Thor

Even though it's metric it usually works out that we still use inches in one way or the other. Over here it's called "Zoll" instead of inches and people still wonder why shanks, plumbing etc goes by those measurements. 1/2" is about 13 mm. With burnishing etc you'll come down to 1/2" and so on. Nobody will be able to tell (without measuring it) whether a strap is 40 mm or 1.5". According to the cutting knives they are using for this individual machine I would agree with cjmt and have the spacers made locally if it has to be precisely in inches. Besides that, I would assume that any shop should be able to use the delivered spacers and re-size them for you, or you ask him if he would able to cut them for you to the metric conversion of the inch. Here's a chart that makes conversions easier

Just don't forget that for import the item's value plus the shipping charges will be added and the taxes will be calculated from this figure. If it's more than 150 EUR additional customs taxes may apply.

Life's too short to wear ugly leather... I love it!

Welcome to the forum. Very few things are leaving me speechless. Your engraving did. Looking at your work I was wondering if you wouldn't want to have a look at pyrography. What some people do there in combination with tooling is just unbelievable. A professional set will run you about $600. As far as I know Hide Crafter has gone out of production, but you can find them here http://proleathercarvers.com/tools/pro-crafters-series.html or here which is even cheaper https://www.stecksstore.com/brands/Hidecrafter.html. I'm having a few of them. They are good stamps, but still a step or two down from Barry King's.

I don't know enough about building western saddles just yet, but since one of my many hats is that of a riding instructor I know a bit about posture and riding in various disciplines. This is the whole explanation that's needed. Now matter of style, be it Western or English, the equitation part and rider's posture is a critical aspect for judging. But not only that, the key to proper rider balance is to have the legs placed where they belong, which is right below the body and not in front of the body. The far forward stirrups have come with reining as far as I know. Be it in English riding: or in Western riding: More comfortable having the stirrups up front and sitting in it like in a chair? Will look like this: The goal of dressage is to show a well balanced horse and a well balanced rider. Instead of reading a whole book, or books even you can read this http://jjmaxwell.com/ (click on "Proper positioning & balance") Now additionally to this - the older we get the harder it is to place the legs properly below the body without having to force them back all the time. I noticed this during riding lessons with kids and adults. While children up to around 16 usually pick it up quite fast it is noticeable that the older the student gets the harder it is for them to place their legs below their body. Another thing is that the older one gets the more they tend to lean forward and believe they're sitting upright and once they're corrected to the upright position they feel like leaning back. I could further this to head position etc., but that would really be too much. BTW. basic dressage is part of all official "ride to learn" programs in western riding.

I'm very interested of the outcome. Could you post pictures of this please?

Very nice as usual Monica

Ok then... if it's just spinning, there are two possible causes, one would be - and that's the most common one - that the thread is just spinning through in the bottom of that hole. Take a tool, able of going under the screw (just hoping you're meaning a wood screw and not an actual bolt) head and lifting it while you turn it. The second one isn't as simple. Something like this would sit in the tree and the bolt was glued in place. About the dumbest thing one can do, but have seen it already. Technically same procedure, but you would have to cut the bolt once you got it all removed and you will have to glue dowel into the hole and seal it with fiberglass.

What kind of tree is this, wood or ralide?

Looking great, now you just have to make her a matching arm guard.

Very sorry to hear that. All the best for his recovery.

Quite sure you'll find what you're looking for here https://www.pinterest.com/riding1493/leather-tooling-patterns/ here https://www.pinterest.com/riding1493/leather-tooling-frames-ornaments/ here https://www.pinterest.com/riding1493/leather-tooling-native-american-and-tribals/ or here https://www.pinterest.com/riding1493/leather-tooling-norse-celtic/ Not a bad idea having a pinterest account

According to this http://www.naehmaschine-antik.de/zub-manual.html it was manufactured by Dürrkopp around 1910. Another Elastic by the same name was obviously made by Adler and by the looks of it there's even one by Adam Opel (German car manufacturer) http://www.naemaschmiede.de/index.php?p=14&masch=35 which dates back even further than the Dürrkopp model. So honestly I have no idea and if I hadn't come across the picture on eBay I wouldn't have known it at all.

Looks a lot like this one http://www.ebay.de/itm/antike-Schusternhmaschine-Sattlernhmaschine-Nhmaschine-/252348549923 and this is a Patent Elastic

Much better! Thanks a million.

Any chance to place the "Who Was Online" block at the end of the sidebar. It's really not of any interest, or at least not as interesting as the following blocks.

Just to give an alternative... Contact Ross either via this forum, his facebook page https://www.facebook.com/EinhornLLC or his website http://www.einhorncustom.com/#!leather-working-tools/cbpha. I'm more than happy with his work and my knife fits my hand just perfect.

I'm not making dog collars, but if I would, I would use harness or bridle leather. I think the same as Roq, the pretty blingy thingies is for the show and for those dogs that carried around in the ladies' handbags. Had to chuckle on that Tandy note. Is it part of the problem? No, yes, maybe. I have not idea which leather you used of them and whether it was of good or not so good quality. If leather cracks it can have several reasons but usually is due to missing oil/grease which keeps it supple. If you'd see how I abuse my saddles at times, scrub and rub the soap onto the leather you'd be amazed that they don't look bad, but that's something one can expect of good quality leather. Never heard that one should only use a damp cloth. Heck, I've even cleaned some saddles using a pressure washer. Dry and recondition them afterwards and everything's fine.

More than welcome. I know what you're going through. Happened to us as well when we moved from Germany to Canada and years later back to Germany. Took me years to figure all of that out and general electricians weren't of any help at all. Fortunately my uncle is an electrical engineer and was able to tell me what I needed. I'm not an electrician at all, but will try to explain what this setup looks like to me. While AC is the most reliable way/source of current some setups require DC. This being the reason why a AC/DC converter is usually installed within the machine if needed. However, if any part of your setup requires DC there will have to be a converter of some kind or you are running at risk damaging your system. Here's a very basic and simple yet understandable explanation http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-AC-to-DC

Walter, nach dem letzten Update ist noch nicht alles wiederhergestellt. Die Administratorin (Johanna) arbeitet daran. Kann sich nur um eine gewisse Zeit handeln, bis alles wieder da ist. Just informing Walter about the recent update and that Johanna is working to recover everything. This is the company Walter was referring to http://mko-handel.de/

Sorry for chiming in and sounding like a smart ass now but I had that issue for quite some time as well. Grommit your issue isn't the voltage it's the frequency. Your converter must convert both and you will need pretty strong unit like this https://www.conrad.de/de/voltcraft-at-400-nv-vorschalt-transformator-spannungswandler-115125230240-vac-230240115125-vac-400-w-511360.html Whatever is chip-controlled needs a frequency converter as it relies on the frequency for any calculation, be it speed or time... On that page I linked is an English manual at the bottom of that page.

Mike, I'm curious what make those stamps are. Really like them.

Guess pictures of some kind would be helpful to know what we're looking at. How would someone know if a pattern must be re-sized when one doesn't even know what it looks like? Or the source where you got the patterns from might already be sufficient.

Matches your cuff nicely, or is it the other way round? Anyways, a very nice job Mike.