dikman

Good question. The common way that most of the restorers on youtube do it is to either heat them and drop them in oil or use the gunblue stuff that is used for cold-blueing on firearms. I'm interested if there's another way.

Re-charges via a USB port. This particular model has a USB-C connection on the bottom so can charge faster if you have a 5v/2 amp USB source (which I've just made for it). A guy on another forum just told me he has one and the battery died so he runs it off the USB cord. Testing by a reviewer showed it outputs about 21 psi and has a button on the bottom that reduces the output slightly, if needed This, by the way, is not mentioned in what passes for instructions. There is also a LED display on the bottom to indicate how much charge is left.

I wasn't sure where to put this so stuck it here. I just received my cordless airbrush, 12 days from ordering to delivery from China, pretty impressive. I want to experiment with applying dyes onto leather, and while I have several airbrushes, compressor etc it means dragging all the gear from one shed to another and back again. This is completely self-contained and obviously very portable. Reviews have generally been very good for this particular style of cordless brush (there are quite a few different styles) so I figured it was worth a try. A charge is supposed to last between 45-60 minutes, more than enough.

That foot pedal will be one-of-a-kind! Way over-the-top!

Some nice work there. If it was me, though, I would have made the handwheel bigger as it will help give better control and torque. How do you intend controlling the servo?

Very nice work. Somewhat better than my first effort. I notice that, like me, you haven't quite mastered the pear shading. I thought mine was ok - until I took a photo! It's not as easy as I thought, it requires a light touch. How about a bit of info on dye used and finishing? We like to know these things.

Thanks Viking, kind of you to say so. It does impress people when they see it, but that's because they don't understand the subtleties of carving leather so don't look too close! I must admit it was a lot of work but I found it very satisfying to make.

Hi Glyndon, sorry mate it's long gone. I realised I was accumulating too many machines so decided to stop looking and rationalise things. I've kept the ones that I'll actually use - flatbed, postbed, edge binder and, of course, the harness stitcher (should cover anything I'm likely to do). Glad you got it working, they're a good solid machine, and I admire you for being able to use the clutch motor, that was something that had me beat.

Thanks for that link, I was curious about it too. Very nice, but shipping would probably be a killer to Australia. As for re-tapping that thread, I thought of that too but you might need to go the next size up?

Good video, Brian, the only thing different I would have done is mount the speed control unit just underneath the table, rather than on the edge where it might catch on something. I was wondering what the baseplate was made of, that would make for a pretty heavy table!

There ya go! Guess it's true, great minds think alike.

Looks pretty good to me. If you hadn't seen the other one first you wouldn't be disappointed. One of the "complications" with metric screws is they have several different thread pitches they use.

I built my own table , a heavily modified "standard" table, and placed the lifter pedal on the left, as you say it feels more natural. But it was a lot of work! You can't just swap pedal positions because you'll need to make up new linkages for the lifter. Looking at the base of your machine, moving the upright towards the front and shifting the pedal assembly towards the back might make it more comfortable but I'm not sure if it would affect the overall balance of the machine on the base. Moving the head assembly is possible but you'll probably have to extend the belt slot and drill a new hole for the lifter chain, and it probably still won't be close enough for you.

Somewhere underneath all that 3D printed stuff lurks a sewing machine! Good job, kgg.

It's good that you got it working, but there is a lesson here too. You omitted to mention, at the start, that you had a custom (lighter) pressure spring fitted and had bent the hook spring too. This made it "non-standard" but anyone offering advice wasn't aware of this, which doesn't help when trying to solve problems. If something goes wrong the first thing to do is put everything back to standard and eliminate any possibility that any changes made are causing the problem.

Now that's different! Very neat.

Just send him a PM, he's shipped a few across the pond to the US so it shouldn't be a problem. I fitted the plate to mine and the only time I'll take it off is if, for some reason, I'll need the holster or stirrup plate, other than that it will be the default plate. My little shed was originally built for my sewing machines but it didn't take long to move my reloading/casting gear in too. I doubt you will regret getting the bigger machine.

I got a bit sea-sick at times with the camera movement! Seriously though a very informative video, stitching those handles was interesting. I notice you don't need to hold the thread when starting the stitches? I'm waiting for someone to ask if it will sew holsters.

Congratulations! Now order the modified needle plate/feed dog from RockyAussie, it's a must have for these machines, you won't regret it.

tt, that is a brilliant idea! Wish I'd thought of it when moving my 4500 (I just managed to lift the head!!!). Flatcapper, scary stuff, glad the damage isn't worse and consider yourself fortunate you weren't badly injured.

I agree, if you can afford it then buy the bigger one, you may not need it now but you never know what's ahead. At least you'll have it just in case. As for the shed, I don't see why it shouldn't work, just keep the machines covered when not in use. Mine are in a much smaller shed and I keep them covered to keep the inevitable dust off. Handstitched, it's amazing how much one can cram into a shed, isn't it? Stuff will always expand to fill any empty space in a shed!

This issue has been raised before and there's at least one other thread on it. Generally servos appear to have some tolerance regarding the pulley/handwheel ratios, for example I changed the motor pulley to the smallest I could find and replaced the handwheel with a larger pulley and the needle positioner still worked, but as soon as I added a speed reducer it stopped working. Some have had success with using speed reducers and needle positioners but it all comes down to the brand of the servo.

The needle positioner on some (many?) servos won't work if a speed reducer is fitted due to the change in the ratio between the machine head and the servo pulley. I have three like that.

But...but....but....I thought everyone in Wyoming wore a cowboy hat, Chuck!!

That sheath must rate as a "classic"!