dikman

You are indeed a lucky man.

What a thoughtful wife! Can I borrow her for a while?

Fred mentioned Mop & Glo floor polish, many use it in the US as it's cheaper than Resolene. It's not available here in Oz, of course, but by studying the MSDS I found a similar local product at a large hardware chain which does the same job.

Thanks everyone, it looks like carving first is the way to go. At this stage I don't intend to do any border stamping, although that may change, my thinking is that "simpler is better", with just a grooved edge around the carving. My first issue is to try and master the principles of Sheridan-style patterns. I have the template made up for the holster size now I have to design a pattern to fit (I didn't like my first attempt, it just didn't look right). Going to be a slow job!

Yes, I've read the same thing about gluing the liner while curving the holster. I know from experience how much effort it takes to fold a lined holster, on the other hand gluing the liner first makes it easier to get a good bond as once it's tooled I can't use a hammer or roller to apply pressure to the two parts. Hence my quandary.

I'm about to start on a couple of holsters, they'll be a modified Slim Jim style for my cap and ball revolvers. I intent to carve them (should be interesting ) and am still learning how to draw the pattern. They'll be lined, heavier leather on the outside and my question is- should I carve the outer piece before gluing on the liner, or glue the liner and then carve? I can think of reasons to do it either way, but is one way better than the other?

Look good, the elk antler in particular. I have a soft spot for antler handles/scales, I reckon they always look "right".

As to the question "Why would I bother?", two answers - 1. because I can and 2. to get a bigger flat area, ball pein/claw hammers have smaller heads, as you know.

I started off that way, using my 201K to punch the holes for hand stitching, it gave me nice even spacing.

I've been toying with the idea of finding a (cheap) hammer and re-forging it to a wide/flat cobbler's hammer. I'm not sure how successful it would be, but it's an idea.

Impressive little tool. I have no need for one, fortunately, as between the currency conversion and shipping it would be expensive importing one to Australia.

Looks like it's been "finished" with a fairly coarse grit belt. You can make it better (with a bit of work) by working through several grades of abrasive paper, finishing with a fine grit used wet and then polishing it. If you know someone with a belt grinder and buffer then even better, won't take long.

That's a good idea, I might give it a try as a way to "recycle" magazines before throwing them out.

HDPE = high density polyethylene. Same thing plastic milk bottles are made of. I made a couple of mauls from chopped up milk bottles, melted down. I suppose if I was keen enough I could make a cutting board using the same process, but it would be a lot of work!

Use of the leather to hang it with gives it a finished look () but being an Aussie I'm surprised you didn't use fencing wire.

Of course they do!

Impressive! Putting the thread spools below the table is an interesting idea. I'm waiting for you to make a complete sewing machine with your 3D printer.

That two-tone is very impressive. Well done. It's just a shame that some of the paint will wear off with use.

You're not wasting any time, I see!

This thread got me thinking, so when a local autoparts store coincidentally had a special members offer (35% off) on some of their tool chests I figured it was time to get rid of the large tackle boxes that I stored some of my tools in. It is a "house brand" but the quality is far better than I expected. My stamps and punches are still stored in a cupboard but I still have some room in the shelves so may re-organise things later. As it has a lockable lower section I decided to use it for storing powder and primers as the shed is also where I reload. That got rid of another toolbox off the floor! Oh, and the only reason it would fit is because after remaking the table for the Cowboy machine I got carried away and cut down the other two tables in the shed! I realised that for what I do I don't need full-width tables for the machines. The post-bed was a bugger because I had to completely dismantle everything and reduce the width of the metal frame but the Seiko was simpler, I just removed the machine so it didn't get any sawdust in it and then lopped off the table that overhung the frame.

You could mark the shaft and pulley with a permanent marker first, or a small scratch mark, if you're worried about aligning it. Once it's off if you clean the shaft and inside the pulley thoroughly it should go back on ok. Steel wool might help if solvent won't remove any built up gunk. The heat gun might be worth a try.

You will probably need a pulley/gear puller, very useful for tight pulleys. You should be able to get one on ebay or your local auto shop. Or you could try tapping (gently) around the inside rim with a rubber/nylon/leather mallet to try and loosen it. None of my machines have guards 'cos real sewers don't need them.

What he said, the first ones are for hand stitching.

There's something nice about a smooth even coat of grey primer, sometimes I think all it needs is a clearcoat over the top. It's looking good so far, that green looks better than I expected.

Great news, Tequila, you must be feeling very relieved.