25b

What material did they make them from? Did you send your own CAD drawing or did you use their application to make the file? Do you know if they will accept .ai files?

From the first post in this thread... Oddly enough, it is called "HOW TO MAKE WHIPS"......by RON EDWARDS. http://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Whips-Bushcraft-Edwards/dp/0870335138/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443123105&sr=8-1&keywords=ron+edwards+whip+braiding

Got what from front panel express??

Hard to believe no one has any patterns for these.

Says, "El Cajon, CA", right there in the title of the post.

He answered this four posts above yours... So I would contact that seller and see if they have any available at the moment.

Anyone???

I was specifically addressing what davidl was saying about the holes getting bigger if you use them on both sides of your work. You *can* do this, but you shouldn't be hammering the crap out of the irons anyway......if you just use them to *mark* the stitches and use your awl to open them up, then either pricking irons or stitching chisels will work well this way. But if you're whacking the #### out of them so that the holes are getting bigger, then you're not using them correctly. That's all I was saying and I think I clarified in the last part of the last sentence in my previous post.

You don't do this with pricking irons, ok??? I'm talking about using stitching chisels --- the prongs on those are the same width all the way up so the holes DO NOT get bigger the farther in they go, alright? This method is for stitching chisels only...not for pricking irons...unless you're very, very careful to only mark the other layers.

This may not work for you, but I line up the front and back pieces, hit my stitching chisel so it goes through the front and just barely into the back side of the bottom layer. Then, I can usually see the center points through the front side of the bottom layer and I line up the stiching chisel and punch the rest after lining up that way.

I'm saying they sell something they CALL "English" bridle which isn't made in England and does not have the same qualities as real English bridle leather. And yes, I've used both.

Maybe it was your post I was thinking of. I have had traumatic brain injury in the past, so sometimes my short-term memory isn't very good.Best way to search is go to google and type in: site:leatherworker.net whatever you want to search for here ...and it'll find your post...then you can copy the link to it and post it. It's not too complicated since I am able to do it.

69 pound thread? Do you possibly mean V69 SIZE thread? Because if you are, the "69" does not mean 69 pound tensile strength. V69 polyester thread has a tensile strength of 11 pounds...not 69. I know it may sound like I'm being pedantic, but tensile strength is very important in some applications, so I want to be clear about that in case someone read what you posted and wrongly concluded that v69 thread has a tensile strength of 69 pounds. It is an important distinction to make and it's important to speak precisely about things like this for the sake of accurate information.On your other issues, if you have loops on the bottom, you need more TOP tension...not bottom (bobbin) tension. Check that your threading is correct, including the direction the thread goes through the needle. Make sure your needle is installed correctly with the scarf facing the correct direction. Make sure your bobbin is inserted so that it comes out correctly, per the manual. Finally, I would very highly recommend both of you take a beginning sewing class so you can learn the basics of sewing. It will help a lot to master the basics before taking on larger projects like what you're trying to do now. At the very least, sit down and watch a bunch of youtube videos on various sewing techniques. Sailrite has some decent instructional videos on youtube, for instance.

For straps, get a plough gauge and you won't hate cutting straps anymore.

Calling "stitching chisels" "pricking irons" is really confusing new folks trying to understand the difference. I will no longer call them all the same thing...from now on, I will only be calling them by their correct name to try to reduce confusion for new folks. There is another recent thread on here where Art defines each tool. I highly recommend people use those terms in order to most accurately describe whichever tool they're talking about. Calling every single tool a "pricking iron" helps no one.

Oh, good so you don't mind that I just ignored your signature then, right?

Well, I tried searching for this (using google, so it would actually find posts) and though I did find a couple of threads, they weren't really what I was looking for... I'd like to find a good pattern for US military putees (leather leggings) as used around WWI. The kind I'm looking for are the ones that have a leather strap that wraps around the calf from the ankle to the top and buckles there. There is also another strap and buckle at the top edge. I have everything I need to make them, I just need a good pattern to use. I've already looked around on multiple reenactment forums (wildbunch, etc.) and was not able to find any patterns on those forums. Thanks for any help.

Thank you for actually trying and ultimately validating what I said. There are so many people on here that just want to argue and post some knee-jerk response of "YOU CAN'T DO THAT!!!" without even trying it...it's refreshing when someone takes what I post at face value and then finds out I'm really not full of crap. So...thanks again for that... I'm glad it works for you...

Look up leather machine belting and see if that'll work for you...

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=59551

Well, the built-in search on here really sucks, so the best way it to go to google and type in: site:leatherworker.net whatever you want to search for here Probably something like "pricking iron both sides" (without the quotes) might pull them up... And then you should be able to find the threads...they were from around 3-6 months ago, I think...if I have time later, I'll see if I can find them...I just get tired of repeating myself and also someone else explained it where it made sense better than I could in the previous threads... I've begun pretty much exclusively using stitching chisels lately due to the cast improvement in consistency I have with them...you can do the same thing with them (punch both sides), but have to be careful to only punch through each single layer on the front and back...not all the way through. Some jerks will probably come on here and reply saying "you can't do that", but I have proof that I can because that's the only way I sew all my hand-sewn items now and it works very, very well.

When it starts to skip stitches...or breaks, which happens very rarely anymore.

1. One is not *required* to use reverse/portmanteau pricking irons to mark the back side of the stitching. Myself and many others have successfully used the regular pricking irons to mark both the front and back sides of our work and the result is very nice, slanted stitches on both sides, so...it is possible to do this without having to buy reverse pricking irons. There is a technique to it (which I and others have discussed on here before ad nauseum so I'm not going to do it again here...) 2. If you want your holes to all be the same direction straight through, you still don't need to buy the "reverse" pricking irons...just refer to Nigel's video which I linked to above for marking multiple layers and then use your diamond awl to open up the holes all the way through. Also, per Nigel, it's best to allow rubber cement (Barge's, et al) to set for 24 hours before stitching. I do this now after him telling me that and I find it works very well. Much better than only a brief wait.

Yeah, that can work too...but the reason I prefer individual sizing belts is because in my experience, customers are extremely stupid and if there's a way for them to screw up reading a number off a belt with multiple numbers on it, they'll find a way to do it. With individual sizing belts, they try one on until they find the one that fits and then it has just that one number on it. It just helps eliminate any chance of error and like I said, I've found some very, very, VERY stupid customers in my years of selling custom gear.

Easily found by searching for Isis-design on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/sch/Isis-design/m.html?_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1