King's X

That's Kewl

Top and bottom is 3/8" allowance sides is 5/8" left and right of the grooves is 1/4", but I would advise you to go up to 1"-2" for a hardback book. The 1/4" might be okay for the vinyl binder that they show, but I almost did not get the book into my first cover. I also damped the inside pockets and let the moisture set in before putting in the book (with protection). It caused it to create a channel for the cover. I have a picture of one of my latest covers around this computer somewhere. Let me look around and I will post it up. I know that I have it on my blog site...address below. Good luck

Good luck

Send me your email address on a PM (personal message). I have one for you when I get home tonight.

I do one of two things! I groove a line where I want the stitches to go along. I start at the one end usually off the center and roll it carefully along the groove making sure to stay in the groove and make good impression that I can see later. Here is where a nice, good and sharp wheel comes in. My second way is to scribe a line with an awl (lightly) and repeat the instructions above. This way requires patience and steadiness because it is easy to sway off course. I hope this helps.

Thanks.

Good Luck!

Welcome to the forum. We would like to see some pictures if you get a chance. Good luck.

Yea, that was the article....unfortunately all publications and sometimes opinions are bias, but we have to experience it. Carl Suvaco uses it and is one of their spokesman.....this saddles look really nice.....for what it is worth. Just try it. But don't do like I did.....go to the same supplier and get burned twice! Good luck.

You're right...........interesting.

For belts if I am going to line them, which I almost always do, I like the final size to come out around 7-8 ounce. I normally will use a 2-4 ounce lining for my belts. The way I look at it is that I want it to hold up,but I don't want it stiff where it restrict movements. I have a 10 oz belt that I made several years ago (my first or third, cannot remember) and it is stiff as get out, but it is holding up very well. But then again, so have the other 9-10 belts (final size of 8 oz) that I have made too! This is MY preference for belts. Other may tell you difference, it is you that will have to decide. Also, ask your supplier (whomever you choose) about Culattas. I hear that belt makers like this type of cut for belts since you want them from a certain part of the hide. I hope this helps.

The burnishing is coming from the water content in your leather. The strike of the tool is causing the compressions of the leather fibers to bunch up and create the color. I am not good at science and I have heard several reasons for this, but I believe my last reasoning for this is that the leather has settle deep inside the leather and has somewhat evaporated from the top, which is why to you get the color down in the pits and not on top after striking the tool. As for the marks? I believe you are striking your tools (spacing) too far apart instead of striking them short distances in succession? OR You are leaning the tool the rear case the edge of the tool to leave a mark as you strike it? OR a couple of other things? It just depends. I mentioned in another thread about Paul Burnett's Pictorial Definition book. It explains in detail the differences in beveling and the impressions that they make or leave. I also think that Stohlman Leatherwork Manual (found at Tandy to this day) explains this as well. As for the burnishing and beveling.......put a project together with 3-4 pieces of leather. Wet them all and let them sit to case (overnight or same day) whatever or however you normally do this. At 15, 30, 45 and 60 minutes.............tool on these pieces of leather with the seven basic tools. Record your burnishing color and this should give you a "general" idea on that leather at that weight. Now, my disclaimer is that not all leathers are the same and even on the same hide, but that is what make this art unique. When I get a new hide in, this is what I do so I can get a general idea of how this leather will react to water.........which is how I once found out that I had chrome/oiled tanned leather and not tooling veg tan leather. Lesson learned! As for the beveling, you can do this on the same pieces mentioned above. Cut some lines and curves with your swivel knife and bevel on it. Try different ways of beveling leaning the tools spacing them close and far apart and any other way you can think of to learn how your tools will react. You have to get a good feel for your tools in order for you to manipulate them how you want them to operate. Think of a jack hammer motion, movement and operation when beveling. The operator holds the tool and pushes the button allowing the tool to do the work. He guides it, not so much moves it where he wants it to go. So strike your beveler and allow the recoil to move the beveler to the next position while maintaining control of the tool. If it flies out of your hand, guess what? So, good luck and happy carving!

I suffered the same thing when I started tooling until I learned not to choke the living you know what out of my tools. I tried the pencil cushions and surgical tubing, but it continued. It wasn't until I had someone with quite a bit of experience take a look at my tooling and noticed this. When they reset me up and told me to hold firm, but not choking tight is when I became concisousness of my faults. Over time through Paul Burnett's instructional tools and articles did I learn how to control this tool holding issue. Now, my shoulder hurt after tooling for a long time, but that is a separate non related issue. If you get a chance, read Burnett's Pictorial Definition book (several times) and he goes step by step. I don't know, it might help you realize what is going on or wrong? Good luck.

Welcome to the forum Rik! That is nice work. Thanks for sharing.

I know that I am going off sideways on this thread and please forgive me, but I believe the last Shop Talk had some good information about the quality of the leather industry and I want to say that it mentioned several suppliers that have been mentioned on here. Read it if you get a chance....it might provide you some more decision influencing information. I bought some leather from a supplier recently (quite big operation) and I will never buy again and would tell others on the QT my reasons. Since it was my second time with this supplier, I doubt it was a fluke. Eitherway, I found the Shop Talk article very infromative and thought I would share that. Good luck.

This may or may not help, but I believe I got this off of this site. It is something that will provide you some general guidelines. As for Holsters, I think a 6-8 oz should be plenty once you line it (if your going to). I believe and some may correct me that do this for a living, but you want it to safe and secure. I know when I carried for a living and made my own detective rigs, security was my primary concern as an amatuer maker. Anyways, this helps you out. Good luck.

Nice work Bruce. I really like the last one.....call it an obsession with floral designs......I don't know! Appreciate the posting.

Here is what I found in one of my old "Craftman" magazines. I hope this will get you half way there. Don't forget to post a picture of you "horse." Good luck

Good morning. I struggled with the same thing until I saw George Hurst's video on book covers. Than I saw this instruction guide somewhere.....I believe that Al Shelton may have put it together through one of the old magazines I have in my collections. Anyways, I copied it and now have it up on my wall over my drawing desk. I scanned it for you in hopes that it will provide you with some "general" guidelines to help you in your new quest. Good luck! Don't forget to post picture of your completed. project.

Hey Jacko, welcome to the forum! I see that you have some nice stuff there. We have few Aussies on the forum and I am sure you will get comfortable pretty quick like. So sit back and enjoy! Thanks for sharing.

Welcome to the forum welder! Sit back and enjoy the reading....You can learn a lot on here. Good luck

That's purdy! I've got a pick guard waiting in the midst for my carving. Enjoy

Welcome to the forum! Sit back and enjoy the tons of reading material on here.

They look really cool....I am sure your little will wear them proudly! Question: You did forget the most important thing? Your maker's mark! You went through all of that trouble and didn't mark it for all to see! I would like a copy, but it might be easier to just post it on here instead of becoming busy sending emails? Just my opinion! Way to go~!