fredk

Another idea. One I've been toying with. A 3D 'Doodle' pen. It uses a plastic filament which it melts and its meant for children to doodle-draw. I bought one of the pens and some filament for under £10. Use one of these to lay down a filament line on the lines of your drawing. You may have to go over the lines a couple of times to get some height to them. Once hard again the plastic filament will be hard enough to impress into cased leather

Try to find someone with a 3D printer. They might be able to do one for you

I just spotted this one on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/V-shaped-Leathercraft-Edge-Beveler-Skiving-Craft-Tool-Leather-Beveler-Tools-DIY/164310336173 Looks to be adjustable afaik its not a new design but I've not seen a new version of it for many-a-year I think I'll buy one as I'm always looking for a good groover

most excellent Thank you. Will access to it be by request like the funny leather stuff section? er, I mean the 'adult' leather section

I got my set thru ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-39-pcs-Style-Hole-Hollow-Cutter-Punch-Set-For-Handmade-Leather-Craft-DIY-Tool/363027217264?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3D32515d191e044be4b3ea2afdf2b83d33%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D133431273133%26itm%3D363027217264%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

If you have a lot to do invest in a 6 inch bench mounted skiver or one of these, if the straps are narrow https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leather-Paring-Machine-Edge-Skiving-Peeler-Manual-Leather-Splitter-Skiver-Blade/274310614756?hash=item3fde2fcee4:g:oaQAAOSwj~VcyAYC or one of these, which will do up to about 2.5 inches wide https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handheld-Manual-Leather-Skiving-Machine-Skiver-DIY-Leather-Splitter-Leather-Tool-/373107824448

Are the 'machine rivets' at Le Prevo the same type? http://www.leprevo.co.uk/rivets.htm email them and find out

This hat started out a mid-brown colour of chrome tan upholstery leather. I cleaned down the uncut pieces with cellulose thinners which removed the top coat lacquer and some of the brown dye. I then gave it a few coats of Fiebings acrylic black dye, then a couple of coats black Resolene. After it was sewn up it got one coat of the acrylic varnish Its a good deep black and theres been no bleed off of the dye

What is 'the best'? What is best for me might not suit you. I use the standard Fiebing's black dye. A couple of coats of that followed by black coloured Resolene and that followed by 1 or 2 coats of an acrylic varnish.

I thought I'd show you the use of the screw cups. These pieces are kept in with my rhinestones 1. Showing how the rivet-on rhinestone cone makes it sit high on a single layer of leather 2. on the left the rhinestone as above and on the right with a screw cup behind it 3. same pair from a more above angle On a single layer of leather the screw cup gives the rivet-on rhinestone a bit more attachment security On a double thickness leather the top layer could have a slightly larger hole for the rhinestone cone to sit down into, 'counter-sinking' it. There are also self adhesive rhinestones. I can buy them at a £-shop, (kinda like your $ store) at 100 or 300 or even 500 for £1. Depends on what stock they have in. They're usually in the 'Children's Art' section. I find they stick like a sticky thing thats very sticky on clean dry leather. I've only used them on a couple of hat bands so I don't know how they'd do on a dog collar or such. I messed up the first hat band ~ I put a couple of the rhinestones on badly, could I get them off? no-way hoseay, they was stuck good . . . . . . And there's many a worser place to have been born in than Belfast

What about Tandy's Eco-flo dye? The oil version says water and spirit based but the standard dye just says water based

Depends on your needs. For a decent V I use either a wood carvers V chisel and steel straight edge or one of these for handiness https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-V-Shape-Stitching-Groover-Skiving-Edge-Beveler-Leathercraft-Tool-Kit-DSB1/174402085855?hash=item289b2ca3df:g:li8AAOSwmtJXT-Ss Here there is a discussion about improving the Tandy V gouge https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/66381-problems-with-tandys-metal-v-gouge/?tab=comments#comment-433371 https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/45416-tandy-adjustable-v-gouge-problems/?tab=comments#comment-285311 You could use a stitch groover as well

yes, they do. I didn't like that so I use screw cups under them. eg a screw cup, I use ones that are similar in colour to the rhinestone cone, eg, silver with silver, brass plated with 'gold' coloured

Any glue that will be strong enough to adhere the leather to the plastic surface is going to damage the plastic surface Try strong double-sided adhesive tape, industrial grade, not the cheap stuff in a hobby shop or stationers

unfair of me to leave it off where I did. A lot of the craftaids advise of tools which are no longer available. You'll need to use the nearest look-alike tool This is a useful conversion chart for which newer tools 'replaced' the older tools Craftool Conversion Chart.pdf Other than the advised tools you may find it handy to have a few or the regularly used types. Even some of these are now discontinued by Tandy. They seem to be really cutting down on availability of these tools. But you can find them thru the likes of ebay or from Le Prevo in England. eg, A series backgrounders, A104, A105 & A114 The bevellers; smooth, B197, B935, lined, B202 L & R, Camouflage; C425, C433 Seeder; S706, S932 Mulefoot; U851, U859 Pear shaders; P233, P703, P213 Veiner; V406, V708 Flower centre; J520, J615 These are just some of my suggestions. Others on this forum with much greater experience will have very different suggestions

1. buy a craftool craftaid plastic template you like. They have a sheet included which advises which tools to use for which areas. you can get them with belt-only patterns or for bill-fold wallets or there are some for both. the bill-fold wallet templates can be used on anything, eg a notebook cover 2. then buy the stamping tools which are recommended. just to set out and buy tooling stamps will-nilly you may end up with one you may never use. 3. buy a swivel knife. you'll need that for any tooling anyways 4. Tandy stamps are well ok. later, if you want, you can gradually replace any you are not happy with.

