dikman

Yes, push the stitch length lever all the way up and it reverses the stitch.

Poor little Pfaff. It sort of looks like someone was stripping it for parts.

Great buy! Now comes the fun.

Way to go, Jeannie! Looks like it's sewing well. I look forward to seeing the end product.

Jeannie, have you downloaded the manual I linked? It explains how to adjust the feet. The wingnut should be on the other end of the bolt in the first picture, it tightens a curved slotted bar.

I don't know Jeannie, but if that piece you bought fits then I'd say yes, it will fit, as that looks like a Pfaff binder plate. Does it have a part number on it? Those other two machines are clones of a Pfaff 335 and Juki 246, so I'm wondering if yours is one they designed themselves? They are supposed to be a large sewing machine manufacturer.

It doesn't appear to be a clone of either a Pfaff or the Juki DCS246, and so far I haven't found anything else that looks like it. Manual/parts list is here - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1182718/Zoje-Zj2628.html#manual I thought the base looked a bit different, like it has a second base attached to it, and the manual shows it's an accessory base that is actually an oil reservoir as the machine is fitted with an oil pump.

Have a look at the Kwok Hing website, they're in Hong Kong so I don't know if that makes any difference to shipping. http://www.kwokhing.com/pfaff/ Not the cheapest around but excellent quality. They have the two feet that you need. Can you post a photo of the entire machine? That might help identify which clone it is.

Snakeoil, welcome to the Wonderful World of Singer Screws! It took me a while to figure out that Singer screw threads are unique.

I think we need some photos of the machine, all of this is based on a very short video of the feet?

Jimi's right about the inner foot, I should have checked before opening my big mouth, so to speak! I suspect that if you can find binder parts for a Pfaff 335 there's a good chance they might fit, although I have no idea where to get them.

Looks like clone of a Pfaff 335? If you search on that model you should find some pictures as many of them were sold as binding machines. The feet look right but the inner foot isn't lifting, so some adjustment is needed, and as jimi said it's missing the row of guide fingers that mount at the right hand end of the moving plate. Looks to me like someone removed the binding parts so they could sew normally.

Dwight, no argument from me on your reasoning, because I agree with it (which is why I had the idea of a forward cant). Unfortunately, if the powers-that-be running Single Action here in Oz determine that it breaks the rules by pointing the barrel backwards I'm not about to create any dramas for myself over what is a minor issue. Professor, as many here doubtless know Andy Anderson was an early holster maker for tv and movies. He studied the actual action of drawing and firing and developed the rearward canted holster as providing a more natural means of fast drawing a revolver. If you think about it, that works well if you draw and fire from the hip, if however you draw and raise the revolver to a straight arm forward thrusting position it's not as efficient as you are actually pulling the gun back and then have to reverse direction to raise it up. With a forward cant you're drawing it forward and up, which is more natural for a raised arm style. Anyhow, it's been an interesting discussion.

Yeah, it can be confusing. 30 degrees is the maximum cant/angle for a holster, but if it's a cross-draw when drawing you have to twist your body to ensure that the barrel doesn't point back behind the shooting line. " seems the barrel could be straight down as it "leaves leather" even with a forward cant but the cant wouldn't help much " That's the issue, any hint of a rearward facing barrel when drawing could be a problem. Just not worth the potential hassle, imo.

If your business is doing well then the last thing you want is messing around changing a machine to sew thin stuff, only to have to change it back to sew something thicker (as Wiz has implied). From everything I've read while the Sailright is competent enough within it's limitations you will be better off with a "proper" industrial machine. There have been posts where members have made wooden box bases for an industrial machine (the sort you're looking at, typical upholstery class machines) and mounted a servo on top and directly behind the machine. This makes it an all in one unit, except for a cable-operated foot control.

" When drawing a revolver, the muzzle may be oriented into the straight down (180°) as it clears leather; " That is what he's referring to, with a forward cant holster the barrel will be pointing back when holstered, so when drawing it will break that 180 rule.

I was discussing this idea at the last SASA shoot I went to and it was pointed out why it wasn't a good idea. It would point the barrel just slightly rearward, which would break the rules regarding where the barrel was pointing, and dragging it out could angle it back even more. Result would likely be a disqualification! Just as well I haven't started on them, looks like they'll have a slight rearward cant then, no big deal.

You're right, it didn't work on mine. With a speed reducer the NPS wouldn't work at all, just locked up the machine, so I added the extra magnet and this time it ran but I couldn't choose whether it stopped needle up or down, sometimes up, sometimes down. I think the problem is that there is no option within the parameters to change this when using two magnets. Doesn't really matter as I don't need the NPS, I was just curious whether I could get it to work.

Like mike, I too enjoy reading posts like this. I'm impressed, that's some nice delicate machining, particularly cutting the threads!

I agree, they are a loss to the community as a whole.

Yes, please post if you figure something out as it might be of help to others. As most servos use a similar operating lever, which has a relatively short travel, it shouldn't be too difficult to adapt it to hand lever operation.

As mike pointed out the EPS/NPS is really suited to the garment industry where they are generally sewing at high speed. I think it's safe to say that most of us leather sewers prefer slow speed to give better control over stitch placement - on a garment one stitch too many won't matter but on a leather item it can ruin all the good work you've put in! I bought a servo with one because it seemed like a good idea, but when I tried it out I found it was quite easy to end up with an extra stitch, so stopped using it. I use speed reducers (or fit a large pulley in place of the handwheel which achieves the same result) and in my opinion they are far more useful for sewing leather and like mike I consider them a "must have". They also increase torque and make it easier for the needle to punch through thick/stiff/hard leather. Be aware that not all EPS/NPS will work with a speed reducer (mine won't). If you want both you're better off getting them at the time of purchase to make sure that they work together.

Ah, that explains why their links don't work.

Well done, Uwe! You have done all the hard work to show anyone wanting to make an extension just how to do it, and shown how to do it at minimal cost.

This solution was offered by one company, unfortunately the video doesn't work nor can I reach the website? Basically like Pinto said, a bicycle brake lever and cable adapted to fit the control linkage on the servo motor.