YinTx

Ok, this is the first time I've seen someone hijack a thread for advertising purposes only. I would think the best place to put comments like this is in your own thread in the marketplace: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=78. Others may be less inclined to be insulted, and more inclined to visit your web page and purchase something. just my .02, intended to be helpful. YinTx

So before I purchased my stitching irons and hand stitching thread, I searched around for comparisons of the different threads and irons and how they looked side by side. I watched all the Armitage videos, but did not see all the different samples side by side to actually make a comparison. I have seen one or two comparisons of different brands of threads, but nothing that allowed apples to apples and apples to oranges looks. So, I made a card that compared 7 different stitching irons, all around 7 SPI, some 4MM, and using 3 different sizes of linen thread (Campbell's Satin Laid Linen Thread), and 1 Ritza Tiger thread 0.6mm for comparison. The 0.6mm Ritza and 7SPI seem to be a common combination, and linens are fairly common too, so I thought this would be a good place to start. If someone wants to see a particular combination, with a different type of thread or SPI, let me know and I'll see what I can do. It was interesting to me to see how different the marks were, yet how subtle the differences were in the actual pattern of the stitch. I am not a master stitcher yet, so some of the differences are no doubt due to my inconsistencies, but I think it is somewhat clear which irons do and don't work with which threads. The 132 thread is some pretty heavy stuff, but I enjoyed working with it and really liked how it came out on some of the rows. I still need some practice to get the back of my 532 stitching to be more even, but some of it is passable, I think. I hope this comparison is useful to someone out there. The various irons used on each row, top to bottom: Old Joseph Dixon 7SPI Abbey England EconoStitch 7SPI CS Osborne 609-7 7SPI European Style Stitching Iron from Ebay 4MM Kyoshin Elle 3.5MM Ebay stitching iron 3.85MM (about 7SPI) Ebay Stitching Punch 4MM Thread used from Left to right when viewed from the top of the stitch: Campbell's Satin Laid Linen Thread 532, beige Campbell's Satin Laid Linen Thread 332, beige Campbell's Satin Laid Linen Thread 132, beige Ritza Tiger 0.6MM braided polyester thread, Cream Front side and back side images before tapping down with a hammer, and after. Images of the marks made by the tools. Images of the tools. Gallery with higher resolution images here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=gallery&album=2727 YinTx

I just picked up a bunch of Cambell's Satin Laid Linen thread, in a variety of colors and weights. To me, it seems slightly better than Barbours, and not quite as tightly wound as Fil Au Chinois. But this is pretty subjective, I don't have information in front of me like tensile strength, etc. I like each of them, and will use them depending on the item I am making. I have stitched with Tiger also, and it is a different animal than Linen. Tiger does not have any thread smaller than 0.6mm that I know of, and most of the linens I have seen do not get into the larger diameters like the Tiger thread does. I like having the variety available to suit whichever item I am making, and thread, although expensive, is not the most expensive part of your project. However, done well or poorly it can make or break a project, in my humble opinion. To answer your questions on lengths, it really depends on the weight (diameter) of the thread. Most of the 50 gram linen spools seem to have about 250 meters of thread on them. YinTx

splitrail, I had a similar experience lately here in South Texas with the Barge contact cement. It has been working great, and then recently in the heat and humidity, it seemed to falter. I was able to separate the two pieces, where I would not have been able to recently. I thought maybe it had to do with the age of the can, so I opened a new can, it had the same problem. In fact, when I was sanding the edges, I was able to pull the cement out from between the layers after they had been hammered together, like a rubber band. I reapplied a different glue to bond the pieces together before finishing. It was clear that the cement had not bonded to the leather fibers at all, since it came out with no fibers attached. This was after letting the cement set for about 30 minutes to be slightly tacky to dry to the touch prior to putting the pieces together. I am really inclined to believe with this experience that heat and humidity had something to do with it, but I don't see the chemistry that supports my experience. YinTx

I've just built an excel spreadsheet to do the work. Not the best, I've used real MRO programs such as SAP and Maximo for materials purchasing, warehouse inventory and usage, so I know what it can look like, but for someone small like me, I can't justify spending much $$ on a new program. I think some have used Quicken and other programs, but I don't know how well it works. I am very interested in knowing what others do as well. YinTx

I think for comparisons, everyone would have to comment on speed based on technique (punch through with chisel, awl, dremel?), leather thickness/layers, type of leather (oiled? chrome tanned? veg tanned?) size and type of thread, and complexity of stitch pattern (straight line? curves? using a nice pony or horse or holding it in your lap? Care what the stitch looks like in the end? etc.) I too would like to know how my stitching speed compares, but so many variables that it is almost impossible to compare. Unless everyone was willing to make a two layer belt 44" long out of 3 to 4 oz veg tanned leather, using a 7 stitch/inch pricking iron with an awl (stitch marking included in the time), 18/3 linen thread, and a stitching horse, then post beginning and end times with inches/hour calculated, and the end result photographed and posted, both front and backside of stitches displayed. And maybe some other variables I didn't consider in there... just sayin. My stitching has varied from 8"/hour to 24"/hour depending on all these variables. YinTx Just thought to myself: Maybe this would make a good "Keep making stuff Challenge" for June.... we could draw in a lot of comparisons then! YinTx

