilly

That is one fine piece of work! Love it! Hilly

Call it "menu di jour" or how about..... "stomach flu"?

Hi! 3 oz tooling leather is pretty light. Be careful when carving/tooling that you don't cut right through your leather, or you could learn to use bad words.

Okay Crystal, I donated $100 to LW. You can send in your coffee money

I also have several lamps in different spots around my carving slab, in addition to a bright overhead light source. I find I still get shadows under my carving hand, so I place a really tall reading lamp behind my left shoulder (I'm right handed), and shine it towards my right hand. It reall helps eliminate the shadows created by my hand. Now if only I could get some bifocals that I can actually see through...

So sorry for your loss. Here's a little something someone once sent to me upon the loss of a cat I had for 17 years: Just this side of heaven is a place called Rainbow Bridge. When an animal dies that has been especially close to someone here, that pet goes to Rainbow Bridge. There are meadows and hills for all of our special friends so they can run and play together. There is plenty of food, water and sunshine, and our friends are warm and comfortable. All the animals who had been ill and old are restored to health and vigor; those who were hurt or maimed are made whole and strong again, just as we remember them in our dreams of days and times gone by. The animals are happy and content, except for one small thing; they each miss someone very special to them, who had to be left behind. They all run and play together, but the day comes when one suddenly stops and looks into the distance. His bright eyes are intent; His eager body quivers. Suddenly he begins to run from the group, flying over the green grass, his legs carrying him faster and faster. You have been spotted, and when you and your special friend finally meet, you cling together in joyous reunion, never to be parted again. The happy kisses rain upon your face; your hands again caress the beloved head, and you look once more into the trusting eyes of your pet, so long gone from your life but never absent from your heart. Then you cross Rainbow Bridge together.... Author unknown...

I've made myself a carved pistol case, and now that I have it dyed, would like to use a resist, then antique, and seal it. I just really hate the way Supersheen and Neatlac (IMO) makes the leather look like cheap plastic. Something either matte or slightly satin would be fine for my tastes. Thanks Tina, for the links. I will check them out!

Is there any resists that are not shiny? A satin gloss is acceptable, but I'd rather not have a fake plastic look. Have a great day! Hilly

Sorry if this has been posted here before but... Was just doing a little surfing, and stumbled onto this site. http://khww.net/news.php A wealth of info for a beginner.

When cleaning greasy/oily things around the house, I often use a bit of ammonia in the water, along with detergent. I feel it cuts grease much better than detergent alone. I wonder if you could add 1/2 cup or so to a detergent soak for those saddlebags? It may dry the leather out a bit, but we know how to deal with that. Just be sure and rinse after using it. Just a thought... Hilly

Ooooooh! I'm GREEN with envy. That's gorgeous!

Yup. I did a holster with Mexican basketweave around the edges. Got 3/4 of the way around, and the punch wouldn't go through 2 layers of 8-9oz. leather. Maybe it was just a bad tube, but even my husband, who's got really strong hands agreed the punch was a hunk of trash. Never looked back after tossing it. I find it just as easy (actually easier for me) to use a drive punch. Tendon trouble in both elbows plus carpal tunnel in my right hand, and a touch of "Arthur" made it really miserable to use the rotary punch. No troubles now. Hilly

Thanks, Clay. I'll try a steel hammer next time, and see if it makes any difference.

Doesn't having your very own maker's stamp make you feel like a somebody? I love mine, but usually can't get a clean impression. Don't know if it's the stamp or the mallet making things bounce, and I usually end up with multiple impressions with only one WHACK on the stamp. Hilly

Hi Josh. I have a feeling that you're gonna get a few different methods here, but the few times I've done Sheridan finish, I did this: 1.) A nice coat of Neatsfoot oil. Let even out and dry. 2.) A coat of Neatlac. Let dry. 3.) A heavy coat of Fiebings Sheridan Antique Paste. Wipe off excess. Let dry overnight. 4.) A very light coat of Supersheen, dabbed or patted on with soft, slightly damp sponge (Wiping it on smears the Antique paste a bit). Let dry. Another light coat of Supersheen, applied same was as first coat. Let dry. Third slightly heavier coat of Supersheen applied with very slightly damened sponge. Let dry. The hardest part is having the patience to let everything dry between steps. Hilly

Love the dayplanner! Very, very nice! Where did you get the tree pattern? Hilly

I use Dap Weldwood from the local hardware store. About $6/qt. Holds really well. You can also get it in a water based formula that has no toxic fumes. It works just as well, but takes slightly longer to tack off. The only bad part about the non toxic stuff is that it's blue in color, so you have to be even more careful to not get it where you don't want it.

This is unbeliveable! http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=177...mp;fullscreen=1 Gonna to take some Dramamine now.... Hilly

OTB also has a "sister" site called "Hardware Elf", which offers a somewhat smaller selection of items at retail prices, but no minimum purchase. Also, if you see something on the OTB site that isn't available on the Hardware Elf site, contact OTB and they will try and make the item(s) available on Hardware Elf. Here's a link: http://www.hardware-elf.com/ Just FYI...

I've been thinking for some time, how to help out Leatherworker.net. I have donated $$ a couple times, but it's only a temporary help. What about an auction site right here at Leatherworker.net? Some of the many talented people here could make something, and put it up for auction, and donate part or all of the proceeds to this site? The winner gets an original work of art to do with as he pleases, and Leatherworker.net gets a new coffe maker and fresh donuts every day. It could be an ongoing thing, or just once a year, like on Public Television. Of course, private donations would still be welcome... Either way, it would be a win win situation. There's tons of stuff that I've seen made by the awesome people here that I can't make myself, that I'd gladly bid on (such as a really cool mask, or a creation by KK or some figure carving by Clay B for example) and I think there are others here that would do the same? Instead of a pay it forward, it could be called PAY IT BACK (to Leatherworker.net). Whatcha all think? Good idea? Bad idea? Why? Hilly