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Like nvleatherworx said, sale of any amount of those (even one) can get you a cease and decist letter from the companies' legal department. They are required to take action to defend their copyright, trademarks, whatever...because if they don't, then they basically are giving up their claim to it, if that makes sense.So...if anyone sends any of those companies a link to this thread, you could be contacted by them about it. To me, it's not worth it so I don't make stuff like that.

To expand on what Dwight said above, I would recommend only doing one of those things at a time...then test sew and see if the problem persists. That way, you'll know which thing was causing the problem. If you do all of them at the same time without testing between each step, you won't know where the problem was...you might not care where it was, but it would be good to know if it was one specific thing in case it happens again.

Some people say they'll work...my osborne 86 splitter won't do it. Horween is too "squishy", for lack of a better word...instead of splitting, it just gets squeezed thinner through the splitter. My bell knife skiver...I haven't really tried Horween in it. It's a top and bottom feed one, so is really more for heavy veg tanned stuff. I haven't really tried any Horween scraps in it yet...

Well, if it's not veg tanned, there's probably not much you can do. I've had mild success pressing (not hammering) printers' type into Horween. It's lead, so it can't be heated and if you hammer them, they'll deform. I use my book press to press them in. Other than that, you can try to get a Kwikprint or similar heat embossing machine and do imprints that way. You can use various colors of metal foil or none at all...they are expensive though. Hope that helps...

What is it you're making?

I'll send you a PM on how to do that. lol Just kidding....it's the envelope icon at the top right of the page.

I hope you sent some of your business cards with her...lol...

http://www.usacuttingdie.com/

Ok, yeah good luck with that... Sorry, but Horween is notoriously difficult to skive. I'm sure someone will be able to do it for you though. I'm not sure what you mean by your being able to cut it to any width...what I'm asking is what is the final width of the pieces you need done? The reason we need to know that is because the various machines have maximum widths they'll be able to skive. For instance, by bell knife skiver can only do about 2"...so a 4" wide piece would be the maximum it could skive (skive one side, turn it around and do the other side). Hope that makes sense...I could probably do the English bridle for you, but it'd probably be best if you can find someone that will do all of it for you.

You should post a size and also the current thickness of what you have (along with whether it is veg tan or chrome tan) so people will know if they have the machine necessary to do this for you. I have a bell knife skiver and a manual 6" Osborne skiver, but without knowing what you have, I don't know if I can do anything for you.

The pictures show up for me just fine. You might want to have a talk with your network people.

Have you tried a new needle? http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/01/sewing-machine-skipping-stitches/

I'll send you a pm...

Start reading the threads in the forums that interest you and keep doing that until you have more info that you're looking for. Once you do that, if you still have specific questions, then post them...chances are, all the specific questions you will have have probably already been asked and answered on here many times. Don't use the search box at the top of the page. It sucks and you'll never see all the topics applicable to your search. Instead, go to Google and in the search box, type this: site:leatherworker.net how to make horse tack ...or whatever topics you're interested in. You'll get a lot farther faster that way. The search box here on the website is pretty much worthless. Good luck.

Yeah, I wouldn't have figured that either, but they are damn sure faster than any suppliers I've ordered from here. I'm not sure if Abbey England just has their proverbial "stuff" together or the US suppliers are just lazy/stupid or what the problem is, but I avoid ordering from any US supplier at all costs anymore. I don't have time for games, having them sit on their ass and not shipping my order for over a week, getting questionable quality leather or any of that crap...I just don't have the patience for it anymore. I think you'll be happy with Abbey England...they should have most of what you need at fair prices.

Yeah, except Dixon is not in business anymore so don't go trying to look for them because they're gone. I live in Texas and the leather dealers here are such complete **** that even I order from Abbey England. The items cost about the same and I receive my order faster than ordering from the "dealers" in the US. As far as being "pricy", you get what you pay for. Tandy sucks, so I never buy that stuff from anyone in the US or anywhere else.

Posted this in the other thread started on this topic, so posting it here so more people will see it and hopefully unplug their machines unless they're in actual use... Devices/systems that will actually protect against lightning are quite expensive. The best/cheapest way to protect it is to unplug it when it is not in use (i.e. only plug it in when you're going to use it right away and then unplug it afterward.)...and obviously don't sew when lightning is in the area. Yeah, I know that's a pain, but it's less of a pain (and a lot cheaper) than replacing your motor.

Yep...devices/systems that will actually protect against lightning are quite expensive...way more than $30. Best/cheapest way to protect it is to unplug it when it is not in use (i.e. only plug it in when you're going to use it right away and then unplug it afterward.)...and obviously don't sew when lightning is in the area. Yeah, I know that's a pain, but it's less of a pain (and a lot cheaper) than replacing your motor.

OP: Nigel's box video will not help you with the kind of boxes you posted pics of...I sent you a PM just now...

Don't waste your time with the search box at the top of the page....it's worse than worthless. The only effective way to search this site is to go to Google and type this in the box: site:leatherworker.net whatever you're searching for goes here And you'll get FAR better (and actually USABLE) results that way. Oh, and I'm prior service (Army) also...lived in Marshall, TX and Tyler, TX for a while, so familiar with East Texas.

Same here...

I guess I am a little different...I saddle-stitch most items...not so they look crappy and handmade, with "character"...I want my saddle stitching to look as consistent as machine stitching. THAT is the sign of an excellent craftsman. People that see my work don't believe it's hand stitched and I take that as a compliment. I don't think I'd mix machine and hand stitching on the same item...but that's just me. There isn't anything at all inherently wrong with doing that, in my opinion...it's just not something I would do.

Why are you selling them?

....and Dougster...I understand you're ok with the principle of letting them have the $21 so you paid what they should've charged you -- I got that. What we're saying is what she did is dishonest, so it needs to be corrected so she doesn't try that again with you or anyone else. It's not ok for her to do that. A chargeback will straight up get her attention and make sure she doesn't do that again, but a call to TLF corporate could work too. I'm the kind of person, I'd do the chargeback and once I got my money back, I'd dump the stuff on their floor, but that's just me... It shows you're an honorable person wanting to make the transaction right (especially since you had nothing at all to do with the error), but she shouldn't be doing that to people.

Yeah...overstitch wheel...ok for "rustic"...not so ok for fine leatherwork, but that's just my opinion. I used one before, then also used pricking irons and stitching chisels and found that I far preferred both of those to the finished product of an overstitch wheel.