Bolt Vanderhuge

There are many more experienced members that may have a better solution but I would rub in a light amount of neats foot oil. It will soften it back up. I have found, that instead of cutting the Fiebings with DA, if I completely wet the leather and give it a few minutes for the water to migrate thru all the fibers then dip dye in non cut dye, the color stays lighter and colors perfectly even while the leather stays soft. I only dip for a few seconds and then pat the leather with a paper towel to get any excess off. At the end of the leather drying I will rub the item with a soft cloth and I get no to almost no rub off.

I am experimenting with using wax mixtures for finishing holsters and am wondering a few things. 1. When using a wax mixture for the outside what do you use for the inside? 2. Do any of you also apply an acrylic finish like Resolene or one of the others? 2a. If yes, do you apply before or after the wax? The wax mix I am trying out right now is a 1:1:1/2 mix of beeswax/paraffin/neatsfoot oil. I just used the wax mix for the first time today and it really did not give it the sheen I am used to or should I say, as much as I like, for my holsters. It did, however, firm up the holster a bit which was needed with the leather I used. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

I tried it once but did not cut it 50/50. I did use a nicely wet sponge to apply but did get streaks. I used alcohol to rub it off which also took off some of the dye and made a cool distressed looking finish in the end. I just bought an air brush kit and am ready to give it a try again. I will cut it this time. It is good to see that this method should produce good results.

Very nice work there.

Very nice work as usual. I am getting ready to do my first belt. I am procrastinating since I have to sew it by hand. I also have a DW revolver that I need to build at least 2 holsters for. I currently have both a 6" and a 2.5" barrel for it and will probably pick up a 4" barrel for it in the future. Something along the lines of this one looks like a good choice for the 6" version.

I have not bought any from this site yet but I have it bookmarked so I can soon. The one I have been using I got off of Ebay. http://leatherburnishers.com/Burnishers-for-Dremel.html

Thank you both. I really like snap on holsters too. I took it off to show someone at the range yesterday. Had it off in 10 seconds or less. Back on in about 30-45 seconds or so to put back on with just one hand and without looking.

I use glycerin/dish soap and a powered cocobolo burnisher before dying the edge. Then after dying I use smooth plastic pen. Then I rub paraffin wax and use the pen again. After the whole project is finished I put Renasaince wax on it which really gives a nice finish on an already smooth finish.

This is my latest holster. Like the title states it is for a (mine) P938 and is a snap on OWB. The color on this one is Mahogany outside, grey inside with grey elephant accent piece and straps. It is smooth inside, low ride height and 30* cant. I had made one with 18* of cant and found that the extended mag would print on me no matter where I wore the holster. This holster solved that. Those that have shot a P938 probably know that the 7rnd extended mag is very beneficial as it gives a place for your pinkie.

Are you using a tracing style groover like the one in my link? It follows the edge and gives you a groove that it the same distance from the edge all the way around.

Whether straight, curved or angled smooth flowing lines and transitions will go along way towards getting you to be closer to what Milt holsters look like. This includes the stitch lines as well as the edges. For making my holster designs I start with a pattern for the gun pocket. Then I add in my belt lines equal to the width of my belt at the cant and ride height Iwant for the holster. Then I figure out how wide the holster needs to be based on my belt loop/strap locations. From there I can now start making flowing lines between the outer most points of the sides down to the muzzle end and up to the sweat guard if used. I do this on cardboard so it is easily traced onto the leather and I do it in pencil so I can erase unwanted lines. Once you have the two halves glued together and the edges sanded, you can use a groover such as this one http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-adjustable-groover. Or if just making a stitch line without making a groove for the thread to lay in you can use a compass or something similar. You will still need to do freehand for the gun pocket but then your pocket pattern can help you with that. This is my first holster. This is my latest holster. It is my 9th one and I am still learning as I go. I try to learn from each one I do and apply it to the next one. Looks like you are willing to do the same and that should go along way for you.

For your Colt 4" option if you go with that one it might be wise to do it as a 4.25" true commander size.

Wow for $89 that is great. I have been debating on getting one. At that price it seems a no brainer.

The beauty of the Chicago post is that it looks nice and does not need to be hidden. Many people leave the t-nuts exposed which is what I was referring too. For the op hiding the t-nut will work if they are using double layers for both front and rear pieces of the holster. If not the t-nuts would have to be exposed.

Chicago screw posts look much better than the t-nuts if you really want to add that finishing touch. This site sells the posts by themselves : http://www.rivetsonline.com/binder-posts/black-aluminum-binder-posts-screws.html?sef_rewrite=1 Here is an example I found online. http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0209/9310/products/WLW_Mag-pouch-snap_back_grande.jpg?v=1380124504[img/]

It was what the customer wanted right? Barring their realization of the challenges presented by their design request I would expect them to be completely happy with your craftsmanship.

I line my holsters with Kangaroo as well as use exotics on the outside. I do just like Shooter described. The veg tanned piece is cut to actual shape and glued to slightly larger exotics/roo.I then trim the exotics/roo to the same size as the veg. Stitching is done on any open areas before attaching front and back pieces together. I do not wrap the exotic around the edges. I treat them as if they were the same as a non exotic edge.

The studs are sometimes different too. I have 3 different Tandy sets where only one set's stud works with the POT sockets. So I order the sockets and studs from the POT line but order caps from the Durable line in several lengths. Since I screw the studs on I buy just the posts of Chicago screw sets and then various length 8/32 flat machine screws.

Cool video. You make it look so easy.

I bought a Tandy set (one shaft with several heads that screw in) and found many burrs on them. I used 800 grit sand paper and sanded the burrs and then sharpened the tips when I was done. It made them easier to punch thru and pull out of the leather. Since then I bought some new ones from China and they came very sharp and smooth. No need to sharpen them. I use a thick wood cutting board under my leather when using them.

Very nice work. I like the selection of contrasting colors.

I line my holsters with Kangaroo.

I voted. The veg tanned is now at 12 and the k-whip is at 6.

Any idea what the prices would be like? I don't want to sign up for something that is more expensive then the $120 a hide I pay now.

This particular Buffalo (American Buffalo) with the thickness it was at and the tanning process was very very soft and spongy. It did not want to hold any tooling shapes or marks. In fact I even had to go over the natural lines that you see in the pics as they almost disappeared during the forming process. The thickness of it that you can see in the pics is after skiving a bit. My blade went dull and I did not want to wait till I could run over to Tandy's for more. It started out at close to 9oz and I took it down to around 7oz. I took the straps down to 4oz or so and it became a bit less spongy. I was able to add firmness to it by applying Fiebing's USMC black dye to it and then it held tooling lines better. I had to use edge cote on the edges to be able to burnish the buffalo portion of the edges. I must say the buffalo presented some challenges for sure. But I can also say that I learned quite a bit from this holster to help me with future holsters and exotic hides.