fredk

A. do the granite slabs need to be that large? I often use a chunk of marble that is only about 6 inches by 4 inches. Cut the slabs in half to 6 x 6. That'll reduce the weight. b. get an angle grinder with a fine cutting disc on it and use that on the edges and sides. you'll soon have smooth edges c. use a wooden fruit boxes/crates for them d. mechanics tool chests for all the tools. you can probably get ones cheap in 'Harbor Frieght' [ name?] like the top part of this unit I have one set of drawers just for 3D/2D stamps, one for sewing things, one for general purpose leather working tools, and one for spare tools and odd things

A very similar knife is sold in the UK (EU as well maybe) as a Stencil Knife. For cutting through thin plastic sheet or card for making painting stencils

What about 1mm round leather lace.? I get it from an ebay seller. Its available in many colours https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Real-Round-Leather-Cord-1-mm-String-Lace-Thong-for-Jewellery-Necklace-Genuine-HQ/132939661899?var=432459571095 I made mini brass needles to use with it. The needles are made from 1.2mm brass tube.

May I suggest you line the jaws with thin leather. It will help grip and prevent the jaws marking the leather project

wot he says. sand paper = common name. Use 600 grade wet & dry paper. And if you want really polished, then go to 800 grade. then 1200 grade and then 2000 grade finishing off with a metal polish such as Brasso

thanks for the responses so far I've even considered attaching one side of velcro to the inside of the helmet, and the counter velcro to the back of the fleece, then it should be easy to fit and remove for cleaning or replacement.

I'm in discussions with a chap regarding a flying helmet, aka an aviator's helmet Like this type, a basic simple one I've no problem making the outer. Its basically the same as a medieval coif and I've made a number of those. My problem is this chap would like it lined with fleece. Either real or faux fleece. He would like it fully lined, or even just around the face and back to the ears and around the rear of the neck I'll be hand sewing as I've not got around to larning how to use any of the sewing machines I have How to fit the fleece? I was thinking of sewing it to a thin-ish lining leather or cloth and sewing that to the main panels along the panel joins as I sew it all together How do you sew fleece? Could I get away with just gluing it in place? If I get this right this chap says he'll want about a dozen made. Any ideas or suggestions folks?

Its curling because the leather is drying out and there is tension. You need to counter that tension, with a piece of leather glued on the back. A slightly thicker piece. Dampen it and let it dry out. I believe as the backing piece dries it will pull the corners and edges down

They'll need sharpened as well Now, punching the sewing holes - 1. block of bees wax 2. stab chisel teeth into wax 3. punch some holes 4. punch some more holes 5. back to 2 6. as 3 & 4 until you're all punched out

They look clear and sharp to me

It looks very nice so it does eh? please elucidate

Oil dye will still dry out the leather, you need to apply a small amount of pure neetsfoot oil, aka nfo, to soften the leather. Go easy with the nfo, not too much, its easy to apply too much and near impossible to remove it

a. in my experience those lines will be accentuated by dyeing b. they sort of look like vein lines c. Not normal to the leather I buy, never had that, only scars and insect bites d. it will make an interesting pattern on things made, its the sort of thing I actually want

That looks a bit like blunt stitching chisels points. Make sure they are razor sharp and also polish the sides.

PM Rolandranch, (name of Ryan) a member on here. I think his work is absolutely fantastic. As a young leatherworker working on a ranch his chaps are fit for purpose an example -

This is an old thread. The OP has possibly not been on here since May 2020 In the interests of information: try IKEA. Not too long ago (last December 2020) I saw they were selling hides with hair on as rugs or chair throws. The prices and sizes varied from modest to ' no-way hosay!!'. Hides included sheep, goat, possibly highland cow and other types

Try a couple of thinned coats of 'Mop and Glo' floor 'polish' which is a water thin acrylic varnish. Preferably sprayed on with an airbrush. I use it to seal the paint on my game boards

The epoxy will damage the leather. Maybe overlay it with a thin sheet of 3mm clear acrylic. Punch holes around the edge of the leather, drill matching holes in the acrylic and lace together

Dutch hooks https://dutchwaregear.com/product/ti-dutch-hooks/

Its not???? You too need to read quote from one of their listings - see the bit that says 'All items Made by us' ???? Fully functional, easy to store & good addition in your tools. Great for giving away as a gift.Each of our Damascus skiving Tool made by professionals according to the need for everyday use and they are unique in their own way. Buy with confidence. :::::All Items Made by us:::: Feel Free to contact us for all your Inquires, Questions and Feedback. We will be happy to help you to design tools according to your need and taste. Thank You I've not bought from them but I have been in contact with them Just forget it all. I shall no longer be posting any advice or help on this website. Its a bluddy waste of my time PS. the 'quality control sticker' is actually the sellers ebay listing identifier. If you bother to read or contact the seller you'd find this out and not jump to stupid unfounded assumptions

A. the maker is in England. As yet that is not a colony of China b. the makers mark is embedded in the handle c. TRY READING THE LISTING FOR ONCE- EEJIT!!

Check out this seller https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handmade-High-Carbon-Steel-Round-Head-Leather-Cutter-Skiving-Tool-Sheath-QC20/183974299306?hash=item2ad5b906aa:g:6oMAAOSwzRpe4n7c Mixed, but mainly positive, reviews on the quality and sharpness as received. But all knives should be sharpened after arrival

Very nice set up another difference in lingo: a door-kick panel on a door is a re-enforced panel so's ya can kick a door closed, an inset panel under a cupboard door so's ya don't keep kicking it with your toes is a plinth panel

1. if you reckon this is ruined as its now, try wiping it down thoroughly with lacquer thinners aka cellulose thinners 2 but be advised that the lacquer thinners will most likely take off a lot of the dye 3 this may or not work 4 after the thinners you'll need to re-dye and give it some nfo