pete

I have a new Al Stohlman 1 lb mallet (poly head, leather handle) that I really don't have a need for but would love to have a maul. Any kind of maul would be fine. It doesn't have to be an "A.S" or equivalent model. Anyone want to swap? I'll pay shipping pete

If you're trying to do what I think that ou are- check out Jack Justis pool cases. I did a job for him and his finish is what you are looking for, He "wipes" dye/stain lightly over the leather leaving the cuts white/natural. He posted pictures here last year so look him up in the archives hope that this helps pete I think that it is www.justiscases.con

ok-beaverslayer- I'm slow but what's questionable about the request. So you mail him back and tell him that you take Visa and ship UPS. Where is the risk to you? Who cares where the account (China) is located? All that I would be concerned about is whether his credit card was stolen. I'de take the information and check it out

I just use a pipe wrench with a piece of leather on each jaw and crimp it.I know that there are places where you can't do this but on places that are close to the edge it works fine and doesn't leave any marks.

I'm thinking of getting an Oborne creaser- either adjustable or fixed. I've never used one- I just freehand cut the edge and bevel it. Do I still need to cut the edge or just push down hard on the edger? And how about a push beveler. Are they easier to use than beveling? Need to be careful not to run it out of the cut??? I don't want to spend money if I don't have to so I really would appreciate answers/opinions. Pete

First off- I don't do a LOT of projects that require stitching (over lacing) but I have been getting more work for belts, straps, purses etc. I'm not looking for anything here but just simple information. If I wanted a machine to do simple stitching on less than 12oz material, don't have a clue as to how a machine works, don't want to waste a of leather learning, won't get so frustrated that I sell it in a few weeks, and don't have to buy hundreds of MUST HAVE accessories what might I buy?!?!?!?!?!??!?!?!? ps- the only machine that I have seen up close is the Tippman Boss but I have been reading the posts here for months and I don't know if I want a manual that seems to frustrate so many of you what with adjustments, tension problems, etc. ANY information would be most appreciated. pete

Here's what I did on my last belt. I cut the blank from 4/5 oz along the back. Than I cut a piece from the belly a bit wider and simply MASTER cement glued the two together after all finishing. I trimmed with a head knife and then edger. The edge came out great as the burnishing covered any glue seam. pea-aire'

can you post a picture of the 6"? pete

thank you- I knew I wasn't crazy. PS_ the "guy" Kevin was refering to is the head chemist at Fiebings.

it's a pear shader but long and narrow and lined vertically or horizontally. It's the little ribbed look that you see in most Sheridan carvings. Look closely at the leaf tips and you'll see pete

The antique really darkened the sharpie as well as the dyes that I usually use. I guess that I'll have to dilute it a lot before dying. The green on the belt(not sharpie but dye) that I just finished turned out great but the green is only visible in strong daylight! By the way- in an earlier post I mentioned a trick that I say from Chan Geer. He pear shades the project then goes over it all again with one quick whack of the thumbprint. I really like the effect! It looks so much better than pounding the thumbprint to get the depth you want. It just takes a second and the one hit with the thumbprint leaves a really clean look. Try it pete

Thanks Spencer. I usually use a thumbprint but I was in a hurry to see how it came out. I only spent about 20 minutes on the whole thing! Sharpies are looking better and better to me instead of dye. Do you use one and how do you keep the color bright. I used a blocker but the antique darkened it anyway. Do I need to really put the RTD or neatlac on really heavy?

I know that this is not new (to me at least) but I tooled a little pattern and dyed it with a sharpie. What do you all think about the meandering border?

Heey folks- thank you all so much for your imput on splitters. I was thinking about the Neel's when" lo and behold" (yes some people still say things like that) I googled splitters and found what I think is a great one for $159.00. It's made by Awl Leather and they are direct or on ebay.(I don't trust e-bay) Check it out for those of you who want a small 6" desk mount adjustable splitter that does thick to thin and is affordable. I'll report on mine when I get it. Thanks again to al. What a great place. Here's the page if you want to cut and paste it for awlleatherworks.com pea-aire' here's a picture of the item itself. JUST WHAT I WOULD HAVE INVENTED!! http://cgi.ebay.com/Quality-leather-splitt...1QQcmdZViewItem

where do I look for Neel's? I on;y see a 12" $1800.00 model on their webpage? pete

I do occasional belts and have begun to tinker with other items that require splitting. I don't want to invest in a large expensive 8" $500.00 splitter either but it is way to difficult to get good results on wide leather using an EZ Skiver or safety skiver. Does anyone have information on the availability of say a bench or desk mounted splitter that could handle 10-12 oz or less? If there isn't one out there some of you machinists could do real well making one for crafters like me. Just a blade 4-6" (MAX) wide and a control arm to adjust for consistent splitting. Small and desktop/workbench mountable. ANY information( or used one) would be appreciated. thanks pete

Kate- I tried that too(acetate direct to dry leather) but found that the ink smeared when I cased the leather. How do keep it from doing that?

don't forget Johanna A flute with no holes is not a flute.... and a doughnut with no holes is a danish

forget using a new tool. All that you need to do is take one measurement and divide it by the other to tell you the exact amount. To make a 2" pattern 1 1/2" just divide 1 1/2 by 2 = .75 Multiply by 100 and you get 75%. Copy the pattern with the machine set at 75% reduction and you've got it. To make a pattern larger do the opposite. Divide the larger by the smaller, multiply by 100 and enlarge it that amount, ex. a 1 1/2 pattern that you want to be 2" 1 1/2 into 2 = 1.33 x 100 = 133% enlargement hope this helps pete

I tried that. The problem was that when I went to trace the pattern, the trasparency film was thicker than vellum or tracing film and the stylus made a wide mark on the leather instead of the really fine line that I get with tracing film. Am I using a film that is too thick? Was the leather too wet, are there different thicknesses of film? pete

would you be kind enough to show a foto of the insides of the straps? I'm interested as to how you affixed the conchos. I've done it the same way forever but would like to see if you do the same. Thanks pete

I don't see the problem here. It seems like you are anticipating one without having tested the market. You make a really nice, professional, well made piece. If that's the color it came out then don't "think" what the public will think about it! If I was in the market and saw yours by itself then I would figure that I wanted it or might ask if it came in another color. Just that simple. When I make stuff it comes out the way that it comes out. I may hate the color but if it was made well and I can't fault the workmanship then so be it. I may change vendors for future leather but the client never says- beautiful piece of work but the color is awful. If it's THAT bad I don't sell or show it. But yours is beautiful and really well made as I can see from the pictures. Just look around at the cars that you see on the road these days. I'm ALWAYS amazed at someone driving by in a orange/copper colored or pukey brown new car. I think" what possed you to buy that car with THAT color?!! Was that the only one that they had? Did you buy that color on purpose!???!!! Put it out there- it's beautiful and I'de be proud to use it and let it age and weather respectfully pete

I still sew by hand but I may get a machine one of these days. Tell me- how did you sew the front? Did you continue the lining over the edges(from inside) and stitch? If so- how do you cut the black border SO CLOSE to the stitching???? Beautiful work by the way respectfully pete

Am I correct to assume that the Tandy plastic border tool that I just got ONLY works with a 3/8 straight blade and not a hollow ground or angled blade?( Can't get the sucker to work!!!) I haven't used a straight blade in years and now I might have to buy one just to cut borders! Is it a good tool to use? I have always cut belt borders free hand but thought that this might be easier and more accurate. ANY feed back would be most apprecated. pete

that's really neat! I can't tell from the foto- did you bevel or invert ( bevel) it? and how did you finish the edges. It looks bound. Really nice work pea-aire'