gary

For some reason I can't paste the shortcut but there is a thread called something like 'Where can I find the equivalent tool in the UK' and it was last posted to in Aug 15.

I have an Osborne and it seems it has the same problem as your goodsjapan. I've tried the set square method and a few others and just have to position it just right. It's usually okay but a pain when you're in a rush. I don't know if you'll be able to get a Dixon tool as they have closed down.

25b Tried PM-ing you but couldn't. Do you want me to send you some of the 0.4mm Ritza so you could give it a try and see if it's any use? Gary

PM, with hopefully useful manual, sent. Gary

I think what Thor is trying to highlight is that you have used a photograph which may have a copyright and, if it has, you will need the permission of (and perhaps a payment to) the copyright holder to allow you use it on your website. Horween may hold the copyright or maybe the original photographer; you need to ask. Similarly, the diagram of saddle stitch which you use appears to have been taken from Kingsmere Crafts website (http://www.kingsmerecrafts.com/page36.html) and again you may need permission to use it. They may say no. If any of them say that it's okay you should keep a record of their agreement for your protection and it is good manners to at least acknowledge the source. Hope that helps.

Edit: I wrote the part below before I re-read your post and saw it is your first project. I do not wish to impugn your abilities or confidence, but how about something a wee bit smaller and less complex? As you're new to this you may not want to risk a large piece of leather (and the investment) on a project that, if it fails, could put you off the craft for the future. Just a thought. Work out which parts you are going to make out of leather and which out of fabric (such as the lining and so on) or which parts out of which weight of leather. Allow extra for the seams (and that depends how far in your stitch line will be which will depend on the weight of the leather and the look you desire). Will the strap be single or double thickness (I presume you aren't making it to the fabric pattern and folded over)? Basic arithmetic (width x length) will give you the square footage you need (or even count the squares in that handy design you refer to - remembering to add on for the seams). There are 144 sq ins in a sq ft. Then, as a SWAG, add 15% if you are happy with using most of the leather or add up to 35% if you are going to use only the best bits. And maybe a bit more for luck. Make a pattern out of paper so you can lay it out on the leather when you get it so you can see where to cut what.

http://edgebag.com/catalog.html

This any use to you? I presume your halter is our headcollar. PPattern 09 _ Headcollar.pdf

We have Bernese Mountain Dogs and I have spent ages trying to find the same thing, plus Bern canton emblems for their Seitel harness but have had have no luck. I have Swiss friend on the lookout for them as well but no luck so far. If I find anything I'll let you know. Gary

Handbag Designer 101 has been suggested as a good overall guide.

For a smasher, a solid doorknob (I use a brass one) sometimes fits the bill. It is worth trying David at the Cumbria School of Saddlery again as the flocking irons he does are excellent. Gary

I would use a shoulder for this as I think you'll find it the best thickness. As it's your first big project, you may want to use a pre-dyed leather so you won't have to worry about dyeing, conditioning and refinishing it on top of everything else you will be doing.

Try http://www.opas.co.uk/

Sorry, my bad. I misread your post.

http://www.saddlerytrainingscotland.com/?page_id=7

OPAS fasteners - not a bad selection of useful stuff. Very, very helpful when I phoned them up and went out of their way to help. www.opas.co.uk

TLF do a pattern pack. I made the attached pattern up from a tailor's textbook and it is workable in leather with a bit of fiddling. PPattern 17 _ Waistcoat.pdf

Thanks for the time and effort you take and your generosity.

I think you should divide by 144 or, if you haven't got an afternoon to spare, have an informed guess.

I don't use a machine but there have been previous posts on LW and I gather one reason for thinner in the bobbin is so the bobbin holds more thread and needs changing less often.

Nice looking bag. I've made a couple and you must have greater patience than me - I've sworn I'll never do another. I haven't anything to add on a leather conditioner and sorry it's a bit off topic but... I was led to believe that the original Gladstone bag was more like a modern suitcase. The original was, allegedly, made for PM William Gladstone by a London bag-maker called Beard as, firstly, Gladstone travelled a lot and secondly, Beard seemed to have an eye out for cheap publicity. Given that the bag was for travelling and would presumably have held a large amount of clothing, and the Victorian habit of having a form of dress for everything and anything, then a larger bag would seem more logical and the rather (relatively) small bag that is these days called a 'Gladstone' would be too small for anything but Gladstone's mankini. http//www.pinterest.com/pin/401735229231794573/ shows a contemporary advert for one style.

PM sent

Looks like the answer to his question is 'April 2014'.

'Dual', which I haven't seen for years but gets a blue-ish tinge when wet or 'Seel'. Use Seel straight from the can, apply with a cotton wool ball, don't use much and don't overwork it. A couple of thin coats being better than one thick one. I think it's a bit like Resolene so may have some drawbacks.

Wow. That's most of them. There's Marcus Gear, Sedgewicks, kangarooleather.co.uk, Neumann plus the ones you know of and a few more for leather. For tools you have it licked. there's also Bowstocks. www.kingsmerecrafts.com has a few pages devoted to suppliers. For US style tools and accessories it does seem we're poorly provided for. Gary