1. on Tandy tools. I bought some of their fancy hole punches, eg the rotary pliers type with interchangeable punches and the one with a pointy thingy and a disc to make small holes (and other tools). Both are the best punches I've owned. Previously I'd used other makes, expensive ones and after a short time they were scrap, but not the Tandy ones. Last year I stocked up on Tandy tooling / carving stamps. The ones I got are just grand. I don't do much tooling so they suit me just fine. I did buy some more expensive stamps from a certain maker. Sent them all back for a refund as they all had bent handles and on some the end piece was brazed on at an angle. 2. I have that multiple mini punch set that Spyros shows. I use it with my press. Its brilliant for my sort of stuff. I've also bought (2 off now) a set of larger circular stamps of this type. I needed certain sizes of oval so two of the circles were squeezed to make them 3. my regular hole punches are separated into blocks of sizes and lay in plastic boxes in one of my tool chests. The tooling stamps are all held in these blocks meant for paintbrushes. I had to drill out some of the lager holes for the larger diameter bars on some stamps

mind out there are two types of Evo; instant and time bond. I've found that the time bond can be affected by water over time and joints separate. If not used properly even the instant type will be affected by water, too much too often and joints will separate. After gluing up, the edge of the glued section needs a good sealing with beeswax to prevent ingress of water into the leather. If water gets to that leather, it loosens the fibres and they can pull away.

use as large as you can possibly use. Also use ones rated N50 or N52, they are currently the strongest. But even these struggle to hold thru 2mm of leather over them. Skive the part over the magnet down to about 1 mm thickness. And if using two magnets, mind your polarity. Nowt so annoying to find the magnets repulse each other after you've sewn it all up! I reckon, it'll be ok for one end of the belt loop to be held by magnets, for quickly removing the holster, but no way would I trust both ends of the belt loop being held by magnets

The faux fleece has a heavy woven fabric backing base, not coarse like hessian, but a wide weave of cotton. I would sew two pieces good side to good side, turn inside out and either leave like that or fill with a cheap duvet from Home Bargains or not fill at all. Hand or gentle wash this fleece only. I found an auto washing machine was too rough on it. Y'all are being too soft on your dogs, When I had mine, when I had a small holding, they each had a wood box like a big drawer. Dunno where those came from. We used to buy recycled cotton rags for various uses. A clean batch was dumped into the dog's boxes and they sorted it all for themselves, pushing it around with their noses, walking in circles to get it right then burying their toys in the rags. Old bedding was put on the regular bonfire and burnt. As all the dogs lived outside, under covered areas, they got an old duvet thrown on top over winter. I used to get the duvets from a charity shop, they weren't allowed to sell them for people to use again.

and on that what about faux fleece? eg, £10.75 for 1.5 sq meters, about 15 sq feet, but I've seen much cheaper, about £4.50 sq yd. I used to use a lot of this faux fleece on medieval type kit. It wears well and is easier to wash than the real stuff. I attached it, some times, with velcro and then it could be detached and hand-washed. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Faux-Fur-SHERPA-FLEECE-Sheepskin-Fabric-Material-K8/322076904990?hash=item4afd478e1e:g:iJQAAOSw95lXEj8C edit to add, just remembered, the damp barrier usually comes in really big rolls. Maybe too much for you. Suggestion, go round to where new houses are being built and scrounge some of the roll ends. Builders need to put the sheet down in one piece, no cuts or joins, and they often have odd pieces they can't use. At most it might cost you just a few ££ or beers. 30 years ago I was buying the rolls, about 30m x 6m, for £25.

What about the heavy weight plastic sheeting builders use as a damp course barrier betwixt foundations and walls/floors? Its fairly inexpensive and very robust. I used to use it in and around my chicken & hen coops and other animal places. I used it to line a big duck pond nearly 30 years ago and even though I've moved on that pond and its liner is still in use.

If I may make some remarks. Firstly, my experience of plating is via automobiles 1. There are chrome platers and chrome platers. That is, some platers are used to heavy duty plating and just plate over what you give them. Others measure the thickness of the original and then remove the old before re-plating 2. If your part was originally plated then it can be re-plated, to the same thickness by a good quality plater 3. for a part that was never plated cadmium coating is an alternative as it only puts a layer microns thick on the part, not enough to interfere with its fitting.

Do you mean bevelling the edge? To get into the corner I use a no.11 scalpel blade very carefully, or even a razor blade held in my fingers, just whichever is laying handy on the work bench

Welcome to the interesting world of leather Nice selection of items. Not badly done either.