dikman

I tried it using a 2-ton arbor press but didn't have much success. After watching that video Dwight posted (thanks mate ) I think I see where I went wrong. I'll make an attachment for the press and try casing the leather first.

That was my first thought too. It wouldn't have any metal-flake in it either, just a straight classic green.

There's something about that nice slow mechanical rhythm..........so soothing..... You're doing well, Maria.

I'm amazed that you got it to turn over. Says a lot for the original design and build quality.

Ignore them, they're heathens and have no understanding of the finer things in life.

I too noticed that there is more than one way to thread these machines on youtube. I inadvertently threaded mine differently to the "usual(?)" way but it still worked. These machines appear to be fairly forgiving in operation, which is a pleasant surprise.

I'm not sure how you reached that conclusion?

Very nice job Doc. Especially cutting all those grooves!

My apologies for taking this off-topic - Button Lady, if you search google you'll find everything (and more) that you'll ever want to know about heat-treating steel. In short, re-heating hardened steel can remove the hardening, it can be re-hardened BUT the process will depend on the type of steel used. Back on topic, Woehlk, I'm impressed! You don't mess around, straight into the painting! Glad you know what you're doing.

If a part has been heat treated, i.e. hardened and tempered, if you re-heat it you run the risk of removing the hardness and making it soft metal. If that happens the part will need to go through the hardening/tempering process again. The heat carbonizes/carburizes the oil onto the surface which won't wipe off. Wiping the part with a solvent (mineral spirits, petrol etc) will remove the excess oil and should leave a blackened finish.

Another possibility, as long as the parts haven't been heat treated, is to heat them and drop them in oil (light engine oil, canola oil, olive oil - it doesn't seem to matter which one), this gives a nice black finish with some rust protection. It's a method used by folk who restore old stuff.

I agree with Jimi, I wouldn't repaint it as it looks pretty good to me. Plus if you're going to paint it you need to strip it down completely!

In that case it's a very neat idea.

This might be helpful.

Neat idea, does the pulley stack have bearings in it?

It sounds like the same "laws" that apply to Black Powder shooting are in play here, there is an element of magic mixed in it.

The problem is the Scots make many excellent single malts. So many choices........

Some sort of old medieval torture device?

Nice find, it looks almost new! In general clutch motors run at 3600 rpm or 1700 rpm (round figures), based on my experience I wouldn't mess around, replace the clutch with a servo, you won't regret it.

At the risk of being repetitive read this - I'll repeat what Wiz and Dwight said, a 441 clone will best suit your needs and with the addition of the aforementioned plate and a table attachment you'll have one machine that will do what you want.

Hmm, doesn't look like any putty/glazing knife that I've ever seen, they generally have a little bit of flexibility in them. I'd go with it being a "general purpose" leatherwork knife. Definitely worth restoring.

I agree with kgg about electronics and sewing machines, the only electronics on mine are the servos. They tend to be pretty reliable but they are simple and relatively inexpensive to replace. And yes, that's not the type of machine you need.

I couldn't find much info on that machine but looking at the photos it appears to be a domestic machine. If it is the one I'm looking at then I doubt it will be any good for holsters.

I see you've been giving the 3D printer a real workout, kgg! (That table for the Chinese patcher looks very nice). Maint1517, which Pfaff are you looking at, given that you want to do holsters?

You did a great job getting that machine running again. Looks good.