fredk

I noticed some time ago, just a few years ago maybe, that my Resolene was not sealing dye. I think the makers might have changed it at some point 20 years ago when I first used Resolene one coat would seal dye, two coats were good for resist on my game boards. Then, a couple of years ago, I noticed that my newer batch of Resolene wasn't doing the job of sealing red dye no matter how many coats I put on or how it was put on so in desperation to get some 'coffee cup cuffs' sealed I grabbed my local version of 'Mop & Glo' which I'd been using as a varnish on wood, antler handles et cetera and found it worked wonderfully well. Its now my main 'go to' sealer. Its also a lot cheaper at £1 for 750 ml of 'Astonish Floor Polish' as it is called compared to £6.70 (+ s&h )for 120ml

That is interesting. I wonder if it has anything to do with the amount of copper in the alloy. Last year a friend found two boxes of Mauser rifle cartridges. About 26 rounds total The boxes had been hidden in a dis-used chimney in a cottage. Papers with them indicated they had been put there about 1912. No verdigris on the shells, just dull tarnishing

A man is not complete until he's married then he's finished!

That shore is purdy.

A change in the title would be good

I'm now using a UK version of 'Mop & Glo' (name?). Its a floor 'polish' by Pledge. It is actually a water thin acrylic varnish. A couple of coats is usually sufficient

Thanks for the responses so far

I have about 3000 books covering many subjects. A lot of my books are in easily accessible storage in two places. My books have have their own postcodes A sewing machine book is on my ready-to buy list Tony Laier has a reputation on carving and tooling. As I do very, very little of that good instruction type books would be a nice addition to my library. Plus, if there are new decent books out there I'd like to know

I have just about all the AS books I want or need

I have a voucher to buy some books on Amazon so I thought I might some leatherwork books. I already have several book shelves full of many of the common and not so common books What are the collective's opinions on this book from Tony & Kay Laier? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1497203465/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1 or this one (not via Amazon tho) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/The-Leather-Craft-Handbook-by-Tony-and-Kay-Laier/353112101104 or suggestions for other books? I find that so many books have between 1/3rd and 2/3rd of the book devoted to tools and types of leather and so little about any work or of 'projects'. I have enough of those books. I want books which assume I know all that and just get right to the working

I would wash it out carefully using a dog / animal friendly shampoo. Shampoo for humans has additives which are not good for animal hair. Then hang it out to dry where there is plenty of air blowing and comb or brush it down as it dries

If at first you don't succeed, try again, . . . . then give up

There's a 'eck of a lot of double terminology in leatherwork. Not only in the tools. After over 20 years at this lark I still need to check what some people are talking about It all can have various reasons; regional names or terms, mis-naming long ago which is now accepted as correct, new names made up, misspelling of old names et cetera, et cetera - as Yul Byrnner once said

Ok. I voted. Always willing to back a leatherworker. Don't want a smelly candles maker or someone winning Very strange that there are no limits on who can vote or how often

So far I've only seen that set currently available in 19mm - 3/4 inch. It might be easier to down size your letter alphabet to match the numbers

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Which set do you call 'standard' ? a picture of some of them will help us

afair you can get edge creaser heads which fit into standard soldering irons which use replaceable tips

When I use 1 / 1.1mm thread I sew thru 0.8mm holes with a 1mm needle, but thats a punched hole which doesn't remove leather. On your holes I'd be using 1.5mm or even 2mm lace I'm sure it would be. I reckon Tandy's scouts' kits have been around since Baden-Powell's first scout troop

I'll come back to this, but in the meantime 1. those sewing holes look awfully big. can you reduce them, a lot? 2. how about some simple and cheap kits for scouts? I believe the scouts in the US are big on doing leatherwork. The only real competitor for you I know of who makes kits is Tandy and imo they really over-charge for what you get

This Its surprising what you can find. Often you can get leatherwork tools cheap cos the seller doesn't know what they are and for

One tool I'd advise getting is wing-dividers or the screw adjusted version. Most useful in my instances Your #5 - I hope you mean a skiving knife. A skinning knife is a very different tool and would not be much use to you Buy high quality hole punches, don't skimp on them. You'll also need a range of item such as files, whetstones etc for making sharp things sharp and keeping them that way

I'm the odd one out. I use one of those punches, have done for about 5 years now, with no problems. In fact I reckon they're one of the best I've ever had. Previous ones by other makers broke after a short time, even very expensive ones.

yeah, and it wants me to download somat. I don't download unknowns. If the OP can't be bothered to post photos on this site then I'm not going to chase