Cool idea on the lacing for the mason jar coozie! I can see using that here in S. Texas on a hot sweltering day for a nice cold sweet iced tea... YinTx

Very clean looking, and great stitching! I hope they sell well for you. YinTx

Looks like you have a tremendous amount of hours in this one. I've never tooled, so can't be a judge, but I really like the way it came out. YinTx

Really nice work, perfect lines. Love the color: what did you use for that? YinTx

Made a significant amount of progress yesterday. Still need to finish edging, and made plenty of errors, so pretty much a practice prototype. Stitching on suede I have discovered is difficult, as well as soft chrome tan leather (the pink material). Small stuff, like the stitched chocolate dyed tabs, really highlight inconsistencies. I am wondering, since I used the same thread throughout, and the veg tanned section looks larger than the chrome tanned section, if I should have used different sized threads to try to make it look the same? Images here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=gallery&album=2624 YinTx

Absolutely stunning, I am in awe. Keep on tappin, your work is incredible. Thanks for sharing it! YinTx

Thank you, DoubleC! YinTx

Making a tiny bit of progress... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=29046 YinTx

I wanted to practice hand stitching with my new tools, so I made a guitar strap. It is lined and has about 11 feet of stitching, so plenty of practice! It is the first guitar strap I have made, so please let me know what you think. I still have to put the slots on each end... More photos here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=gallery&album=2687 YinTx

Is that crocodile or Caimen Alligator? I have some Caimen, and I am trying to figure out how to finish it, it has a very dull look like a veg tanned leather. How did you finish yours? Thanks, YinTx

Thanks for the business, Pit! YinTx

Sold. Thanks all! YinTx

As a side note, just noticed that Dangerous Beans hasn't been online since April 7th, so I haven't had the chance to upset him since he was last here. YinTx

Nuttish, These are brand new, so I am hoping that there is absolutely nothing wrong with my irons! Only issue is that they are a bit rough in the teeth, and some of the teeth are a bit fatter than others, and some have rather large burrs on them keeping them from making a clean mark. I only want to clean them up a bit, but I have been unsure how to go about doing this without causing damage to the teeth. Was struggling with how to get in between the teeth cleanly without hitting the nearby teeth while working. Hadn't thought of jewelers files... and are your referring to using fingernail files? Sounds like something that would work well! Thanks for the tips. Sandpaper on thin wood sounds like it would work well too, especially when I get into finer grits. Thanks for that idea, RStevenson. I will PM Mr. Armitage on this topic, to see if he responds. I did make a post on his video reviews regarding irons, but he hasn't responded. Hopefully I haven't insulted him in some way! YinTx

No responses, so maybe a lost art? Surely someone is willing to share how this is supposed to be done! YinTx

More bits and pieces of the project coming together. I have ordered some stitching irons of different sizes, so I want to wait until they get here before I decide what size and color of thread to use. Also, almost immediately after taking this last photo, I managed to dump my bottle of neatsfoot oil all over it, and the suede soaked it right up. If anyone knows how to get neatsfoot out of suede, let me know! I ended up remaking the pink section, which would be the third time to do that so far. One step forward, two steps back has been a fitting description of this little project! http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=28948 YinTx

If someone can help by providing information or pointing me in the right direction I would be most appreciative. I have been searching the forum trying to figure out how to "polish" pricking irons. Some of the irons I have from Osborne and Joseph Dixon are a bit rough, and I would like to know an efficient way to get in between all of the teeth. The metal is pretty hard on some, I believe the Osborne irons are drop forged. I have tried wrapping sandpaper around a flat bit of leather, but I am concerned I will actually wear a different angle into the teeth, ie sand only one side. This is less of an issue on the European style irons than on the diamond shaped stitching chisels, which are designed to go completely through the leather. Many of these are really rough the entire length of the tooth, which makes them difficult to pull out of the leather once punched through. Thanks in advance for any advice! For other images: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=28911 YinTx

Still available, yes. YinTx

Mr. Armitage, First off, I must say thank you for all your sharing. Without it I can confidently say my hand stitching would still be atrocious. By studying your videos and the tutorials and information on this site, I can at least show my work without complete embarrassment. Regarding your Post #20, I believe JanC was referring to these irons in the attached photo that are sold on ebay. They are listed as European style, and can be had for $35-$75 for the entire set. There are also some listed as "French Angled" chisels that I have ordered as well to see how they work. These in the photo make a very fine mark, less than 2mm in length, and I have been able to stitch nicely with Fil Au Chinois and 0.6mm Tiger thread with them. I have some Osbornes, which as you note make a massive hole, and are pretty useless for a thread as small as Fil Au Chinois. Since I'm just a newbie having only been stitching since January, it would be interesting to see what a more seasoned master thinks of these tools from China. I believe they are missing from your review videos, but looks like I see a set on your log at the end of the last review of the Kyoshin Elle irons. Photo: Hermann Oak 7/8 oz leather, 0.6mm Tiger Thread Samsung Phone slip case, "European Style" stitching irons, 3mm (a little over 8 SPI). First photo after marking, gallery photos after stitching, edge, front and back. one pic here, the rest in my Gallery… http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=gallery&album=2661 YinTx