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billybopp

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About billybopp

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    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 07/06/1964

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania, USA

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Strap goods, cases, etc.
  • Interested in learning about
    There is always more to learn.
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  1. Most dyes will rub off a little bit. Avoid USMC black - it's notorious for a LOT of rub off. I use fiebings pro black, and get a little rub off, but not much. - Bill
  2. If you're using stick form compound, it doesn't really matter - I don't oil tho. Oil/grease is helpful if you're using a dry powdered compound. - Bill
  3. You may have to figure out a jig that'll work with your press and letter stamps. Get creative!
  4. Gloves are pretty complex to make, but I've got a pair of commercially made rabbit lined gloves that I LOVE in winter!
  5. @DieselTech Happy Birthday!! That knife looks awesome! Enjoy it in good health. - Bill
  6. Here's a link to the first part of Nigel Armitage's sewing tutorial. It's lengthy, but also quite complete!
  7. It's not uncommon for front/back stitch to not exactly match. If it's really bad, that can be an indication that the thread you're using is too thick for leather thickness. Check out saddle-stitching videos by Nigel Armitage. Four parts. A bit lengthy but very thorough.
  8. I use kevlar cut resistant gloves when I have a bunch of veggies to cut up, and they've saved me a time or two. I don't see why they wouldn't work for other uses as well! - Bill
  9. When you find an answer, please share! Could be terribly useful. - Bill
  10. If you want to get dye off of your hands, try to find "Dye Gone II" dye remover. The stuff works great!! - Bill
  11. I use Weldwood lately, but I think if I were doing shoes I'd stick with the original formula Barge. - Bill
  12. One thing worth noting: These cutters weren't really meant for leather work, and yet they work quite well! While some tools are specifically meant for leather work and find very limited if any other use, there are a lot of really good tools meant for other uses (and often far less $$) that work very well for leather! Keep your eyes and your mind open! Example: My partner does custom framing from time to time. We bought a matt cutter to help with that, and I had an idea for how it might be used for leather, so we bought one that was larger than needed for cutting matt for anything we had framed so far. It turns out my hunch was right, and it is really useful for putting a very straight edge on leather up to about five feet! It doesn't always work out, but with a little thought it usually does. - Bill
  13. For my use, rotary cutters are nice for cutting thin and stretchy leather: mostly chrome tanned. They are not so helpful for thicker or harder leathers. I have both large and small (45mm and 60mm blades) Fiskars brand, and mostly prefer the larger one for leather. The main thing to look for is that the handle/holder is not flimsy, as some are. Thankfully, they are inexpensive as are the replacement blades, and more than most other leather tools they have other uses!! - Bill
  14. Unfortunately, there's no standard for beveler sizes. In all cases, the smaller the number the smaller the cut and the thinner the leather you'd use it for, but one brand's #1 might be another brand's #3. It's frustrating! - Bill
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