25b

One thing I've noticed about huns is he pretty much never answers anyone's questions. I don't know if it's a language barrier thing (possible) or what, but don't anyone hold your breath about getting any information about anything from him. Not complaining or meant to be rude or anything else like that, so please do not read extra things into what I said that I *didn't* say. I am simply lowering everyone's expectations of getting an answer to their questions.

I was practicing my saddle stitching last night and wanted to see the difference between some thread I bought in Japan and the Barbour's thread I just received. I'll have to get specifics on the sizes later, but they were similar in size... This pic shows the Japanese thread on the right side and Barbour's on the left... The Japanese thread is definitely "fuzzy"...there are fibers coming off the thread all along the thread, straight out of the package...not caused by sewing... And here is a front and back of the Barbour's...("Front")... Back side... Stitching has been hammered flat on the last two pics and Seiwa 3mm stitching chisels were used to punch the holes... Anyway, thought this might help someone looking for info on either of these threads...

I bought some Sedgewick bridle leather and just received it yesterday...it is beautiful leather, but boy is it waxy. It was so waxy that at first all the white areas on it looked like the surface had been heavily abraded in those spots...but it was just wax. A whole lot of it! Got some Italian bridle leather at the same time and it seemed even nicer...not as much wax, but the color was a really nice, warm variety of London Tan. Still like Wickett & Craig leather too and still have some of it to use yet.

I think his videos are probably as close as you can get to private tutoring by him without actually going to England. They are very easy to understand, at least for me. He explains things very well and his reviews are very fair and impartial. Again, in my opinion.

Youtube.com - Nigel Armitage Pricking iron reviews. Watch all of them. I have the Seiwa ones and they're the best I've used.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Where+is+Newark%2C+tx

+1000 I agree with Art...it looks like you're buying a bunch of stuff you don't know anything about, getting info on it from everyone else, then turning around and selling it on your website, ebay, etc. Not very cool in my opinion...how many of these threads have you started exactly like this one over the past couple days anyway??

By contrast, I can't think of a valid reason to cut a stitch groove on things like Field Notes cases, for instance. So I just mark my stitch like everyone with my divider and have nice, neat, slanted, 10SPI stitches.

I would also recommend that if you *know* there's a tool you do need and really will use, check with Bruce Johnson. He may have it at a fair price and it'll be ready to use when you get it. I've been happy with the tools I've bought from him. Just a happy customer.

Had some time to kill last weekend and stopped by a Tandy store...was going to buy one of their "pro" diamond awl blades...until I found out they wanted some ridiculous amount of money for it...I think it was around $25...that was just for the blade. No handle. No thanks. And their leather selection and leather quality was pretty pathetic too.

Yeah, I'd skive the edges of the outside layer and the inner liner...just to reduce the bulk on the edges. Yes, it will be thicker in the middle...but that's what I do on my wallets and field notes cases...it works pretty well...

Just to save anyone any excitement, that place wants $36.24 to ship their "free" sample to you if you are in the United States. Oh, and I highly recommend Matt T...while you're buying edge paint from him, make sure and get some thread too...it's good stuff!

I haven't had to...well, not for that reason anyway. I've done it to make it thinner of course, but not because the back was in bad shape...

That's what I'd do, but then I'd also skive the edges so that it's not huge and bulky there...

I don't think I've ever seen leather separate like that...that is really odd... I don't know what to tell you...I wouldn't be happy with that leather, but maybe my standards are messed up... If I were forced to use it, I would probably split it down to get rid of whatever is causing it to come apart like that, then glue two strips flesh-to-flesh and use it that way...I don't like the way the flesh side looks there at all...

Where did you get that leather?

Pictures would be helpful to diagnose what's going on here...

Err...I wasn't intending any sarcasm in my last post...that was meant to be an earnest "thank you" for the info...

Oh...hmm...ok, well great...thanks for this info...

Wow. Ok, well if you're just dying to know what that is and how to do it, I'd recommend going on facebook and joining the Rawhide and Roo Braiders' Guild group and ask on there. Someone in there will likely know as there are a lot of very proficient braiders that are not on this forum.

Yeah, I'm still not understanding...the way you explained it here, it sounds like you're not using turned edges...

It's just called that because "Rawhide and Roo Braiders, Knot Tyers, Plaitters, Edge Braiders, and anything Else Concerning Interweaving Leather Guild" would have been unnecessarily cumbersome. There are people that do all the things you listed there...I think you'll find it helpful.

I'm having a hard time picturing this...it looks like it works great, so I want to understand it...having a difficult time with it though...

When I made the iPad case from Nigel's pattern, I used a veg retanned double shoulder and that was plenty for all the pieces and I had about 3-4 square feet left over, if that helps. I learned about the different types of leather by reading...a lot....a whole lot. Both on here, but also in leatherworking books.

If you don't share an irrational phobia of Facebook like others on here, check out the Rawhide and Roo Braiders' Guild group on there. Some of the stuff in there will blow your mind.....there are some quite prolific braiders that are members there.