fredk

add to your shopping list a rotary blade knife of 45mm or 60mm diameter. You'll not be sorry. I use one on any leather thinner than 1.6mm, or 4 oz. It really reduces that pull-out

I've just remembered that some years ago - maybe 20 years ago now - I saw a pair of 12th century embroidered leather gloves. Usually embroidery uses fine silk thread but these gloves I suspect used wool thread, plus they had decorative overlays sewn on. The 'embroidery' was good looking but not as fine as one would expect to find on cloth. The gloves were fancy indeed and more surprising was that they were men's gloves

Not with a machine but by hand, my #3 son and his girl friend tried to do some embroidery on leather. Problem was that you tend to have a lot of holes close together and they act just like the perforations along the edge of a postage stamp and leather tears along those perforations

extra info. The UK Ikea site gives some details of what these are made from SKVALLRA consists of 75% of plastic made from sugar cane and 25% traditional plastic. KOLON is PET plastic and Polyurethane plastic PLUGGHAST is Polyethylene plastic, and EVA plastic

I'm thinking its elephant or rhino. If it is, unfortunately you'll not be able to get any and use it legally The only real way of finding out what animal its from is by doing a DNA test on it. Do you know anyone at a university? they often have people working on DNA and could test it as part of their learning

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All this got me checking so I checked my local Ikea outlet for stock. It will be Wednesday afore I can get to inspect them. Ikea's transparent floor protector, 120 cm x 100cm x 0.2cm, or about 5 ft x 4 ft x 2mm/ about 1/8 thick, for £19. Being 'transparent' its not 100% clear see-thru but enough so Their desk-pad is 38cm x 58cm by ? possibly about 2mm and is £3. Again, it is 'transparent' but not 100% clear see-thru

Cost of materials x 2 plus tool time plus hourly rate . The more skilled = greater hourly rate Tool time = a basic rate for tools you use, for eventual replacement

90% likely the 'expensive' ones on etsy are the cheap ones being sold at inflated prices by re-sellers

Most excellent, all round, everything

On any thickness less that about 1.4mm (3.5 oz ?) I use a rotary knife. It helps limit any slip-out from under my straight edge

As long as the plate is not made of aluminium or magnesium alloy, try a soaking in a strong caustic soda solution. CS dissolves aluminium quickly

That looks like a chrome tan to me and you cannot get the creases out of it. Best you can do is to stretch it tight and glue it to the panels, this will minimise the crease look but not eradicate it

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333930064942?epid=20045199299&hash=item4dbfc86c2e:g:p-gAAOSwbWZgWJLP For straight sections I use this, have been for a long time, a scrap of beech with a groove in it I also have a couple of carrot shaped slickers I've also used a piece of denim or a piece of linen in my fingers Before you set out to do it 'easier' learn what it is you are doing

The dark material might be neoprene sponge rubber. Both it and the cork can be as thin as 1mm

Go to a hobby shop which sells items for model railways and ask for cork track underlay. Its thin cork strip, usually with adhesive tape on the back. A big roll will cost you just a few Euro

I believe that is actually a panel beaters hammer. For beating metal panels into shapes. There are a great variety of head shapes in these types of hammers.

On a book shelf with lots of cousins and read occasionally. Thats what it was born for

UK, we use millimeters for thickness. 1 US ounce for leather = 0.4mm thickness. Therefore 3oz = 1.2mm, 4oz = 1.6mm and remember; when you apply dye to your raw leather and it dries, the leather shrinks. Not only in width x height, but also in thickness. Most often this shrinking in thickness goes unnoticed but it can affect the final out come of your project in some cases

Very nicey indeedy

you need to PM a moderator and ask. But they won't necessarily delete a thread if there is information being shared in it

a. dubbin is a heavy waxed based polish used for waterproofing leather items, especially hiking boots and bags. Its not meant to be polished, just applied and allowed to semi-harden b. pure turpentine is made from the resin of pine trees

That and the dull finish makes me think its a dubbin type polish which might be removed with turpentine

Like this That is like my main beek tool when I kept bees