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25b

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Everything posted by 25b

  1. If they're living in the 21st century along with the rest of us, they could email the manual to you.......
  2. Dremel tool works great, plus you can use it for all sorts of other chores...burnishing edges, etc...
  3. I'd recommend buying another set like the one you have now and sanding/grinding the teeth off yourself. Probably will be easier and cheaper than trying to find smooth feet for your machine. I think that's what most smooth "leather" feet are...just standard feet the manufacturer has ground down smooth.
  4. Ok, well where do you live so that people will know whether you're nearby or not?
  5. Most braiders I've watched split them down so that they are the same thickness...
  6. Some people have reported using this successfully... http://www.amazon.com/75mm-Twist-knot-Wire-Brush-Wheel/dp/B00AJ6QTI2 To cut...you know what? I'll send you a PM...
  7. Have you watched this video? ...and the others in the series also...Nigel explains why that happens and how to sew it. You basically have to stitch through some holes twice for it to end up right.
  8. I don't know why this is so hard to understand but DIXON IS NOT IN BUSINESS ANYMORE. Many places that used to sell their tools closed them out back when they stopped making them. Only way you'll probably be able to get one is a used one from Bruce Johnson or on ebay.Shipping costs what it costs. International shipping is expensive because the seller is responsible for getting the item to you. If it goes "missing" (stolen) while in transit, he's required to refund you, so they usually use a shipping method that is trackable. Good luck. You should probably email Bruce and ask him if he can get one for you if you just have to have a Dixon one.
  9. What are you using to finish your edges? Looks a lot better than most Horween edges I've seen on here...
  10. This book is a good start for the leash you're wanting to make... http://www.amazon.com/Braiding-Fine-Leather-Techniques-Australian/dp/0870335448
  11. When you get better at saddle-stitching, you'll start using high contrast thread and leather just to show off how nice your stitching is. I do, anyway. Until then, I notice most folks use black thread on black leather...brown on brown, etc...
  12. I'm not sure which knob you're talking about...are you talking about the one that adjusts the space between the knife and the edge of the opening? Where is the knob located that you're asking about?
  13. Is the blade in the same position as you have it when skiving? If not, put it at that position and sharpen it from there. Also, when you say you're using a "tool" to sharpen it, are you talking about the deburring tool or the stone wheel built into the machine (which should spin while the machine is on if it's engaged)? Finally, watch this video... https://youtu.be/ysGu3LEitYc It's for an FAV machine, but is very, very similar to the Fortuna...
  14. Did you send them an email directly or through the contact form on their website? If you sent it directly, try the webform. Also, if you sent it directly, try sending from a different email address as sometimes messages will end up in their spam folder...
  15. Someone is asking about the same clicker in this thread and says the brand is "Elfita"(?)...never heard of them, but there's a video showing operation in the other thread... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=66800
  16. That looks like the same one shown in the pics in the OP of this thread... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=66006 You might try sending a PM to arocco (since he posted the pics) and see how they like it...
  17. Get this book... http://www.amazon.com/Leatherworking-Handbook-Illustrated-Sourcebook-Techniques/dp/1844034747 And this one...Design & Construction of Handbags. By W C Double If you can't find the second one for sale anywhere, see if you can get it through your local library via inter-library loan. Those should give you a good start in the right direction.
  18. Animal...if you're just wanting to make a bag for yourself or as a gift (i.e. not to sell to anyone), then you can do that. Unless they have an actual patent on the design (very, very rare), then there isn't anything they can really do about it. If you want more info, please PM me....I've done a lot of research on this over the past several years.
  19. Where do you buy your hides? The places I get mine charge a lot more than that...
  20. You have to wax it yourself. Yes, it is used on boats and upholstery because it is UV resistant. It's also used on a lot of gear that will be used outdoors and comes in a very large variety of colors. Here is a chart that gives actual thread dimensions... http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=nylon-thread-information
  21. You could always try V92 polyester thread...that's what I use on my 10SPI items... Some might recommend nylon, but it is not as UV resistant as poly, so that's why I use the poly thread...
  22. I would definitely bevel the edges and at the very least burnish them with wax... If you don't bevel the edges, they'll get messed up with use over time...
  23. You should burnish and finish the edges...if you don't, it won't look or feel "finished". Some people call it "rustic", but that's really just code for "I'm too lazy to put in the time/work/effort to make an exceptional product..." I'm not saying that's what you are doing...but it's an easy trap to fall into... If you don't have the right color edge coat, buy it. It's sort of a waste of time to put all that effort into making a nice belt and then not finishing it properly because you don't have the right color edge finish. If you just really, really don't want to do it, you should at least bevel the edges and use wax (paraffin or beeswax) or gum tragacanth or something like that to seal them...
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