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About billybopp
- Birthday 07/06/1964
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Gender
Male
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Location
Pennsylvania, USA
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Leatherwork Specialty
Strap goods, cases, etc.
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Your father's car looks like a Ford Model A convertible. It probably has a rumble seat too. Those are a LOT of fun - I got to drive one many years ago. The first car I ever drove on-road was a 1965 Ford Falcon Futura 2-door that my Dad bought just after I came along and he realized he needed something more reliable to drive! We had 122 acres of wooded land that Dad optimistically called "The Farm" about 7 miles from the house, mostly on back roads. We went out one Saturday morning to do a little hiking, and as we got in the car to drive home, Dad said "You want to drive"? I said "Sure". When we got home, Mom caught us driving up to the house - She was LIVID! I was 14. LOL The first car I could call my own when I was 16 was a 1968 Buick LeSabre that my aunt wanted to get rid of, and they didn't want to give her anything for trade-in. What a land-yacht that thing was! One of these days, I need to get the pictures I have of those two cars scanned in - I dont have digital copies of them yet.
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@edge88 I'm interested! Message sent.
- 4 replies
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- beveling
- edge bevelling
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In general, you WANT the stitch holes to be as tight as possible while still stitchable ( is that a word)? Make sure the chisels are going all the way through, so that the back-side is up onto the tines - past the point so that it's fully open. As mentioned by @chuck123wapati, you can wiggle the needle a bit to stretch the hole some, as it will have shrunk back some after it was punched. When you thread the needle, double or even triple pierce the thread to help keep the "knot" an inch or so behind they eye of the needle. If the knot creeps up to the eye, it'll be far more difficult to pull through. Hope that helps! - Bill
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American leather history in the 17th-19th centuries
billybopp replied to DacianFalx's topic in Leather History
Check with University of Pennsylvania Museum of Anthropology and Archaeology/ Penn's Anthropology dept. They may have some resources to help you out. - Bill- 2 replies
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- black history
- leather history
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(and 3 more)
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I don't think so. There were a lot of toolmakers around Newark 100+ years ago. Have you tried a pencil rubbing of the lettering above Newark - It can ALMOST be read, but not quite! - Bill
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spring flowers and good food
billybopp replied to chuck123wapati's topic in All About Us and Off Topic
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Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good night!
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Just wondering. Why such thick, heavy belts?
billybopp replied to SUP's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
Hmmmmm. The caliper looks like it's a bit under a quarter. And yet the picture shows three quarters thick. Things that make you go Hmmmmmm. - Bill -
Looks good!! .. And darned comfy. Now all it needs is a matching side-table with a nice tall drink. - Bill
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Happy Thanksgiving to all! - Bill
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This is a bit older, but may give you an idea of what is/was available from Tandy/Craftool .... Some of the older discontinued ones MIGHT be found on eBay as well. Craftool Conversion Chart.pdf - Bill
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Dye Reducer
billybopp replied to Dwight's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
@Chipster99 So, technically, you could use pure grain alcohol from the local liquor store…but most wouldn’t want to waste that on a dye job, lol! Oh yeah. THAT would be alcohol abuse!!! I use 90% isopropyl, and it works well and is not hard to find. The more common 70% isopropyl did not work as well for me, but if that's all I've got around and it's a small project, I'll use it. 70% just seems to be slightly more likely to give an uneven finish. - Bill -
Most dyes will rub off a little bit. Avoid USMC black - it's notorious for a LOT of rub off. I use fiebings pro black, and get a little rub off, but not much. - Bill
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If you're using stick form compound, it doesn't really matter - I don't oil tho. Oil/grease is helpful if you're using a dry powdered compound. - Bill