Bolt Vanderhuge

Sandwhich the top between two pieces of thinner leather than you would be using normally. Or use a liner and put the top between the liner and the outer leather piece. Same effect either way. Also try using a bottom post vs a top post as the bottom post is usually flat vs the decrative dome that a top post usually has. In this pic I am referring to the one on the left as the one to use vs the top post that is on the right side. Some of these are flat and featureless unlike this one in the pic. But hopefully this helps anyways.

Very nice work.

Very cool. Very cool indeed. Thanks for sharing.

The leather likely stretched as you bent it. So now you have extra leather with no place to go but out leaving you with the wrinkles you have.

Did you bend the belt while the leather was still moist? That could be from oiling or, dying, glueing or wetting.

For punching two layers try punching your outside panel before attatching it to the inside panel. Then after they are attatched you will find it very easy to punch thru the second layer. Also the surface that you are punching on should be solid. Too much give or softness below your project will absorb some of the impact and reduce the effectiveness of your blows. GumTrag is for getting fibers to lay down and stay down. It will do nothing for the seam that you are asking about. You need to get both panels to be even whether thru slicingshaving or sanding.

I do none of what alpha mentioned yet I get very nice edges without a seem. The glue that you use though could cause this issue like alpha mentioned. I use Tandy's Bond contact cement and brush it until it is wet leather so there is no extra glue. After letting the glue set up I put the two panels together and run my hands over the glued area to make sure they make full contact. But I do not add weight, clamp, or hammer the panels together. After that I use a razor blade to trim any hang over of one panel over the other. I make sure that both panels are now exactly the same before moving forward. When beveling the edges I again make sure that the panels are even by running the beveler over the edge seem after beveling. After dying and burninshing I will run some 320 or 400 grit sandpaper over the edge then redye as needed. Then burnish again and then sand again if necessary. Repeat if necessary. Once satisfied I then apply my finish. When the finish is dry I burnish again. All my burnishing is by hand but I only have to spend a couple minutes each time to get good results. The prep work of making sure the panels are even and smooth really cuts down on the rest of the work. Oh I should add that I dye my edges, I do not use edge cote. This first pic here the holster is lined so it is 4 layers of leather. If you look at the flash lit area you can kind of make out one of the seems.

Gap? can you provide more info and pics of the issue?

You are welcome.

Dot fasteners sells all parts separately. I use these caps with pull the dot one way snaps. They have other colors and post lengths. They also have actual marked pull the dot caps on another page. Look around the site. They probably have what you need. http://www.dotfasteners.com/durabletm-caps-2162.html

I am not quite sure what snap fastener rivots are but these guys might have what you are lokking for. They have each part and you can buy just the items you want. these are their Durabell caps but if you search the site you will find many other items http://www.dotfasteners.com/products/?wfc_product_brand=898&wfc_product_type=703

While the plates are the desired part of the leg, I can't imagine wearing a watch with a band wide enough for the plates. I personally would utilize the wrinkly sections at the start of the plates for a small item like this. As for weither the plates would stay down or lift I can't say. They stay down on the holsters I have used them on. I have ran the perpendicular to the gun on flat backed holsters where they go up over and down and they stay flat. But these do not get flexed and bent like a watch band does.

It will burnish exactly the same.

That looks awesome.

Looks good Josh. Fiebings tans and browns do that to me too. I have had it happen regardless of dying before or after. I dip dye and the color looks perfect until I get it wet for forming or from applying the finish. Some only have a few darkish spots and some will be marbled all over.

Thank you guys. Yes that is elephant.

Thank you Matt.

Made some new holsters for my p938 Sig. Both are smooth lined inside. Leather is Hermann Oak with inside and outside leather combined to be 3.6oz - 3.8oz. Cant on both is 25* and the ride height is mid-lo. I love how thin this gun is.

I have only worked once with Caiman tail. No other variant of croc/gator though. I did not have any issue burnishing the edges but you might be working with thinner stuff which adds to the difficulty level. I treated my edges like normal using black oil dye on them and a standard hand burnisher. I also found that the caiman tail, although being cognac in color, was able to take dye easily on all of it. The raised sections and the edges of each row ended up darker than the rest of the plates/scales.

Side note post here I transferred my funds right after the above post and in less than 12 hours the funds posted in my account. Wow. That is quite an improvement from up to 4 days like it used to be.

Noticed that too this past week. This also reminds me that I need to transfer the funds in my Paypal account to my bank account so I can buy some things from them.

Looks good. Are you gonna make one with the plates on it?

Thank you gentlemen.

Thank you all.

This is a Ruger lc9/lc9s holster with matching single mag pouch. The holster has a 5 degree can't. The set is smooth lined inside and left natural in color. The accent is brown Ostrich leg. I used some 6/7 and 2/3 Hermann Oak that I had on hand. The holster ended up at roughly 10 For the back and 9.5 for the front. I like this total thickness. I have been debating on getting more 8/9 or moving to 9/10. I think 9/10 will be what I get next.