King's X

You can do it several ways, but here are my two solutions for you. Solution #1: is to add a piece of leather doubled up with a stiffener glued to the center. It would be sewn to the edges of your seams. Solution #2: is much like one except you place the divider to one side of the bag and is sewn to the seams. This would dedicate the divider to one side of the bag and not in the center. Google bag dividers for other options. Good luck

Maybe this can help you.

They are awesome and you are too! Thanks.

not sure if you were looking for a clip or magnetic. Here is one in their eBay store. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-CARD-WALLET-TEMPLATE-SET-PRECISION-LASER-CUT-FOR-LEATHER-CRAFTERS-SMTS-/141432817867

Looks like your wood may have warped or moved. Without seeing it in person I am not sure how to tell you to proceed. The hinges may have given in and caused the movement, but again I cannot tell by the pictures. If you want to keep it original.......don't touch it and keep in the corner. If you want ot make it useful, I would start with the hinges by replacement them. See how the jaws line up after you remove the hinges. Start here and move forward. Maybe you can plane the bottom thickness without touching the actual jaw closure. As for the jaw, you can just glue some 4-5 oz veg tan leather to protect your projects while in use. Good luck!

Not free, but check out Black River Laser.com

Okay.

I would say it depends on your personal preference. If you hand stitch the traditional way, that will be a big influence on your choice. If you do not stitch using traditional means, then I would consider your palm size.

Sorry.....you were talking about your awl. I use a point awl/scratcher from C.S. Osborne. I was just commenting that I wouldn't suggest that you make another one. The one you have in yours hands can work with your current "awl" tool. My apologizes!

I've own one of these made by a US company for over 2 years. The holes are the same. I do not think you need another tool. You just want to mark the holes to give you a reference. Nice picture!

Hello Chris and welcome to the forum! Thanks for sharing your projects with us. Good luck

Pretty simple. I do not take any credit for the attachment, but I use it. Good luck

Typically, Resolene will repeal water to a certain point. If the finish was applied to the top of the leather. You should be able to apply water to the underside with a note of caution. You may end up with water stains on the top end. Wet slowly and do not submerge!

There are several videos on YouTube that will help you sharpen your awl.

Buenas Bruno! Welcome to the forum.

Hello Roy and welcome to the forum!

Yes, very nice work! Welcome to the forum!

Get a hold of KnottyLinda, Springfield Leather, etc.

Beautiful work! Welcome to the forum.

Hello Vana and welcome to the forum. You have definitely caught the leather bug.

Looks like a modified Maltese cross?

When you fold your exterior panel, the interior should fold without any binding. I want to say it about 1/2" to 9/16" space total. Check out Joyce at Black River Laser.com. I believe she may have some templates up for sale. When I get up to the shop, I can check, but I am sure that someone will chime in before that. Good luck

I think Barry King has the best blade for the price. About $15 USD. Cannot beat the quality and price.

I believe you might need to sharpen your blade before you strop for use. The depth of your cuts look better than my first cuts. I would suggest some practice before you start putting pen to paper. This will help you control the shaking (nerves) and cut depth and length. Try to remember that your cuts should start out deep and fade to barely cutting ......It will will give it more of a transition look. I have attached an easy pattern for practice from a previous Leather Crafters & Saddler's Journal.

They look promising. I hope they work out well for you.