jrmysell

It's 4 months late, but here's what I ended up doing. I just did a full welt on the entire sheath. Here's the knife, 1095 with Honey Mesquite scales. Does anybody know how to do pictures? Can't seem to figure it out.

Yeah, I'll definitely post pics when I'm done. Have 3 finals left this week (2 last week, 4 this week), then going home Saturday and will start the knife on Monday, so it'll still be a couple weeks.

That looks good!

This is a great question. I am going to be making my first pancake sheath next month when I get back to the states. From what I have read and been told, all knife sheaths where the blade is exposed should have a welt, but I have also watched the video you mentioned and noticed he doesn't do a welt. I plan on using a welt and doing like you and tapering it to the edge. Hopefully some experts shed some light on this.

Thanks for the tip, I could stitch twice, and just use a cheaper thread I have to use it up. I plan on antiquing after forming, it was more the basket weave impressions fading, I guess that's the best word for it, from soaking the leather to mold it. But that thread is more what I was looking for than I found, as I was just searching for pancake sheath tooling. Didn't even thing to look for holster threads.

Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for. I have some natural Barbour's Linen Thread that I'll use, but I plan on dying it for most of the first few sheaths I do, so that shouldn't be a problem, but I could also wait and stitch at the end too. I will use "sticky wax" and wax the thread myself. I was mainly worried about getting it wet enough to form it, but not lose the stamping. Once again, thanks.

Rocky Mountain Leather Supply has Tiger thread in the different sizes and colors here in the U.S.

I am making a knife as a gift for someone and am going to be making a pancake style sheath. I want to do a basket weave design on the front, and dye it and use antique for the tooling. I plan on tooling, then doing the dyeing, then putting the sheath together. When forming the sheath to the handle, everywhere that I've looked says to soak the sheath to form it. My question is, will this effect the tooling or the dye? I've read that getting the leather too wet while tooling will cause them to lose definition. Am I overthinking this and everything should be fine or will I possibly run into trouble doing this? Just to clarify, after forming, I can then use resolene, antique, and resolene again to finish it? Thanks everybody.

Don't know about the bonded. But for anyone interested, Rocky Mountain Leather Supply has Tiger thread in most (may be all) colors, and different sizes, 0.6, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2mm. And they have the different sizes of John James Harness Needles. They are a U.S. source, which I know doesn't help you being in the UK, but for everybody else interested in the states.

Campbell Randall Machinery has some right twist in Barbour's linen thread in different cord sizes. I just ordered some from them.

Looks great!

Thanks everybody! I went ahead and ordered it. I plan on getting a Barry King basket weave too as I plan on using it pretty often. I have heard with the basket weave, it's much easier to do consistent work with a nicer tool.

I bet this is the reason.

Great work!

Good work!

Looks good!

I have been looking at different threads, and think I want to start out using linen thread, looking specifically at Barbour's right twist, but don't know how what size to get. This will be for hand sewing, and I'll make my own "sticky wax" (beeswax/rosin mix). I'll mostly be doing knife sheaths and holsters, but also want to do belts, leashes, eventually bags, etc... The main thing I do though is knife sheaths, so that's where I want to start. Can anybody help? Have a picture with the different sized stitched as a sample? Thanks!

Looks good

Look good!

Looks very good!

Looks good. Yeah, with a compound, you don't need an arm guard. If you do, you are doing something wrong/the bow is the wrong draw.

I plan on gluing it up before doing the edges, and I will punch the stitch holes before dyeing and all that. Just put the actual stitches in at the end. I have read that lighter color thread can turn yellow with some of the products. When using darker thread, I'm sure it's not as big of a deal to not do that last. I'm probably going to be mostly making pancake sheaths that have the belt loops punched directly into the leather, so it'll all just end up one big piece.

So I just want to confirm that everything is in the right order/not missing any steps or whatnot. What I have now, mostly from bits and pieces from threads from all over going back 5-10 years is this (using all Fiebing's products): Case Tool Neetsfoot Oil Let dry 8-12 hrs Dye (cut 50/50 with dye reducer) Let dry 8-12 hrs Buff with clean rag Glue together (mostly making knife sheaths) Edge work (sand, edger, wet, glycerin bar soap, hand burnish, saddle soap, machine burnish, dye edges) Resolene (cut 50/50 with DI water) Let dry 8-12 hrs Antique (cut 50/50 with tan kote) wipe off high spots immediately Let dry 8-12 hrs Resolene (cut 50/50 with DI water) Let dry 8-12 hrs Finish steps (carnauba creme on face, paraffin wax on edges) Stitch together Does this sound correct, or anything I'm missing?