gary

I though I would add to the pool of knowledge so, for what it's worth... Tannic acid was used from antiquity to the late 1940s for the treatment of burns. It was used to speed up the healing process - it seemed to help scar formation. Presumably, it was thought that if it could 'fix' leather it could 'fix' skin. Research in the 1940s by plastic surgeons including Sir Archibald MacIndoe found it to be carcinogenic as well as nephrotoxic (damaging to the kidneys) as absorbed tannic acid is excreted from the circulation via the kidneys. Sorry I can't quote the original research but my files got weeded and they've gone. I worked on a burns unit for years and once, when clearing out an old storage cupboard, found a tube of tannic acid and was interested enough to do a bit of research. The tube it was in, by the way, was made of lead. A bit of a double whammy. Tea contains tannic acid (albeit very weak) but is neutralised by the addition of milk. I should know better but I don't wear a dust mask when sanding leather. And I drink tea. An allergy may be to the leather itself (usually the proteins it contains) or the chemicals used to tan it - I don't know if there are fewer allergies with tawed or chrome leather than veg tan. Gary

I made one recenly to a pattern supplied by the customer. It was lighter weight than his existing one and he wanted the front skirt to split in the middle with an overlap. The two lower skirt panels needed to be stitched to the top bib part and I used thin brass wire. I did look at his current apron and it had been stapled together. he also wanted it adjustable and I thought the simpler the better (such as two straps that you tie at the back) but he wanted two D rings as you suggest. He was happy with it. The sewing was a bit of a swine but I found you could do it in short segments as it helped to keep the thread length short and manageable. Hope that helps. Gary

Most sides have about 20 to 23 inches of useable width. depending on the quality of the leather, not all of it is always suitable for reins. Gary

I sew using a pricking iron to mark the holes - these help keep the right angle. I've also flattened a part of the awl handle where my thumb rests so I get it in the right and same position each time. A sharp awl backs out easier than a blunt one. If you find you need to put finger or thumb pressure on the leather with the hand holding the awl, make sure you don't dent the leather with your finger nails. Hope that helps. Gary

Gary, I've made a few shotgun cartridge belts - for the waist but with an over-the-shoulder option. The one I'm making at the moment is 2.1/2" wide. The loops are 1.1/2" wide. The part of the belt (less billet and chape) which carries the cartridges is 44" long and it will carry 40, 12 bore cartridges. The chape and billets will be 1.1/2" wide. I also provide an extension strap, usually 18 - 24" long and 1.1/2" wide, that can be added to extend the belt for over the shoulder use. Hope that helps. Gary

I think they're a good idea. I've made a few from offcuts and they do have more staying-power than a standard card, business card. A split ring or a short piece of ball chain also increase their longevity and usefulness. Some that I have given away are still around years later as key rings or just hanging up from a hook in a hallway. Peope think twice before they throw them away while paper cards are treated with less respect. Gary

It might be worth looking at these previous posts. At least it should remove the misconception about 'left' and right-handed' pricking irons. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42375&hl=portmanteau#entry263740 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42220&hl=portmanteau#entry262675 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42008&hl=portmanteau#entry261475 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25370&hl=portmanteau#entry160249

I know it's not Vergez Blanchard but thier tools are usually good quality and it's in English. And their prices are fairly comparable according to my maths. http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products/Half_inch_Pricking_Irons_2_Teeth.html http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products/One_and_Half_Inch_Pricking_Irons.html http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products/Pricking_Wheels_Large.html Gary

One Randy Steffan's books, 'The Horse Soldier' (I think they are called) series, should cover most of what you want. This is a link to Amazon UK but it gives the details. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Horse-Soldier-1776-1943-Spanish-American-Accoutrements/dp/0806114517/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1353575583&sr=8-9

I've been using Abbey for years now and they never objected to me not being 'trade'. In fact, I went to them first and then stayed with them (mostly) as they didn't mind me putting in small orders and have always been really helpful on the 'phone. They do veg tan and I have seen them list tooling leather as well. It's usually shoulder but they sometimes have butt as well. They are worth calling. Gary

