gary

Who do you already use and for what items? The UK members here could help but they may just repeat ones you already know of. A bit of a steer would help us list useful ones. There are quite a few leather and associated goods suppliers over here but for some things like specific fasteners you have to think outside the box - for example, lift the dot fasteners from boat suppliers or car restorers, some buckles from parachute and aircraft seat manufacturers. Gary

It's not just you, there aren't that many out there in the UK. A standard one here is Valerie Michael's Leatherworking Handbook. There are a couple of others which I have in the workshop on general leatherwork - both of which show techniques which I feel are wrong and also try and cram too much into one book. There are quite a few others about on saddlery, tack and harness. Robert Steinke has published 3 or 4 that are worth looking at for some of his techniques but they are focused on horse gear. Allen's is a publisher but specialises in equestrian books and has a few leatherwork related editions out. Some are reprints of quite old volumes. The Stohlmans' books are good, particularly 'The Art of Sewing Leather' - look on EBay or Amazon or, if you must, go to TLF. The best books on tooling and carving I have seen are from the US - the British do not have as much of a history in those skills and they are really only just seem to be catching on over here. There are a couple of places that teach it in the UK but I have no idea of their pedigree or styles. An internet search for out of date books may be useful and searching on this site will uncover several helpful posts where generous members have listed books and sites where many are available. Hope that helps even if it's a bit negative. Gary Edit: And try some old bookshops, you can often find an old gem hidden away.

My first suggestion would have been Abbey - I bought some of those from them years ago, didn't realise they don't stock them any more. What width is it? I'll have a look in my misc. box and see if I have any left. Gary

Do you mean the Garrison style for a trouser belt, the 'S' snake style of the earlier carrying equipment or the 'H' frame buckle of the later (later than 1903 so probably not) webbing equipment carrying belt? A picture would help everyone. Gary

Try http://abbeyengland.com and search for dye. Among other things, Fiebing's oil dye comes up. or www.leprevo.co.uk/dyes.htm or Amazon or Ebay or theleathercarecompany.co.uk or try an internet search for others.

Angle the iron back a hell of a lot so only two teeth are touching the leather then go forwards one mark at a time. It works for me with No7, No8 and No 10 irons. Just be slow, careful and not overenthusiastic with the mallet.

LTC and CaseyB - PMs sent.

CareyB, From one of my own which is used on one of the courses I run. Gary

Try this. Losing Stitches.pdf

Roy, Thank you very much for your generosity.

Try this. You may have to adjust the sizes a bit as this is for a springer spaniel/collie size. Gary PPattern 08 _ Tracking Harness.doc

Sewing awl or stitching awl - it does what is says on the tin. Keeps the stitches from ripping into each other and cuts much easier than a relatively blunt scratch awl. It was probably developed over thousands of years for a reason. If you're going to stick with a scratch awl then you're probably stuck with large stitch spacing. For hole spacing using a ruler at, say 10spi, get a ruler graduated in 10ths of an inch, for hole spacing using a ruler at, say 8spi, get a ruler graduated in 8ths of an inch. You can see there's a trend developing here. For awkward spacing like 9 or 12spi, make your own measure. Another option is to get a cheap kids' set of school compasses, mark out the first inch at whatever spacing you want then use the compasses to continue. Or get an overstitch wheel. Gary

I use a lot of bridle leather and edge it with dye powder dissolved in water with a bit of gum tragacanth added and applied with a wool dauber. I burnish straps with canvas. I use a watered-down PVA adhesive (white wood glue) at about 50:50 as a final coat - the number of coats needed depends on the leather. I'm surprised the dye is coming off - I haven't had that happen (yet). Gary

OurJud, If you're passing Knutsford, go into Abbey there. They have always been helpful, don't mind dealing with small orders and may have scraps that they want to get rid of. Just go in and chat them up. They are knowledgeable and will point out what you may need and what they have. It would help if you bought something while you're there as they are a business and not a charity but even a small purchase such as needles would help get you in their good books. Gary

OurJud, Have a look at those pdf docs I sent you - particularly the ones on tools and hand stitching. They should answer a lot of your questions.

Try up to 8spi for 0.8mm Tiger thread; 6 or 7 is okay as well. I can stitch 1.2mm leather (chrome tanned as well as veg tan) at 8spi with 0.8mm - just don't pull the stitches too tight. It has been suggested elsewhere that a fork can be used for marking stitches if you haven't got a pricking iron, pricking wheel or overstitch wheel. I presume you have a diamond awl - slant the holes as you would with a pricking iron (/ / / / rather than - - - - or | | | |). Gary

The Encyclopaedia of Leather braiding has a gaucho buckle which is all leather. It can be 'stiffened-up' by backing it with a leather 'plate' if you see what I mean. It closes with leather buttons. Gary

7 and 8 spi = 0.8mm Ritza thread (that's about 18/3 linen thread). 10 and 12 spi 0.6mm thread. Dixon pricking irons/wheels.

If it is not possible to sew it the way you have envisaged it, fiddle about until you find a way the pieces will go together to get a result that is possible. Have a look at the scan below as I have tried to explain my intent. You will be able to stitch it this way though the pieces of elastic will not be laid in exactly the way you wanted them in the first place. Be willing to sacrifice a bit of time, leather, elastic and thread to find out what works and what doesn't - that's how most people here have gained their understanding of their craft. All the responses here have given you answers you need if not the answer you want. FS=Flesh side GS = Grain side

Sew it inside out, edge to edge, then turn it the right way out.

I use a lot of Sedgewicks and have to glue linings to some. Use a knife to scrape off the majority of the wax. Then use sandpaper to roughen up the surface. If that doesn't produce a nice key for the glue you can get a bit more drastic and scratch the surface with something like a scratch awl. Bostick is fine but use a J roller (or an old wallpaper roller) to get good adherence. I always stitch round the edges as that's where any glue failure will start. Gary

I have just been asked for one of these. Thanks for posting the pattern. Gary

My apologies, it's Ritza, not Tiger - see http://abbeyengland.com/Store/tabid/77/txtSearch/thread/catpageindex/ProductID/68932/language/en-GB/Default.aspx You can do 12spi with 0.8mm but it will look a bit clunky (IMO). You use the sharpened needle as an awl blade and fit it into an awl handle. That sort of answers Chris' question too. Hope that helps.

OurJud, I sometimes do 12 or 14 spi. I use 0.4mm Tiger thread and the awl I use is a sharpened (to approximately diamond-shaped) size 3 needle. For needles I use In-betweens. As you're in the UK, Abbey do the thread and the needles. you have to do the awl blade yourself. It's a pain that small and tight. Gary

Yep, inventive advertising. They're shoulders that are sold as 'suitable for belts' or 'a staple of the belt trade'. Often described as inexpensive and often as splits. Gary