Ole South

I've acquired a 29K-30 Patcher. Works okay but I found a flat worn on the cam follower roller mounted at the end of the needle bar lever. Ordered and received a new roller and pivot assembly from Pilgrim (p/n 1801) but the drive shaft is so worbled up at the end I can't pull/hammer the cam/pulley off. I can pull it back enough to free the roller but don't see how to pull the pivot. The original roller appears to be peened or swedged onto the pivot shaft so I can't just replace the roller. Any advice? I'm taking a couple wheel pullers to the shop today to remove the pulley but there's no place I can see to clamp onto the worn part.

Tandy just released flyers advertising Tippman Boss' for sale this month. I spoke with a Tandy Regional manager a couple months ago who said the patent was expiring. I imagine they are trying to expand their base before clones begin hitting the market.

Consew 28 or Singer 78-3 are needle feed designed to do canvas (read Model A curtains and tops) and pop up from time to time. No reverse but poor mans spin and sew or lift foot and needle and draw back 2 stitches works well with upholstery. Why not just swap out the head and drive belt as you need it on your current table? http://denver.craigslist.org/for/5587457264.html - Consew 18 Looks like there's a double needle singer for sale in Co Springs too ($500)

I need to make a pair of toe caps for a little girl's faerie boots. I'd like to use black patent leather; any ideas on how best to form them?

I ran across a semi-tutorial posted by one of our members on a blade forum. Nice post... he uses some alternative techniques not documented much here but worth a look. Nice results. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/568981-Some-tips-and-thoughts-on-folder-sheaths

Start with arrow length, then balance the circumference with the number of arrows she will carry to the look she's going for. Factor in a method of a "Keeper" so they don't spill out every time she bends over to tie her shoes. There are lots of examples on Etsy as well as Pinterest. A quick and dirty convertible back/waist quiver I made for a tutorial. 25" high x 12" circumference (arrow holding capacity not actual width) made for a 28-29" arrow. There is a 1" foam block in the bottom to bumper arrow tips.

Are the handles stitched through the pocket by design? Men under estimate the importance of feet on purses for women... I did... a friend (several that is) corrected me until I learned it, now I just have to remember to remind myself to include them when I build a bag. ​

It's not the feed dog motion that causes problem. If it's too high, as the dog begins to return it will still be engaging the material from beneath thus dragging the piece backward a little or a lot shortening the next stitch when the needle pins the fabric. Lower the dog to half a tooth (or a quarter tooth) above the plate, then raise dog height an 1/8 of a tooth at a time until you get where you want to be.

Nice interpretation, great execution. Good job!

I got a really nice English point from our own Texas Custom Dies sponsor back around Christmas. Don't know what shipping/vat's might run but the quality is spot on! Came sharp, stays sharp and very nicely made.

Ya think that hole was punched to make sure the drip pan could be adequately oiled? ​

We are manly men here... neither shy nor timid.... we prefer to consider ourselves "Reserved and Dignified". Bwahahahaaaaa.... Please leave us our delusions... please, please?!!?

Perhaps its own section in the forum??? MatchStitch.leatherworker.net? You could be on to something here Art... charge admission and you've a new source of revenue to keep us running.

Isn't the tip of the hook broken off in that picture?!!?

@Colt: Rockler only carries up to 3/4" wide with centered ribbing... our tables are 1 9/16"-1 5/8" thick AND the ribbing is not centered; it's a 5/8" drop from the table top. @Shoepatcher: got a call into Jones... waiting for a reply So far the closest match is Outwater Tinker's link above but looks like that's a minumum 250' order @ $.44/ft. Comes in three colors, Black, Brown & White. Thanks everyone!

Thanks Bob... that's what I finally did. Everything works, it's just the exponential gain in stitch length as you pass 7 on the dial that I've been fighting. I found a set of photo's Constabulary posted of the regulating mechanism (can't find them on review) and tried to get inside per his example but the collar holding the spring wouldn't budge. So I washed it out with WD40, verified externally everything was moving and re-oiled but 7=7, 8=10 and 10+ = tiny to miniscule to line cutting. The feed dog height and matching it with a proper feed plate was what was limiting less than 6sti. I'd like to say the -155 I've got works properly but I had to steal parts to get the -153 working. I'll verify when I get the new dog and plate installed.

