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25b

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Everything posted by 25b

  1. I wholeheartedly agree with this. I do not patronize companies that play this game. Under 13 ounces can ship first class mail for about $3 to $5...I've had some vendors send it 1st class (while the postage amount wasn't printed on the label, I ship my items first class, so I know EXACTLY what it costs to do that) and even though they only paid around $3 in postage, I get charged $15...that's not "handling"...that's just a big, fat rip-off and I won't participate in that. Another thing that makes me angry is charging more for shipping based on the dollar amount of the order. That's just completely wrong on many levels and if I'm forced to buy from a company that does that, I will make sure I buy as few things as possible from them and then buy the bulk of my supplies from sellers that DON'T do that. Pricing shipping based on the price of the order is a REALLY good way to make people not want to spend any money buying from you.
  2. Yeah, that is the problem I have with people calling their stuff "English" bridle leather when it isn't any such thing. I will keep buying Sedgwick. Might be hard for you to get for some reason, but not for me.
  3. Here's how to fix the belt damage problem... Make up a few various sized, untooled, plain belt straps constructed the same way you do the tooled ones, but not tooled...these should be used for the person to find the right size. The actual tooled belts stay locked in a display case so people can see them...when they want to buy one, they try one one of the plain sizing belts (which you'll have marked with the size (38", 40", 42", etc.)...once they know which size they need, they can choose one of your tooled belts from the display case, BUY IT, then wear it and scratch it up all they want. That's how I would do it anyway...no one needs to be playing around with my belts and potentially damaging them until they've already bought it. No one will care if they damage your fine work unless they've already paid for it...then they'll be careful with it.
  4. Who makes the "English" bridle you sell? Is it actually, really made in England (Sedgwick) or in mexico or some other non-England country? I've used Wickett & Craig bridle before and it's ok, but it's no comparison to Sedgwick...I'll pretty much only use Sedgwick anymore now.
  5. 25b

    Shell Cordovan

    Hope you have deep pockets. Right now it's selling for about $140 per shell, plus shipping.
  6. What is the maximum width leather (and thickness) this will skive?
  7. 25b

    Cowboy 3200?

    What does the back side of your stitching from your CB3200 look like? Care to share? Because mine looks like garbage and no one apparently has any ideas to offer to fix it. It's not a rat's nest....(I know how to use the machine correctly).....the back side stitches just look pulled in really tight, even with the presser foot pressure almost all the way off. I've seen other people post the same problem with their CB3200 on here and never get a solution either, so.....not sure why that is..
  8. DR80.....sending you a PM re: "drilling" holes... Also, just watch Nigel's video I gave the link to above about multiple layers. That is the best way to do it.
  9. No... Also, if you're going to glue all your layers together first and try it that way, yes, it will be hard to get them "perfect"...so get them as close as possible and then use either a VERY sharp knife to trim them all to be exactly flush or use a belt sander to do so..........IF you're going to do it that way (glue all layers together and then stitch)....
  10. Sent you an email about a couple of things, but will post this part here for others' use... Nigel Armitage's wallet pattern set is very useful...I've bought it and made a few wallets using his patterns and they work great. The patterns are easy to follow. Here is the link to where he sells his patterns. I have no affiliation except as a customer of his. http://www.armitageleather.com/shop/4583584113
  11. Make the holes first and then skive the edges. Then they'll be straight through.
  12. How much leather are you willing to buy? Even if you do find out who makes the "real" leather Indian uses, they probably aren't going to sell you just one hide or less.
  13. Sounds like you should organize a group buy with others that don't want to order a lot of hides. That way you can meet their minimum and order from tannery row. Looks like there's plenty of people that would participate in a group buy from the responses on this thread and others that have posted other threads wanting to buy horween leather.
  14. You might want to go ahead and try "getting technical" because I'm not sure I understand your question... I'll try to answer anyway though...but again, I may not understand what you're asking...but what I'd recommend is a horizontal pouch with a metal stud closure. That way, the pen clips don't have to be used. I dislike having to put my pens in a pouch that uses a strip of leather because it usually stretches out the pen clip and makes it loose.
  15. Tannery Row sells it. Or you just don't want to order from them?
  16. .8 is too large for small items, in my opinion. Even .6 is too large sometimes, but .8 is way too big...I'd never use it, even on my heavy belts.
  17. Why don't you go have a look? http://www.thetanneryrow.com/
  18. Enrique Capone's first book (Rawhide and Leather Braiding - 1) covers the five thong applique pretty well and gives info on how to make it look correct when done in a circular pattern. And before anyone asks, 1. No, I don't have any way to scan and post the instructions from his book (no scanner). 2. It would likely violate his copyright to do that and 3. You should go ahead and order the book anyway...it is a very useful reference...
  19. Gee, I mentioned this exact same problem with my own CB3200 a while back... Nevermind. I have a migraine right now and don't have the patience to do this right now... I sent you a PM...
  20. 25b

    Machines?

    You can't find a machine that will do all that for less than $1000. Next question.
  21. I do it on my items...makes the edges less clunky / bulky....do whatever you want though. You don't "need" to do anything. You asked for advice and I replied. I do tell my potential buyers that I do that and explain why...and also how to tell if the competition isn't skiving their edges. On second thought, nevermind...don't skive your edges.
  22. The Seiwa ones are diamond shaped.
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