I'll try and be logical about this ... so bear with me. I'll be pedantic but that's for my benefit and I'm not trying to patronise. With the leather in front of you, in the clams, stitches marked and single needle primed. Hole number one is furthest away from you and you're stitching towards yourself. Stab hole 1, pass needle through from left to right. Stab hole 3, pass needle through from right to left. Stab hole 2, pass needle through from left to right. Hole 4, right to left. Hole 3, left to right making sure the thread enters and exits through the top of the hole. Hole 5, right to left. Hole 4, left to right making sure the thread enters and exits through the top of the hole. Hole 6, right to left. Hole 5, left to right, top of the hole. Hole 7, right to left. Hole 6, left to right, top of hole. Etc, etc, etc. I had a quick bash at this last night to make sure I wasn't talking complete rubbish. I used an 8spi pricking iron and my usual sewing awl and 0.8mm thread. It came out looking not bad. It did take a wee bit of fiddling to make sure the thread came out where it needed to and to make sure I didn't sew through the previous thread but it was fine. I tried it again this morning with some thicker thread and it looked better - a rounded 1.2mm thread. I'll get a couple of photos when I have a chance. Gary

Sorry, I should have RTFQ. In the original picture, down at the bottom right of the case, it does look like a diagonal hole but from I can't tell if it's from an awl or a chisel.. As I said, I use a normal stitching awl and that's probably why I have to fiddle around to get it looking right. having said that, it lies beetr the more I do so I suppose a lot of it is down to how you manipulate the thread as it goes through the holes. Sorry I can't be of more help - maybe someone else has an idea. Gary

You could try laminating pieces of leather together to get the stiffness/thickness you want or sandwich a piece of thicker material (metal or kydex or orthoplast or whatever) between two layers of leather. To help reduce the bulk you may want to use something like rein hook studs on the back of the disc of leather which engage in holes in the belt billet rather than a standard half or whole buckle with tongue(s). It may be worth checking out somewhere like Le Prevo leathers as they sometimes have large plate buckles for sale and they are happy to deal in small quantities. Hope that helps. Gary

I thought I was doing well at 8 spi doing 12" per hour. And I do it the 'traditional' way with stab - sew the stitch - stab - next stitch - etc. Wish I could double my speed to 24" an hour! I tried stabbing all the holes first but I ended up with a wavy stitch line and it looked really tatty so I went back to the way I was taught. Gary

It is backstitch but this is the side which is not normally seen. I believe it's called rope stitch in embroidery. Just one needle and thread. I do it occasionally and use a standard diamond sewing awl and one needle - it just needs a bit (sometimes a lot) of fiddling with to get it looking right. I use a pricking iron to mark the stitches so the awl cuts are diagonal. I have found it looks better using a round thread rather than a flat braided or flat corded thread. Hope that's of some use. Gary

Try backstitch rather than saddle stitch with thinner leathers. It can make a difference and you don't need as much tension.

I made an apron for a blacksmith recently and used a heavyweight chrome chap leather. His biggest 'hate' about the aprons he could buy off the shelf were that they were stapled together. I ended up 'sewing' with brass wire to hold the pieces together. He says it's working fine for him. Gary

Last time I saw anything like this was in a C-130 Hercules as a passenger restraint. Something like http://aerialmachineandtool.com/webshaper/store/viewProd.asp?pkProductItem=10

Sorry about the search thing - it was meant to be a search I did on on 'portmanteau' - but you got the idea. I'm in the UK so any help on sup[pliers would be of limited use. I believe Dixon's make them but are a special order. Some of the US members may be able to help on North American makers/suppliers. Gary

Have a look at http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=quick_search&search_filter_app[forums]=1 There are some makers of portmanteau pricking irons out there but you may have to get one custom-made. Gary

Have a look at http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31910&st=15&p=241077&hl=portmanteau&fromsearch=1entry241077 Gary

Generally, from what I've seen and made, in the UK belt sizes are by 2 inch increments using even sizes (32", 34", 36", etc). Adjustment of the belt is usually by 1" increments with the belt size being the centre of 5 (or sometimes 7) adjustment holes. So you're on the right lines as 1" = approx 2.5 cm or 25mm. We Brits really love the metric system. Gary

Check out Le Prevo - they do embossing plates out of an alloy, not steel, but it's suitable for leather. All the details are on their website. Abbey saddlery have a contact who will make and mount custom-made stamps. You'll have to speak to them about it - and ask the price before pulling the trigger. Gary

Just made a huntin' shootin' an' fishin' type waistcoat for a customer out of upholstery leather. Came out a treat and may even make myself one.

PM me and I'll see if I can help. Gary