@DrmCa Oil? Liquid? Polypropylene/polyethylene glycol?... is that better? Sorry, I misspoke from too quickly responding, I thought the concept of the wetting agent was more important to the OP. There is a liquid or wax of some form in almost every run/start cap depending on its age/manufacturer. I'm guessing this motor is from the late 60's or 70's so either might be the internal wetter.

Got to work on this machine tonight. Noticed the feed plate was deflecting as the feed dogs rose so got underneath and replaced the felt wick on the lift eccentric and adjusted the feed dog height.. While I was down there I gave the under carriage a good going over with a wire brush and WD 40 paying particular attention to the feed eccentric assembly. Things turn so much easier and faster now. I get a good 5 sti but the measured stitch out paces the stitch indicator still. Back to the eccentric mechanism. I found this post... lots of good 111 info http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=64816&hl=%2B111w+%2Bstitch+%2Blength

Rhapsody in Blue.... erases EVERYTHING!!!

Thanks Tink your search kung fu is good!! Outwater seems to have the ones... 3 colors. This works for one type of table top 1 5/8 " with a 5/8" offset slot ... some tops have 2 slots 1/2" down and 1/2" up. Considered buying and routing as you suggested... works for me but my buddy has machines strung out across the state that can't have the noise and dust a trim router/dremel creates and the offset slot is an issue for the T-molding products as the slot keeper is centered. A brand new plywood top costs him around $100... after buying and hand fitting re-banding old comes close to that. The benefit of re-banding is that he can do an in-place repair/upgrade w/o tearing down and remounting everything. Also... some of these are in high end couture shops... can't snag a $2000 dress.

I picked up a 153 for a fellow forum member and we're going to make the exchange tomorrow (Ga to Fla). Before I hand this over I'd like to visit one issue. Currently the longest stitch length is about 6sti. This is okay for the type of work we both do but... the stitch length isn't linear with the indicator. 6 to 7sti line up with the numbers pretty closely but from 7-8 on the indicator wheel the actual measured stitch length jumps to about 10 or 11sti and gets increasingly smaller disproportionately compared to the indicator dial. Also when set as the book states (8 measured stitches and move the dial via set screw) I run out of bottom end at 6 rather than somewhere south of the set screw hole. Is this a wear issue, an adjustment (hopefully) or a problem somewhere else? It sews nice. Needed a few minor parts and the tension assy rebuilt and paint but the new owner wants to do that. I was sure this stitch length was working properly early on in the checkout as I set the stitch length indicator as part of the checklist. The only thing in between was tighten down the loose feed dog and replace a missing feed dog plate screw. Thanks folks for your attention.

Thanks Mikesc,,, they have 1" 1/2 and 2"... our table tops are 1" 9/16 or 1" 5/8 . Some company was selling exact lengths just for industrial sewing tables but we can't find them now.

Nice work as always Uwe! What kind of finish are you gonna use? Poly or Tung Oil? :D Seriously, cheap and easy is a can or two of expandable foam sealant from HD and plastic bags. Bolt your item to your base, set it inside your box and place a plastic bags of suitable size strategically around the item. Shoot the foam into each bag and wait for it to expand (close the lid during this process so it fills the gaps you want filled rather than mushrooming out the top). Smaller bags in any remaining gaps. You don't have to use bags... sheeting is okay but a misplaced seam will get foam sticking to your item. This is good for one or two ships as the rough handling will degrade the foam blocks.

A picture will let us see if what you are seeing is normal (probably) or a tension/needle problem. Machine stitch on the back of veg tan is kinda like an exit-wound. Mine never look like my saddle stitch on the flesh side. Have you run a gouge line down the flesh side? Doesn't look the same as the top grain... does it?

Does anyone have a source for the T-banding that edges our store-bought tables? You know... the plastic/pvc/rubber strip that protects us from snagging our high-dollar double knit custom designer slacks that we all wear whilst realizing our creative endeavors at the sewing machine?