The 17/22/31 are the full length slides while the 19/23/32 are the mid length slides. Only the length of the slides/barrels are different between the two groups. But while a G19 will work in a holster made for a G17, the G17's muzzle will stick out of a holster made specifically to fit the G19.
I use your second option :). I built myself a couple double layer 1.5" wide belt strip samples. One is a full 1/4" thick and the other is a little thinner.
Thanks all.
Dwight - the leather is 8/9 oz.
JLS - you are correct in what you see. Although the elephant color is actually safari grey. But yeah the camera gave it a blue hue.
I just finished these two 1911 holsters. These are 4" and 5" versions of the same pattern. The cant is 25*. They are built using Hermann Oak leather, 1mm Tigre Thread, Fiebing's Pro Oil dyes and finished with Angelus 605 satin finish.
Here is a recent set I made for a customer. It is for a 5" 1911, has a 15* cant and is accented with caiman tail. The caiman started out cognac in color. I applied some Cordovan oil dye on it. I really like the dark and light effects.
They are indentions from molding around the thumb safeties. They are in the cocked and lock position. The guard actually stops at the end of the slide so the beavertail and hammer are past the top of the holster.
The belt I am wearing right now is a unstitched 1.5" gun belt. I wear it daily and have been for 3 years now. I work 12 hour shifts and on my work days I end up wearing it for at least 14 hours. The edges still look as good as they did when I received it. I am truely amazed by how well it has held up.
This pic is when it was a week old. It still looks that good today. The exotic is Elephant and there is a inner piece between the Elephant and the back panel. I wish I knew what glue the builder uses.
I have to agree that there is not enough or atleast the right parts of the leg left to make it work. These two colors are probably not a great look together either. But if you did have larger pieces getting them to mate up together is not difficult at all. Just use some thin leather under the leg to get it to the same thickness as the other exotic. Then match the cut pattern to one another. When gluing them onto the same panel of leather be sure to press them tightly up against one another. This is where getting the joint cut correct really shows its importance. As for looks using Ostrich legs with another exotic, my preferance would be to have the plates centered and starting from the outside running into the center of the other exotic.
This is the railed 5" from above but after applying the Angelus finish to it. You can see the difference in the color of the Ostrich Leg between the two.
Before finish
After finish
What ever weight is needed to get you to your desired thickness. For example if you use 8oz then two 4oz pieces glued flesh to flesh will give you 8oz of smooth on both side leather. It could also be a 6oz + a 2oz or a 3oz + a 5oz etc etc.
But even that changes from chisel/iron manufacture to manufacturer. I have irons from different places that are both labeled as 4mm yet they have different tpi from what I assume is how they are measured to get that number.
This is for black aluminum. The ones markes 3/16 blind are what you are seeking. They have grey as well but it is not gun metal grey. https://www.chicagoscrews.com/Black-Aluminum-Chicago-Screws